Tip & How-To about Televison & Video

Why do things just go "Phutt"?

When a unit faults, it will always give a Symptom, now, the Symptom is what the user is experiencing, and a symptom, is exactly that, a Symptom. Now, just like with people, there can be many, many, things that can bring about the same set of symptoms, say like fever, a fever can have any number of "Causes" from the Flu, to say Bubonic Plague... Well, just like our bodies, electronics are similar, insomuch, as The "Symptom", is only that, and the real "Cause" of the problem, is often far removed from the actual thing we experience with a failure. I have been doing this since the Valve or Tube days, and while the circuits have gotten more complex, the principles still remain the same. and as I have found, just about every problem even though they often present the exact same Symptoms, have completely differing "Causes". and repair strategies. Of course, there are indeed, "Faults" that we can go... "Oh that's the "hat-ya-may-call-it", on the "do-hicky", and you need to replace "IC Number 3". But, these are few and far between, and generally common knowledge in the Industry. This is why, how, us Engineers, earn our "Salt" as it were. I can tell you. it is NOT easy. People often ask me "Why" one day a seemingly, working unit, spontaneously fails. Well really the answer is simple, it is the electricity going through the unit, this electricity, is constantly "Stressing" all components, some more than others, every time you turn the unit ON, there is a phenomenon called "Inrush Current" now this "Inrush Current" can be Very High, and over time this, occurrence eventually destroys some components, as well all this all components get hot, it is a function, of it working. The Thermal stresses, caused by heating up & cooling down, will eventually destroy even the hardiest components, & some are more susceptible than others. Nearly all circuitry is interconnected to each other, and a problem in one area, will often cause a problem, seemingly unrelated in another. You see the thing that fixes most units, is Experience, gained from years of actually "Doing it" and as one goes on, patterns develop that will get you into the "Area" of the problem, where you then have to test Componentry, check the Voltages to find the problem. Sometimes even with years of experience, it is still un-fixable, and the cause unknown, for many reasons, often unavailability of parts. cost of parts In the "Old" days we were trained to design a Machine to last for at least 20 years useage, and design in a 40 year parts retention. However that simply is not practicable any more, and now production runs are done, with perhaps a 5 year lif cycle, and without any regard for "Spares" at all. As, the manufacturer doesn't want you to "Repair" the unit, they want you to "Replace" it or "Upgrade" to a newer model. As they see it, and maybe rightfully so, that when a unit is "Fixed" it is still a "Fixed" unit. Meaning, that once, a unit has failed, once, it has stressed, almost every other component, as well, and it WILL, in all likelihood, fail again, in the not too distant future. Not all, "Fixes" will have this result but enough to warrant the "Approach" taken, right or wrong. "They" are trying to give you the "Best Deal" which to "Their" mind, is a "New" unblemished, un-repaired, unit. (As an aside here often the units go "Faulty" before they even leave the factory, and are "Fixed" and put back into service, waste not want not?) So all in all, it is indeed a great achievement, with all things considered, that the units we all love and use so much, even go, and keep on going, at all. Now some "Repairers" use what we call a "Shotgun" approach, and that is to replace each and every component in the area they perceive the fault is. This often results in a seeming, "Fix". However IF the actual "Cause" is NOT found, then the "Symptom" will simply re-appear, as soon as those components that were replaced, break down. The proper approach, is to find the actual "Fault" and repair that, then repair any "Damage" done, that was "Caused" by said "Fault" this is the ONLY way, an effective, and long lasting repair can be made..

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The screen blinks, the picture is divided into line


