Tip & How-To about GE Profile Spectra JGBP90 Gas Kitchen Range

Replacing an Oven Igniter on a Gas Range

This advice is for GAS ovens with glow bar type igniters. This is a fairly simple repair that MOST do-it-yourselfers can accomplish with just a little guidance. But, first, here’s a little gas oven theory to help you better understand how to determine if an igniter is bad:

The way the ignition system in most of today’s ovens work is like this:

  1. Set the oven or broiler temperature.
  2. The igniter begins to glow.
  3. Once the igniter reaches a certain current potential, the gas safety valve opens.
  4. Gas is introduced into the manifold and you have ignition.
  5. NOTE: It can take roughly 30 – 90 seconds from the time you set your oven temp to the time it takes for the gas to ignite.

NOTE: This is a designed safety feature of the oven to prevent free flowing gas from accumulating in your home without ignition. That’s why you typically don’t hear any gas flowing when you have an igniter problem. You might think you have a gas problem when actually you have an ignition problem.

TWO BASIC IGNITER TYPES:

Carborundum (Cylindrical in shape) – needs to produce 2.5 to 3.0 amps for the gas safety valve to work.
Norton (Rectangular in shape) – needs to produce 3.2 to 3.7 amps for the gas safety valve to work.

NOTE: There is a UNIVERSAL FLAT BAR igniter on the market as well, that can be used as a substitute if the igniter type that came with your range is not available.

An easy way to determine if you may have an igniter problem is to check BOTH your oven features. If the oven doesn’t light, check the broiler and vice versa. Since both the BROIL manifold and BAKE manifold are fed from the same gas source, but have separate igniters, it’s an easy assumption to make that the igniter may be bad, if one or the other doesn’t light.

The igniter typically goes bad in one of two ways, the igniter either stops glowing completely, or becomes weak over time and doesn’t produce enough current to open the gas safety valve (in this case the igniter will still glow but the oven still won’t light). Longer ignition times can be another symptom of an igniter possibly going bad.

For this solution, however, we’re going to assume you have a bad igniter and need to replace it. Follows these steps:

NOTE: The same method applies to both the broiler and bake manifold.

  1. UNPLUG the range and turn the gas off if you have a local gas cut-out valve (it is recommended that you do).
  2. Open oven door and remove (if possible). Refer to your owner’s manual to see if there are instructions on how to remove the oven door. Some have spring-loaded locking hinges, while others just lift out. If you cannot figure out how to remove the oven door, use care not to lean on the door or put too much weight on it. A common complaint following any kind of oven maintenance is that the oven door doesn’t shut correctly any longer. This is usually caused by bending the hinges or springs coming loose.
  3. Remove the oven racks, and remove the oven pan. (There are usually two screws either in the back or front of the oven holding the pan in place).
  4. Remove the Flame Spreader. This is a metal plate on top of the manifold.
  5. The igniter will be mounted directly to the gas manifold. Follow the wires that lead to igniter. It will either be plugged into a connector, or be connected together with ceramic wire lugs. Your replacement igniter should come with extra ceramic wire lugs. In the event the plug does not match the one on your range, cut the wires and connect using the ceramic wire lugs. DO NOT use standard wire lugs, they are not heat resistant and will melt.
  6. Unplug the old igniter and remove the mounting screw holding it to the gas manifold.
  7. Install new igniter on gas manifold using care not to handle the element on the igniter with your hands. The oil from your hands can cause damage and/or premature failure. The igniter is also considered FRAGILE.
  8. Reconnect the wires using the recommendations mentioned in Step 5.
  9. Plug in the range, turn the gas valve back on and do a visual test by setting the oven temperature to the desired range. Allow 30 – 90 seconds for the igniter to light the gas. Turn oven off and allow sufficient time to cool. If the oven has only been lit for a minute or so, the cool down period will be brief.
  10. Reinstall the flame spreader, oven pan, and racks. Reinstall door if necessary.

Most igniters cost around $50. Prices will vary with models. I hope this information is helpful.

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Related Questions:

1 Answer

oven igniter will not spark


most oven igniters dont spark at all. they have "glow bars" that are connected to a gas safety valve. the bar will glow red hot and once it pulls enough amps it will tell the gas valve in the oven to open up and when the gas hits the hot glow bar it will ignite. the glow bar can still glow red and the valve wont open. it is still a bad glow bar because it's not drawing enough amps. if you replace this part yourself do not touch the actual "element" with you hands because it will cause it to break the first time you use it. you can only touch the base.

