Tip for MER6772 Gemini Electric Kitchen Range

Checking and Replacing an Oven Probe

posted on Feb 12, 2008

jsrock516
jsrock516
Rank: Guru
Rating: 96%, 6932 votes

As oven probes age, they can sometimes generate error codes on kitchen ranges and render them inoperative. The error code varies between models, but can be found with the technical documentation that comes with your range. Most manufacturers place a tech sheet somewhere along the back of the range, or inside the console for qualified technicians to use as a troubleshooting aid. Refer to this if an “F” code is displayed on your operator console. The probe may also exhibit other symptoms without generating an error code. You could have undesired heating results (too hot or too cold), or slow preheat times.

The location of the oven probe can vary on different models as well. It will be mounted on the back or side of the oven wall (usually in the upper right or upper left corner). If you suspect you have a bad oven probe, a resistance check can be performed to determine if the probe is good. To accomplish this, unplug the range and remove the back panel. There are still dangerous voltages present even when the oven is not on. There will be two heat insulated wires coming from the oven probe behind the oven. Disconnect the wires and perform a resistance reading across both wires at room temperature. If the probe is good, it should read around 1100-1200 ohms*. If the reading is too low (shorted) or too high (open), replace it. However, I would take a good look at the interconnecting wiring FIRST. If you have a connector plug on the oven probe, often the plug pins will oxidize and not make good contact. This gives false readings and can lead to erroneous error codes. Some manufacturers recommend cutting the connector plug off completely and hardwiring the leads together by using heat resistant ceramic wire lugs. This provides a more permanent and reliable connection. The lugs can be purchased at most hardware stores. A new oven probe roughly costs about $35 - $45 and can be found on line at several appliance parts websites. Higher end model prices may be more.

To replace the oven probe, simply remove the mounting screw from inside the oven cavity, disconnect the wires and pull the probe out. Insert the new probe by feeding the wires through the opening in the back of the oven first and out the back through the insulation (a long screwdriver can assist you in making a visible hole through the heat insulation to feed the wires easier). Once you have the wires through the back of the oven, reinsert the mounting screw and connect the wires leads together. Reinstall back panel.

*NOTE: Keep in mind resistance readings will be higher if the probe is hot. Make sure you check the temperature at room temperature.

I hope this information is helpful..

Comment by jsrock516, posted on May 05, 2008

Sorry Yankeenan,

I do not receive email notifications from my "Tips and Tricks" section, and only know if comments are left if I peruse through my list of postings. I'm hoping this is a format the website will take into consideration for improving. If you still need some advice, here it goes...

1. No...you don't have to tear the entire front of the stove off to get to the oven probe. Unless you have some new space-aged model stove, most stoves have an oven probe located along the back or side of the oven wall somewhere. Two screws hold it on place from the inside, while a connector plug exits through the oven wall to the back of the stove. You will need to remove the BACK of the stove to gain access to it. Nothing difficult about this at all. Just make sure the unit is UNPLUGGED and remove the back panel. It's an easy repair.

2. Oven probes are generally related to oven heating inconsistencies. I've never known a probe to cause a failed ignition. Of course, if the oven control is not working, you won't the oven won't work at all. Double check your symptoms and send a message to my profile by using the "Ask Me" button. This will ensure a much quicker response.

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- Apr 07, 2008

Verrrry interesting.

Chap. One. We had a serviceman at the house this morning because our GE Profile gas oven and broiler have been acting up, very unreliable as to whether they will turn on at all, or, if they do, whether they will take forever to heat up, Very inconsistent. We had the igniter replaced a couple of years ago (the stove is only four years old), and we assumed this was the same problem. The serviceman told us that the igniter looks brand new and he thinks it's the safety valve (which I read somewhere else rarely if ever goes bad). He has to order one.

Chap. Two. Just recently I noticed that the oven probe wasn't working - no response when I touch the control. We mentioned this to the serviceman and he just said, "Oh geez, to fix that you have to tear the whole front of the stove off." It sounded expensive, so we said forget it. But, your comments sounds like (1) the probe problem could be related to the oven/broiler heating problem, and (2) actually replacing it isn't that difficult (although confirming the problem sounds pretty daunting). Any advice? I really don't want to pay for a new safety valve if that's not the problem.
 

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