With this symptom, it is impossible to tell what the exact "Cause" of this symptom is. The LED's do not tell us what is wrong, sometimes it may indicate the "Area" in your case it is the X board. BUT that's NOT where the "Fault is" that's just the part that is affected. T What is happening is that you have a fault in the set, that is potentially very bad, and the Power Supply senses this and attempts to shut it down, now when it shuts down, the fault clears momentarily, and so the PSU, again tries to power up, sense the fault and tries to shut down again, we call this a Hic-upping Power Supply, and is often the symptom of a much larger underling problem. These days unlike the "Old" analogue days it just isn't realistically possible to fix anything but the most basic of problems with today's sophisticated units. This is quite apart from the Safety aspect, any unit that can cause a firs or have an explosion, or both, is NOT to be treated lightly, and and the repairer, of the unit is legally responsible, another thing to think about. Also, one must have tools, a Multimeter, a soldering iron, a deslodering iron, an oscilloscope, a signal tracer, tools, and most important of all, a Service Manual, without which, there is no way to even begin to understand and fix it, and more importantly Program it, AFTER it has been fixed. As these days a TV, is a PC, a Tuner, and an HDTV Monitor, and more, all in one. in the "old" days TV"s were more, rudimentary, and built to last for 20 years, and a "Parts" supply was set aside. They usually used to fail for only a few reasons, and they while still difficult, were less difficult to repair. Electrical knowledge was transferable, and they could be and would respond to, This-is-the-symptom-This-us-the-Fix, But that no longer applies, as now, it can be a Fault on I squared Bus, or "Sensor" failure, or it simple may have "Crashed" just like a PC, It could be a Diode go bad, and that will stop the whole thing. You see, in the day, the sets were Very "Fault Tolerant" because they were Analogue, and a faulty, component, or more sometimes, the set would always display something usually, and when they didn't it was one of only a few things, sure there are always the horrid ones, and there are plenty of those, but all in all it was quite easy. But with Digital Electronics, it either goes, or it doesn't, there are usually few half measures. I mean that's the definition of logic either going or not. So it can take very little to completely paralyze a set, and generally give the only symptom, it can, by not working, usually No picture, or the like. So you, see the list is endless almost for any given SYMPTOM, as that is what is being seen, not the cause, as I keep going on about. Also any fault, usually involves the Power Supply, it is either the cause, the cause of the damage, or it is damaged. or ALL of them. Then after you have done the electronic repairs, you then must program the set to work, and align, and set up in general, any one of those settings missed or done wrong, back to square one. So, it is nearly always my professional opinion that one should always get a "Quote" form the manufacturers recommended service center, I cannot stress how important that last point is. It is even worth the cost of shipping. you see an authorised service agent, will have trained staff, trained on their brand, also they have first hand access to parts, original parts. This will actually save you money and ensure you can actually get it back fixed. Of course asking for a "Quote" also gives on the option of repair or replace. Often my clients,do not go through with repair, unless it is moderate, but in some of the more costly jobs they see it, as do i, that a replacement, with a warranty, is a better option. As an aside here, one could then tear the TV down, and sell the Known Good bits. You'd be surprised who needs parts, i myself often must by from third party sources to effect a repair. So money could be recouped, somewhat,and help out someone else


user manual below i was unable to find a service manual.http://www.retrevo.com/support/Sony-KDL-40EX401-TVs-manual/id/23628ag701/t/2/

Oct 23, 2011 | Sony KDL-40EX401 42" HDTV-Ready LCD TV

1 Answer

Lens error


I've got the answers...

Problem: Lens error.
Symptom: Lens will not extend upon power up.
Cause: Lens is impeded while trying to extend.
This is usually caused by one of two circumstances. (1) The user dropped the camera while the lens was extended causing a mechanical failure. (2) The lens attempts to extend while in a pouch or pocket without the user's knowledge. This usually happens when the user is carrying the camera with the battery in. When/if the REC button or power button is pressed accidentally, the lens will attempt to extend but can't. This causes the main drive gears to be damaged.

Solution: Replace the main drive gear assembly. This should only be done by a qualified tech.
If you've experienced this you know exactly what I mean. This should clear up any notion that the "Lens Gods" have cursed you. Although this may have appeared to be a mystery, it's always caused by something!

Problem: Lens error.
Symptom: Lens extends, makes a few buzzing noises and retracts, resulting in "lens error" message.
Cause: This is caused by damage to the focus lens often by impact, or sand in the mechanism.
Solution:The focus lens gears either need to be replaced or the assembly completely rebuilt. Again, this should be done by a qualified tech. It's a very delicate process.

Problem: Aperture unit failure
Symptom: images appear to be washed out, over exposed and often have horizontal lines through them.
Cause:The aperture unit is either stuck, damaged or not receiving the proper electrical signal to activate. The result is that the aperture remains open after the picture is taken and CCD is over exposed.
Solution:Completely rebuild the aperture unit, which requires complete lens dis-assembly and rebuild. Again, this should be done by a qualified tech. It's a VERY delicate process.


Additional details in THIS LINK.

Hope this helps.

Apr 27, 2011 | Casio Exilim EXZ75 Digital Camera

1 Answer

although the volume reaches to 100 , i can hear a so weak voice near the speakers in some channels and a better voice in other channels but anyway the volume degree is not the usual i have tried using the service mode but i cannot find the item,where it relates to that i am an electrical power engineer, and hope if you can help me


Hi good_eng_ale,
This symptom needs to check with an experienced technician because the fault is either the following :
1. IF transformer - mis-aligned Sound IF transformer will produced weak sound, this will happened when the unit aged.
2. Coupling Capacitor- once dried or leaky, the same symptom will produced.
3. Faulty Sound Ouput IC.
Thanks for using Fixya.

Mar 08, 2011 | Toshiba Televison & Video

2 Answers

Sony UVW-1800 goes black on play


If you have sound and no Video , then you need to clean Head it is dirty.
you can use head cleaner for VCR or try alcohol on a thin piece of paper,put alcohol and clean heads in a back and forth motion all the way around the head .Do not clean in a up and down motion.

