Tip & How-To about Washing Machines

Servicing a motor

- To access the motor, remove the back panel of the washer. The motor is mounted on an adjustable bracket.

- Test the protector with a VOM set to the RX1 scale. Disconnect one electrical lead wire to the protector and clip one probe of the VOM to each protector terminal. The meter should read zero. If the needle jumps higher, the protector is faulty and should be replaced. Pry up the protector with a screwdriver and replace it with a new one made specifically for the motor or washer. Connect the new protector the same way the old one was connected.


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the washing machine spin cycle does not get all the water out of the clothes, all other stages see to work ok, we have smelled something like burning wires, have taken the mechanism off the top of the washer and don't see any visible signs of burning wires or blackness, it all looks ok


The most likely causes for water not to drain is either a plugged drain system or faulty water pump.

Please look here to refer to what i'm talking about:
Servicing the Water Pump

Of all washing machine parts, the water pump probably takes the most punishment, because it is constantly in use. When the pump fails, you can hear or see the trouble: a loud rumbling inside the machine, or a failure of the water to drain out of the tub. Here's what you can do to fix the problem:


how-to-repair-a-washing-machine-4.jpg
©2006 Publications International, Ltd.
Take the pump apart and clean
away all debris inside the pump.
Also clear away debris from
the water tubes.

Step 1: Check the drain hoses to make sure they are draining properly. Remove the water supply hoses from the back of the washer. With long-nosed pliers, extract the filter screens from the valve ports in the washer or from the hoses themselves. Wash the screens thoroughly. Then replace them and reattach the hoses. If the machine still rumbles or doesn't drain, examine the pump.

Step 2: To access the pump, first bail and sponge out any water in the machine's tub. Then tip the washer over on its front, using a heavy blanket or pad to protect the washer's finish. Remove the back service panel. The pump is usually located along the bottom of the machine, but with the unit tipped on its front it's easier to remove the pump through the back than through the bottom of the washer.

Step 3: Locate the pump. It has two large hoses attached to it with spring or strap clips. If the clips are the spring type, pinch the ends of the clips together with pliers to release them, and slide the clips down the hoses. If the clips are the strap type, unscrew the metal collar to loosen the clamp. Disconnect the hoses by pulling them off the connections. If the hoses are kinked or crimped at these connections, straighten them as best you can and reconnect them. Then try the machine again to see if this kinking was causing the problem. If the machine still doesn't drain, you'll have to remove the water pump.

Step 4: To remove the pump, loosen the bolt that holds the drive belt taut and move the washer motor on the bracket to loosen the belt. Move the motor out of the way and unbolt the pump; it's usually held by two or three hex-head bolts located on the bottom of the pump housing. As you loosen the last mounting bolt, support the pump with your hand. Then lift the pump out of the washer.

Step 5: You should take the pump apart if you can, because the trouble could be lint, dirt, or pieces of cloth or paper clogging the pump impeller. Clean away all debris inside the pump and clear any debris out of the water tubes. Then reassemble the pump. Hook up the pump again and test it. If cleaning the pump doesn't put it back into working order, or if the pump housing can't be removed, replace the pump with a new one of the same kind.

Step 6: To install the new pump, set it into position and connect the mounting bolts to the pump housing. Move the motor back into position. Tighten the drive belt on the motor by prying it taut with a hammer handle or pry bar; it should give about 1/2 inch when you press on it at the center point between the two pulleys.

Step 7: Reconnect the hoses leading to the pump.

Replacing Drive Belts and Tightening Pulleys

The drive belt (or belts) of a washing machine may become worn or damaged, causing noisy operation or stopping the washer entirely. A damaged drive belt is easy to replace. Remove the back panel of the washer to gain access to the belt. To remove the belt:

Step 1: Loosen the bolt on the motor bracket and move the motor to put slack in the belt.

Step 2: Remove the old belt and stretch a new one into place on the pulleys.

Step 3: To put tension on the new belt, use a hammer handle or a short pry bar to push the motor into position while you tighten the bolt in the adjustable bracket. The belt should have about 1/2 inch deflection when you press on it at the center point, midway between the pulleys. If the belt is too loose, it will slip on the pulleys, causing the machine to malfunction. If the belt is too tight, it will wear very quickly and will probably become so hot that it will start to smoke or smell.

Loose pulleys can also cause problems. Most pulleys are fastened to shafts with setscrews around the hub of the pulley. These screws must be tight or else the pulley or belt will slip. The resulting malfunction may seem to be caused by a faulty motor, but it can be corrected by tightening the pulleys and adjusting the belt. For this reason, always check the belts and pulleys before working on the motor.

Servicing the Motor

In most cases, motor malfunctions should be handled by a professional; do not try to fix the motor yourself. If the motor is a universal motor, however, you can change worn carbon brushes when sparking occurs, as detailed in the how to repair appliances article. To save the expense of a service call, remove the motor from the washer and take it to a professional service person, then reinstall the repaired or new motor yourself. To access the motor, remove the back panel of the washer. The motor is mounted on an adjustable bracket.There is one other motor problem you can repair yourself. Washer motors usually have an overload protector clipped to the motor. When this component fails, the motor won't work. Before you take the motor in for service, test the protector with a VOM set to the RX1 scale. Disconnect one electrical lead wire to the protector and clip one probe of the VOM to each protector terminal. The meter should read zero. If the needle jumps higher, the protector is faulty and should be replaced. Pry up the protector with a screwdriver and replace it with a new one made specifically for the motor or washer. Connect the new protector the same way the old one was connected.