Mar 12, 2014 | Kitchen Ranges

1 Answer

Replacing an Oven Igniter on a Gas Range


Hi, MY name is Ben I have problem with my Kenmore (GE) gas range. the oven does not start up...I've replaced the igniter, but no luck. I measured the voltage across the the two wires at the inigter and their is 120v presesnt as the oven is turned on but goes aways in about 10 to 15 secs. Help! Also, how do I check if the thermostat is at fault or the gas valve is bad?

Dec 04, 2009 | Kitchen Ranges

1 Answer

KESC308LLSO Both of the left -side cooktop eyes won't turn on (the right-side work fine), and the broiler element won't turn on. Our home electrical box was struck by lightening and has been replaced. the lightening burned out a circuit board in our air handler. What has happened to our range? It is 7 years old. Is it worth repairing?


Hi,If the model range you have this listed under is correct, the problem more than likely is a bad igniter on the Bake manifold. Each manifold has its own igniter. Since the bake feature gets used more often it tends to wear out faster. The following link explains oven igniters and how to replace one:

This advice is for GAS ovens with glow bar type igniters. This is a fairly simple repair that MOST do-it-yourselfers can accomplish with just a little guidance. But, first, here?s a little gas oven theory to help you better understand how to determine if an igniter is bad:

The way the ignition system in most of today?s ovens work is like this:

Set the oven or broiler temperature.
The igniter begins to glow.
Once the igniter reaches a certain current potential, the gas safety valve opens.
Gas is introduced into the manifold and you have ignition.
NOTE: It can take roughly 30 ? 90 seconds from the time you set your oven temp to the time it takes for the gas to ignite.


NOTE: This is a designed safety feature of the oven to prevent free flowing gas from accumulating in your home without ignition. That?s why you typically don?t hear any gas flowing when you have an igniter problem. You might think you have a gas problem when actually you have an ignition problem.

TWO BASIC IGNITER TYPES:

Carborundum (Cylindrical in shape) ? needs to produce 2.5 to 3.0 amps for the gas safety valve to work.
Norton (Rectangular in shape) ? needs to produce 3.2 to 3.7 amps for the gas safety valve to work.

NOTE: There is a UNIVERSAL FLAT BAR igniter on the market as well, that can be used as a substitute if the igniter type that came with your range is not available.

An easy way to determine if you may have an igniter problem is to check BOTH your oven features. If the oven doesn?t light, check the broiler and vice versa. Since both the BROIL manifold and BAKE manifold are fed from the same gas source, but have separate igniters, it?s an easy assumption to make that the igniter may be bad, if one or the other doesn?t light.

The igniter typically goes bad in one of two ways, the igniter either stops glowing completely, or becomes weak over time and doesn?t produce enough current to open the gas safety valve (in this case the igniter will still glow but the oven still won?t light). Longer ignition times can be another symptom of an igniter possibly going bad.

For this solution, however, we?re going to assume you have a bad igniter and need to replace it. Follows these steps:

NOTE: The same method applies to both the broiler and bake manifold.

UNPLUG the range and turn the gas off if you have a local gas cut-out valve (it is recommended that you do).
Open oven door and remove (if possible). Refer to your owner?s manual to see if there are instructions on how to remove the oven door. Some have spring-loaded locking hinges, while others just lift out. If you cannot figure out how to remove the oven door, use care not to lean on the door or put too much weight on it. A common complaint following any kind of oven maintenance is that the oven door doesn?t shut correctly any longer. This is usually caused by bending the hinges or springs coming loose.
Remove the oven racks, and remove the oven pan. (There are usually two screws either in the back or front of the oven holding the pan in place).
Remove the Flame Spreader. This is a metal plate on top of the manifold.
The igniter will be mounted directly to the gas manifold. Follow the wires that lead to igniter. It will either be plugged into a connector, or be connected together with ceramic wire lugs. Your replacement igniter should come with extra ceramic wire lugs. In the event the plug does not match the one on your range, cut the wires and connect using the ceramic wire lugs. DO NOT use standard wire lugs, they are not heat resistant and will melt.
Unplug the old igniter and remove the mounting screw holding it to the gas manifold.
Install new igniter on gas manifold using care not to handle the element on the igniter with your hands. The oil from your hands can cause damage and/or premature failure. The igniter is also considered FRAGILE.
Reconnect the wires using the recommendations mentioned in Step 5.
Plug in the range, turn the gas valve back on and do a visual test by setting the oven temperature to the desired range. Allow 30 ? 90 seconds for the igniter to light the gas. Turn oven off and allow sufficient time to cool. If the oven has only been lit for a minute or so, the cool down period will be brief.
Reinstall the flame spreader, oven pan, and racks. Reinstall door if necessary.


Most igniters cost around $50. Prices will vary with models. I hope this information is helpful.




