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Maytag Washer Squeaking Problem


jsrock516
By Guru jsrock516
Rank: Guru
Rating: 96%, 6705 votes
posted on Feb 09, 2008
Very Helpful

This advice is for certain Maytag TOP LOADING washers equipped with a vertical transmission and drive belt system.

Loud squeaking noises during the wash cycle or, at the end of the spin cycle, can be attributed to a worn snubber ring and/or brake assembly. The snubber is a plastic ring located under the tub support. It helps to reduce vibration as the tub agitates and spins. You cannot lubricate the snubber to get rid of the noise. In fact, you may damage the washer if you do. A small amount of corn starch can be sprinkled under the bottom tub support where the snubber ring is located to get rid of some noise related problems (this will be the round metal plate where the tub support meets the bottom casing of the machine). A worn snubber will also cause some vibration or out of balance problems. The brake tends to glaze over after it has become worn and will squeak or cause sudden jerking of the washer when the spin cycle stops. If the corn starch tip does not get rid of the squeaks, I would recommend replacing the following parts:

Brake Stator
Brake Rotor and Lining
Snubber:


You will need: Brake Removal Kit*

*Brake removal tool is required in order to remove the brake assembly and/or to replace the snubber. There is a 200lbs brake spring located under the Brake Stator that must be compressed PRIOR to removal or you could cause injury to yourself.

The parts required to make the repairs aren't very expensive, but the tool required to do it can cost about $100. This repair I would rate as DIFFICULT for the average do-it-yourselfer. If you've never worked on this type of washer before, this is not a job that I would recommend. However, Maytag DOES provide informative how-to instructions with all their parts.

To replace the snubber and brake assembly:

1. Remove the front case of the washer to access the washer interior.
2. Tilt the washer towards the back and remove the drive belt. Slide the drive motor towards the center pulley to relieve belt tension.
3. Remove the drive pulley by removing the center cap and retaining ring from the drive shaft. Remember how these components go back together. There should be a couple of plastic drive bearing pieces and some metal washers above the pulley on the shaft.
3. Lower washer and remove hoses from the wash tub.
4. Remove the suspension springs. NOTE: Pulling the wash tub towards the spring you are removing will release some of the tension on it.
5. I usually remove the entire wash tub with transmission still installed at this point and place it upside down outside the washer for ease of accessing everything. (There are other methods, but I find this one easier).
6. This is where the brake compression tool will be required to remove the brake rotor, stator and snubber ring. (Instructions come with the tool). Basically, it involves compressing the spring by turning the compression tool CW with a wrench, loosening all the bolts on the brake stator housing, and then slowly turning the compression tool CCW.
7. The brake compression tool is removed at this point and the snubber, brake rotor, brake stator and brake spring can be accessed.
8. Replace any worn parts, and reassemble the brake assembly. DO NOT forget to place the brake spring back in place before putting the brake rotor back on.
9. Place the tub assembly right side up and lower back into washer.
10. Reconnect all hoses back to wash tub.
11. Reinstall all tub suspension springs. NOTE: It’s easier to start in the back of the washer and work your way towards the front.
12. Tilt washer back and reinstall drive pulley. NOTE: When placing drive pulley back on shaft turn pulley slightly to ensure it is seated all the way on the shaft. NOTE: If the shaft had multiple metal washers, you may only need ONE after replacing the snubber ring. Retain the extra washer for later use if needed. If the drive pulley is reinstalled correctly, a groove will be visible at the end of the drive shaft for the retaining ring to go back in place.
13. Reinstall drive belt.

I hope you find these instructions helpful.



Comment by jsrock516, posted on Sep 11, 2008

NOTE: The following link lists the recommended tools to complete this repair:

Spring Removal Tool (item #455570)
Brake/Bearing/Seal Removal Tool Kit (item #997909)

http://www.repairclinic.com/SmartSearch/SmartSearch.aspx

Comment by jsrock516, posted on Sep 11, 2008

Just go to these fields and select the following:

Brand: Maytag
Appliance Type: Washing Machine
Part Type: Tool

The list of all Maytag tools will appear.

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Comment #1

posted on Sep 05, 2009

tlits
By Apprentice tlits
Rank: Apprentice
Rating: 0%, 0 votes

I'm having the same problem as Chuck. I have it all back together but I can't get the "C" ring into the groove on the shaft. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
TLITS

Comment #2

posted on Apr 27, 2009

cerescobra
By Apprentice cerescobra
Rank: Apprentice
Rating: 0%, 0 votes

Thanks for the detailed instructions. I've just done this repair and after assembling everything there is a problem with the retaining clip and thrust washer. I've pulled the shaft down to eliminate endplay, but there is just room for the clip to be assembled without any thrust washers. If I add a thrust washer the groove disappears and I cannot get the clip engaged on the shaft. I've reconfirmed that I didn't add any washers, etc. in the assembly that would take up this space. Any suggestions?

Thanks,

Chuck

Comment #3

posted on Dec 20, 2008

rrdumas53
By Apprentice rrdumas53
Rank: Apprentice
Rating: 0%, 0 votes

Thanks for taking time to write up these instructions. I followed them except for using the brake compression tool. To save a few extra dollars, I removed the 6 10-24 machine bolts, that hold the brake stator housing, one at a time and replaced them with 10-24 x 2" machine bolts. Once all the original bolts were removed, I backed out the 2" machine bolts evenly, keeping the brake stator housing aligned but slowly releasing the pressure from the 200 lb spring.

After replacing the snubber ring, the break and the break stator housing, I again use the 2" long machine screws to pull the unit together. Once all assembled, I replaced the 2" bolts with the original 10-24 X 1/2" machine bolts. Job complete ...

It worked great ...

Again, thanks for your write-up. My wife is now happy that the washer is again quiet.

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