Tip for Profile Spectra JGBP90 Gas Kitchen Range

Replacing an Oven Igniter on a Gas Range

posted on Feb 18, 2008

jsrock516
jsrock516
Rank: Guru
Rating: 96%, 7182 votes

This advice is for GAS ovens with glow bar type igniters. This is a fairly simple repair that MOST do-it-yourselfers can accomplish with just a little guidance. But, first, here’s a little gas oven theory to help you better understand how to determine if an igniter is bad:

The way the ignition system in most of today’s ovens work is like this:

  1. Set the oven or broiler temperature.
  2. The igniter begins to glow.
  3. Once the igniter reaches a certain current potential, the gas safety valve opens.
  4. Gas is introduced into the manifold and you have ignition.
  5. NOTE: It can take roughly 30 – 90 seconds from the time you set your oven temp to the time it takes for the gas to ignite.

NOTE: This is a designed safety feature of the oven to prevent free flowing gas from accumulating in your home without ignition. That’s why you typically don’t hear any gas flowing when you have an igniter problem. You might think you have a gas problem when actually you have an ignition problem.

TWO BASIC IGNITER TYPES:

Carborundum (Cylindrical in shape) – needs to produce 2.5 to 3.0 amps for the gas safety valve to work.
Norton (Rectangular in shape) – needs to produce 3.2 to 3.7 amps for the gas safety valve to work.

NOTE: There is a UNIVERSAL FLAT BAR igniter on the market as well, that can be used as a substitute if the igniter type that came with your range is not available.

An easy way to determine if you may have an igniter problem is to check BOTH your oven features. If the oven doesn’t light, check the broiler and vice versa. Since both the BROIL manifold and BAKE manifold are fed from the same gas source, but have separate igniters, it’s an easy assumption to make that the igniter may be bad, if one or the other doesn’t light.

The igniter typically goes bad in one of two ways, the igniter either stops glowing completely, or becomes weak over time and doesn’t produce enough current to open the gas safety valve (in this case the igniter will still glow but the oven still won’t light). Longer ignition times can be another symptom of an igniter possibly going bad.

For this solution, however, we’re going to assume you have a bad igniter and need to replace it. Follows these steps:

NOTE: The same method applies to both the broiler and bake manifold.

  1. UNPLUG the range and turn the gas off if you have a local gas cut-out valve (it is recommended that you do).
  2. Open oven door and remove (if possible). Refer to your owner’s manual to see if there are instructions on how to remove the oven door. Some have spring-loaded locking hinges, while others just lift out. If you cannot figure out how to remove the oven door, use care not to lean on the door or put too much weight on it. A common complaint following any kind of oven maintenance is that the oven door doesn’t shut correctly any longer. This is usually caused by bending the hinges or springs coming loose.
  3. Remove the oven racks, and remove the oven pan. (There are usually two screws either in the back or front of the oven holding the pan in place).
  4. Remove the Flame Spreader. This is a metal plate on top of the manifold.
  5. The igniter will be mounted directly to the gas manifold. Follow the wires that lead to igniter. It will either be plugged into a connector, or be connected together with ceramic wire lugs. Your replacement igniter should come with extra ceramic wire lugs. In the event the plug does not match the one on your range, cut the wires and connect using the ceramic wire lugs. DO NOT use standard wire lugs, they are not heat resistant and will melt.
  6. Unplug the old igniter and remove the mounting screw holding it to the gas manifold.
  7. Install new igniter on gas manifold using care not to handle the element on the igniter with your hands. The oil from your hands can cause damage and/or premature failure. The igniter is also considered FRAGILE.
  8. Reconnect the wires using the recommendations mentioned in Step 5.
  9. Plug in the range, turn the gas valve back on and do a visual test by setting the oven temperature to the desired range. Allow 30 – 90 seconds for the igniter to light the gas. Turn oven off and allow sufficient time to cool. If the oven has only been lit for a minute or so, the cool down period will be brief.
  10. Reinstall the flame spreader, oven pan, and racks. Reinstall door if necessary.

Most igniters cost around $50. Prices will vary with models. I hope this information is helpful.

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Comments

- Nov 08, 2009

I am a wannabe do-it-yourselfer who usually ends up breaking something in the process of "fixing" whatever was originally wrong. These directions were so specific that I was sure I could do this one on my own. Lo and behold - I was right! Thanks so much for the guidance - I'm sure I saved a bundle.

My GE Profile JGS968 has the same igniter for the broiler and the oven, so I decided to do the switch both to confirm the problem, and to give myself oven use while I await the new part. The whole thing would have taken a half hour, except I ran into an annoying snag - there are two screws each attaching the the igniters to the burners, and all four of them stripped when I tried to remove them. I guess the threads from the screws fused with the threads on the burner assembly due to the proximity of all of that heat.