Good sources to find a replacement igniter include:

searspartsdirect.com*
appliancepartspros.com*
pcappliancerepair.com
repairclinic.com

All these sites offer great service with competitive pricing, so shop all of them for the best price.

* These two sites also provided excellent exploded view diagrams to assist in part identification and assembly.

If you have any questions about this repair, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.


Browse below to find the part or product that you need.:

http://www.apwagner.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=4_170&sort=20a&filter_id=10&alpha_filter_id=0

Jun 17, 2011 | KitchenAid KESC308LSS Electric Kitchen...

3 Answers

Bosch HGS442UC Gas Oven won't light


Usually when an oven won't bake, it's because the bake igniter is weak or burned out. The igniter is a small, round or rectangular device, that's about 1 inch by 4 to 8 inches. It's near the burner itself.

The burner is the tube-type device the gas flows through before it's ignited. It has many small holes on the sides to let the gas, when ignited, form a long, low flame. If the igniter is weak, if it glows red but doesn't get hot enough, or if it's burned out, the gas doesn't flow to the burner and the burner won't ignite. If this is the problem, you may need to replace either the igniter or the gas safety valve. Usually the igniter is to blame.

Other causes Other reasons that your oven may not bake are:

  • The clock settings are incorrect (if you have timed baking or a self-cleaning oven).

  • The thermostat is defective.

  • The safety valve that prevents accidental gas flow is defective.

  • The selector switch is defective.
if this helps please vote me a fix ya

Jul 18, 2008 | Bosch HGS442UC Gas Kitchen Range

1 Answer

Oven takes way too long to heat


This advice is for GAS ovens with glow bar type igniters. This is how to determine if the igniter is bad. This is a fairly simple repair that MOST do-it-yourselfers can accomplish with just a little guidance.

An igniter typically goes bad in one of two ways, the igniter either stops glowing completely, or becomes weak over time and doesn’t produce enough current to open the gas safety valve (in this case the igniter will still glow but the oven still won’t light). Longer ignition times can be another symptom of an igniter possibly going bad. An igniter should only take 30-90 seconds to ignite.

TWO BASIC IGNITER TYPES:
Carborundum (Cylindrical in shape) – needs to produce 2.5 to 3.0 amps for the gas safety valve to work.
Norton (Rectangular in shape) – needs to produce 3.2 to 3.7 amps for the gas safety valve to work.
NOTE: There is a UNIVERSAL FLAT BAR igniter on the market as well, that can be used as a substitute if the igniter type that came with your range is not available.
For this solution, however, we’re going to assume you have a bad igniter and need to replace it. Follows these steps:
NOTE: The same method applies to both the broiler and bake manifold.
  1. UNPLUG the range and turn the gas off if you have a local gas cut-out valve (it is recommended that you do).
  2. Open oven door and remove (if possible). Refer to your owner’s manual to see if there are instructions on how to remove the oven door. Some have spring-loaded locking hinges, while others just lift out. If you cannot figure out how to remove the oven door, use care not to lean on the door or put too much weight on it. A common complaint following any kind of oven maintenance is that the oven door doesn’t shut correctly any longer. This is usually caused by bending the hinges or springs coming loose.
  3. Remove the oven racks, and remove the oven pan. (There are usually two screws either in the back or front of the oven holding the pan in place).
  4. Remove the Flame Spreader. This is a metal plate on top of the manifold.
  5. The igniter will be mounted directly to the gas manifold. Follow the wires that lead to igniter. It will either be plugged into a connector, or be connected together with ceramic wire lugs. Your replacement igniter should come with extra ceramic wire lugs. In the event the plug does not match the one on your range, cut the wires and connect using the ceramic wire lugs. DO NOT use standard wire lugs, they are not heat resistant and will melt.
  6. Unplug the old igniter and remove the mounting screw holding it to the gas manifold.
  7. Install new igniter on gas manifold using care not to handle the element on the igniter with your hands. The oil from your hands can cause damage and/or premature failure. The igniter is also considered FRAGILE.
  8. Reconnect the wires using the recommendations mentioned in Step 5.
  9. Plug in the range, turn the gas valve back on and do a visual test by setting the oven temperature to the desired range. Allow 30 – 90 seconds for the igniter to light the gas. Turn oven off and allow sufficient time to cool. If the oven has only been lit for a minute or so, the cool down period will be brief.
  10. Reinstall the flame spreader, oven pan, and racks. Reinstall door if necessary.
Most igniters cost around $50. Prices will vary with models. I hope this information is helpful.

Mar 24, 2008 | Whirlpool SF315 Dual Fuel (Electric and...

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