For more: go to: http://home.howstuffworks.com/how-to-repair-a-washing-machine6.htm




Sep 10, 2009 | Washing Machines

3 Answers

Replace bearing on washing machine


are you tech saavy..can you do it by yourself.

click here....to learn

Mar 21, 2008 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

starts and stops in 5 seconds


hello!
well,we start on minimum cases of washing machine not run due to switches and timer, washing machines run through elaborate cycles with multiple settings. The devices that control these cycles can occasionally fail. Here's how to repair some of the common switches and timers.
The lid switch on a washer often serves as a safety switch. If the switch is not working, or if the switch opening in the lid is clogged with detergent, the machine will not run. To check and repair the lid switch:

Step 1:
Unplug the machine. Clean out the lid switch port with a wood manicure stick or chopstick. Clean off any detergent buildup around the rim of the lid. Sometimes there's enough detergent encrusted on the metal to prevent the lid from closing tightly and keep the washer from operating.

Step 2:
If cleaning doesn't help, remove the top of the cabinet to get at the switch. With the switch exposed, check the screws for looseness. Loose screws can cause the switch to move when the lid is closed or as the machine goes through its cycles. Check the terminals of the switch to make sure they're tight. Tighten the mounting screws after the switch is in alignment.

Step 3:
Test the switch with a VOM set to the RX1 scale; procedures for using the VOM are detailed here. Disconnect the power leads to the switch terminals and clip one probe of the VOM to each terminal. Close the lid of the washer. If the meter reads zero, the switch is working. If not, the switch is faulty and should be replaced.

Step 4:
If necessary, replace the lid switch with a new one of the same type. Connect the new switch in exactly the same way the old one was connected.

Step 5:
If the switch still doesn't work, it is probably misaligned. Realign the switch by repositioning the screws holding it in place, testing the switch as you go until it works properly.

if still malfunction the most common problem
on motor defective is when over loaded on task,of course there is a relay for protection on motor.
age doesn't matter motor can run at 40 years and more,somehow if has an overload protection relay or ovelroad thermal relay,if you can see a level for reset the motor push to reset.
In most cases, motor malfunctions should be handled by a professional; do not try to fix the motor yourself. If the motor is a universal motor, however, you can change worn carbon brushes when sparking occurs, To save the expense of a service call, remove the motor from the washer and take it to a professional service person, then reinstall the repaired or new motor yourself. To access the motor, remove the back panel of the washer. The motor is mounted on an adjustable bracket.

There is one other motor problem you can repair yourself. Washer motors usually have an overload protector clipped to the motor. When this component fails, the motor won't work. Before you take the motor in for service, test the protector with a VOM set to the RX1 scale. Disconnect one electrical lead wire to the protector and clip one probe of the VOM to each protector terminal. The meter should read zero. If the needle jumps higher, the protector is faulty and should be replaced. Pry up the protector with a screwdriver and replace it with a new one made specifically for the motor or washer. Connect the new protector the same way the old one was connected.
have a nice day,dont forget to rate me if your satisfied to my solution,thank's a lot

Apr 30, 2009 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

i have a ld850sa03 washing machine that only agitates in one direction maybe gearbox failure,if so where do i get one,can you help


hi In most cases, motor malfunctions should be handled by a professional; do not try to fix the motor yourself. If the motor is a universal motor, however, you can change worn carbon brushes when sparking occurs, as detailed in the how to repair appliances article. To save the expense of a service call, remove the motor from the washer and take it to a professional service person, then reinstall the repaired or new motor yourself. To access the motor, remove the back panel of the washer. The motor is mounted on an adjustable bracket.
There is one other motor problem you can repair yourself. Washer motors usually have an overload protector clipped to the motor. When this component fails, the motor won't work. Before you take the motor in for service, test the protector with a VOM set to the RX1 scale. Disconnect one electrical lead wire to the protector and clip one probe of the VOM to each protector terminal. The meter should read zero. If the needle jumps higher, the protector is faulty and should be replaced. Pry up the protector with a screwdriver and replace it with a new one made specifically for the motor or washer. Connect the new protector the same way the old one was connected.it is not gear box.............

Sep 13, 2008 | Westinghouse Washing Machines

1 Answer

Neff W4380X1 -drum does not turn


hi Of all washing machine parts, the water pump probably takes the most punishment, because it is constantly in use. When the pump fails, you can hear or see the trouble: a loud rumbling inside the machine, or a failure of the water to drain out of the tub. In most cases, motor malfunctions should be handled by a professional; do not try to fix the motor yourself. If the motor is a universal motor, however, you can change worn carbon brushes when sparking occurs, as detailed in the how to repair appliances article. To save the expense of a service call, remove the motor from the washer and take it to a professional service person, then reinstall the repaired or new motor yourself. To access the motor, remove the back panel of the washer. The motor is mounted on an adjustable bracket.


There is one other motor problem you can repair yourself. Washer motors usually have an overload protector clipped to the motor. When this component fails, the motor won't work. Before you take the motor in for service, test the protector with a VOM set to the RX1 scale. Disconnect one electrical lead wire to the protector and clip one probe of the VOM to each protector terminal. The meter should read zero. If the needle jumps higher, the protector is faulty and should be replaced. Pry up the protector with a screwdriver and replace it with a new one made specifically for the motor or washer. Connect the new protector the same way the old one was connected.

Sep 13, 2008 | Neff W4380X1 Front Load Washer

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