After a couple of hours of trying various ways to extricate the screws, I managed to get both igniters off their burners. Luckily I didn't break the "good" one, although the "bad" one shattered halfway through. So I was very glad to discover, after reattaching the broiler's igniter to the oven burner, that the diagnosis was correct - the now shattered igniter had been defective anyway.

So I have two questions:

1. This stove is about three years old - is that a reasonable amount of time for one of these things to last? Seems pretty short-liveed to me. . .

2. Was there some trick to getting those screws off that I should have tried, so as not to strip them?

Thanks. . .
- Aug 18, 2009

I'm an electronics tech but can't find info to exactly what is going on here.
But after reading here I think I'm starting to understand.
Correct me please if I'm wrong......
So, Ok, my Maytag propane range had intermittent problems
with the oven. The ignitor would sometimes glow and the ofen would light,
sometimes no glow and I'd have ti wiggle the wires and tap on the ignitor
to get it happy again. Guess I tapped too hard last night.
It still glows but I see a crack in it. So I figured it needed some help
'cause it wasn't getting hot enough, so I took a propane tourch and
heated the thing to white hot. Still no gas flow.
So, here's my theory....
Current runs through the gas valve AND the ignitor.
It's a series circuit and current is constant in a series circuit.
Think of the gas valve as having a very small resistance and the
ignitor having a much larger one.
The ignitor draws, say, 3 amps at 120 VAC (wall socket) and the gas valve needs
say 300 millivolts to turn on the gas.
That means the Ignitor's resistance must be 40 ohms (Resistance =volts/amps)
so then the gas valve's resistance must be .1 ohm to equal 300MV @120 VAC.
I presume the gas valve incorporates circuitry to get this done.
After all, 300 MV is quite insufficent to activate Any relay or solenoid I've ever encountered !
I guess also that the ignitor I sent for will solve my problems.
And that's why heating the **** outta the beat ignitor did no good.
If anything it actually decreased it's current draw !

Am I in the ballpark here ?




- May 30, 2009

I just changed the ignitor and it imiditaly glowed white on the top section and shot sparks. Bad igniter out of the box, or somthing else? Please advise.
- Mar 28, 2009

Wow! My oven wasn't even broken!!! I didn't realize the igniter had to heat up before the gas came in. Thanks for saving me the cost of a service call and however much they would have charged to 'fix' the problem.
- Feb 08, 2009

These steps are very helpful. I wish I had read them before I installed the new ignitor myself.

My question is on step 5. In my oven, the old wiring had connectors that plugged into two terminals. But instead of cutting the old wiring in the middle and joining it to the wires of the new ingnitor, using the ceramic wire lugs for protection, I actually broke the plastic casing that protected the connectors of the old ignitor because I thought I could attach the new wiring to these connectors. Turns out I can't, and so I just wrapped the new wiring tips around these connectors and plugged in the connectors to the terminals. The new ignitor works like a charm.

My problem is that the terminals and the tips of wiring that wrap around the connectors, and the connectors themselves are now unprotected from the heat and so I don't know if these wiring and terminals will melt.

Any suggestions as to how to protect this whole area?
- Feb 05, 2009

WOW -- This sounds exactly like my problem...and the instructions are great...although I am not a good do-it-my-selfer and gas is too risky so I will problably still call for professional repair. I almost bought a new overn...
- Dec 07, 2008

great step by step instructions,I would have had a repairman fix it but now all i have to do is replace the igniter.
- Nov 08, 2008

Just want to thank jsrock516 for excellent step by step procedure and advice.
Especially useful was the reminder to test before completely reassembling.
We did not notice that we had reassembled the manifold slightly offset to the incoming gas line. We were able to quickly catch that mistake when we tested.
It's a tough economic time for a builder so repairing our own oven on our own was a very nice cost-saving. Thank you!
- Apr 24, 2008

My GE RGB745 Oven Igniter died while its Broil Igniter still works.
I decided against a swap [so my oven would work while I await the part] as I see I MUST HAVE the "HiTemp" ceramic wire nuts [supplied with the part] when I re-do the factory connection.
Internet shopping will save a little on the part's awful cost = over 15% that of the stove itself - BUT DO NOTE that when even an "Excelent" firm says "ships 1 - 3 business days" they do mean 3 full days so you'll be without your oven for a week.
For me, keeping my repair cost to a total of $55 for this 2 year old stove is worth the delay.
My access to the wiring connections via the under-oven Pan Drawer is discribed in various places and is [even for this 70-year old] rather easy but I've not come across any description of how to get to the Connector-Ends of the Broil Igniter.

 

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