Apr 14, 2010 | Sony UVW1800 VCR

1 Answer

the gauge in my yamaha fz6 2006 is blinking, the manual says there is a electrical circuit problem. I check all the ligths nad fuses and they seem in order, what else could it be?


I believe you count the amount of blinks to read the codes. First blinks are first number, and second set of blinks are second number. Chaz Moto DC

Fault Code: 12
Symptom: No normal signals are received from the crankshaft position sensor.

Fault Code: 13

Symptom: Intake air pressure sensor-open or short circuit detected.
Fault Code: 14
Diagnostic Code: 03
Symptom: Faulty intake air pressure sensor pipe system
Fault Code: 15
Diagnostic Code: 01
Symptom: Throttle position sensor-open or short circuit detected.
Fault Code: 16
Diagnostic Code: 01
Symptom: A stuck throttle position sensor is detected.
Fault Code: 19
Diagnostic Code: 20
Symptom: Open circuit in the input line of ECU No4 terminal is detected when the start switch is pressed.
Fault Code: 21
Diagnostic Code: 06
Symptom: Coolant temperature sensor-open or short circuit detected.
Probable cause of malfunction: Open or short circuit in wiring harness.
Defective coolant temperature sensor.
Malfunction in ECU.
Improperly installed sensor.
Fault Code: 22
Diagnostic Code: 05
Symptom: Intake air temperature sensor-open or short circuit detected.
Probable cause of malfunction: Open or short circuit in wiring harness.
Defective intake temperature sensor.
Malfunction in ECU.
Improperly installed sensor.
Fault Code: 30
Diagnostic Code: 08
Symptom: The motorcycle has overturned. Probable cause of malfunction:
Overturned.
Malfunction in ECU.
Fault Code: 33
Diagnostic Code: 30
Symptom: Open circuit is detected in the primary lead of the ignition coil (# 1, #4).
Probable cause of malfunction: Open circuit in wiring harness.
Malfunction in ignition coil.
Malfunction in ECU.
Malfunction in a component of ignition cut-off circuit system.
Fault Code: 34
Diagnostic Code: 31
Symptom: Open circuit is detected in the primary lead of the ignition coil (# 2, #3).
Probable cause of malfunction: Open circuit in wiring harness.
Malfunction in ignition coil.
Malfunction in ECU.
Malfunction in a component of ignition cut-off circuit system.
Fault Code: 41
Diagnostic Code: 08
Symptom: Lean angle cut-off switch-open or short circuit detected.
Probable cause of malfunction: Open or short circuit in wiring harness.
Defective lean angle cut-off switch.
Malfunction in ECU.
Fault Code: 42
Diagnostic Code: 07, 21
Symptom: No normal signals are received from the speed sensor; or, an open or
short circuit is detected in the neutral switch.
Probable cause of malfunction: Open or short circuit in wiring harness.
Defective speed sensor.
Malfunction in vehicle speed sensor detected unit.
Defective neutral switch.
Malfunction in the engine side of the neutral switch.
Malfunction in ECU.
Fault Code: 43
Diagnostic Code: 09
Symptom: Supply power to the injector and fuel pump is not normal
Probable cause of malfunction: Open circuit in wiring harness. (red/blue line or blue/yellow line)
Malfunction in ECU.
Fault Code: 44
Diagnostic Code: 60
Symptom: An error is detected while reading or writing on EEPROM.
Probable cause of malfunction: Malfunction in ECU. (The CO adjustment value is not properly written on or read from the internal memory).
Fault Code: 46
Diagnostic Code: --
Symptom: Power supply to the FI system is not normal. Probable cause of malfunction:
Malfunction in "CHARGING SYSTEM".
Fault code: 50
Diagnostic Code: --
Symptom: Faulty ECU memory. When this malfunction is detected, the code
number might not appear on the meter.
Probable cause of malfunction: Malfunction in ECU. (The program and data are not
properly written on or read from the internal memory.)
Fault code: Er-1
Diagnostic Code: --
Symptom: No signals are received from the ECU.
Probable cause of malfunction: Open or short circuit in wiring sub lead.
Malfunction in meter.
Malfunction in ECU.
Fault code: Er-2
Diagnostic Code: --
Symptom: No signals are received from the ECU within the specified duration.
Probable cause of malfunction: Improper connection in wiring sub lead.
Malfunction in meter.
Malfunction in ECU.
Fault code: Er-3
Diagnostic Code: --
Symptom: Data from the ECU cannot be received correctly.
Probable cause of malfunction: Improper connection in wiring sub lead.
Malfunction in meter.
Malfunction in ECU.
Fault code: Er-4
Diagnostic Code: --
Symptom: Non-registered data has been received from the meter.
Probable cause of malfunction: Improper connection in wiring sub lead.
Malfunction in meter.
Malfunction in ECU.

Feb 23, 2010 | 2005 Yamaha FZ6

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