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Replacing a Motor Coupling on Kenmore Top Loaders
This advice is for Kenmore & Whirlpool TOP LOADING DIRECT DRIVE type washing machines. This is NOT for older models equipped with a wig-wag transmission that are BELT driven. Read the instructions thoroughly BEFORE attempting. This is a repair of MODERATE difficulty that can be accomplished easily if you follow the steps provided:
1. Unplug washing machine.
2. Remove console. This can be accomplished in one of two ways depending on which type of console you have.
a. If the console has removable end caps, the caps lift off by prying on the top from the back of the washer. The cap will pull off towards you as you are facing the unit from the front of the washer. There will be a screw under each end cap that you will need to remove.
b. If the console does not have removable end caps, you will need to slide a putty knife under the front corner of each side and push in while lifting up. There is a retaining clip under each side that has to be released.
3. Once the console has been released it will lift up and fold back over the back of the washer in its resting position. Use care not to stress the small plastic hinges that hold it on. They can break easily.
4. Under the console will be two large brass colored clips. Take a large flat blade screwdriver and place it in the groove of the clip on the washer top. With the screwdriver firmly in the groove, push away from you towards the back of the washer. This will release the clips.
5. Disconnect the lid switch connector plug. This is the white colored plug on the washer top under the console.
6. Remove the washer casing. Open the lid of the washer. Using one hand, grip under the front rim of the washer opening. Do not grab the wash tub, just the casing. Tilt the washer case from the back first towards you, slide forward slightly, and then lift up. The entire case comes off exposing the wash tub and components.
7. Remove the water pump. This is a small pump located in the front of the washer directly under the wash tub. It has two hoses leading to it. LEAVE THE DRAIN HOSES IN PLACE and remove the two retaining clips. The front of the clip pops off with a gentle pry of a screwdriver, while the back is in a keyed slot. Once released from the pump, turn the clip to remove from the slot. Pull the pump off the motor shaft and push it aside while leaving the hoses attached.
8. Remove the Drive Motor. Remove the electrical connection(s) first using care not to break any of the wires. Loosen the two 1/4" hex bolts that hold the Drive Motor retaining clips in place. Now, place one hand under the motor and lift gently while prying the top retaining clip with a screwdriver. This will release some of the tension on the clip and make it slightly easier to remove. (WARNING: the motor has some weight to it, so be prepared to support it when you release it). Once the top clip is released, the bottom one should come out fairly easy. The clips are similar to the ones that hold the water pump in place. They are inserted into a keyed slot and are slightly longer.
9. Once the Drive Motor has been removed, the Motor Coupling is directly behind it. There are two plastic three-pronged pieces with a rubber bushing connecting the two. One plastic piece is inserted on the Drive Motor shaft, while the other piece is inserted on the transmission shaft. You may have to use a screwdriver to remove the old pieces. Make sure you replace BOTH halves of the coupling even if one side appears good.
10. Insert new coupling by tapping one piece onto the transmission shaft with a hammer. Use a dowel or something solid to tap the center portion of the coupling until the opening of the coupling is flush with the shaft. DO NOT hit the prongs or they will break. Do the same for the Drive Motor. Make sure you place the coupling on the correct side of the motor. If you forget, remember that the electrical connections are on the RIGHT HAND SIDE of the motor and that the coupling goes on the REAR shaft of the motor.
11. Place the rubber bushing over the side of the coupler that is connected to the transmission. Rotate the bushing so one empty hole is facing up and the other two are facing down. Now, rotate the coupler on the motor so the prongs will line up with these holes. It's a little tricky trying to get them to line of sometimes. I usually place the lower retaining clip in its keyed slot so that it is resting on the floor. That way, when you get the motor in place, you can reach down while holding the motor up and snap the lower bracket in. You will still need to support the weight of the motor until you get the top bracket keyed into its slot and snapped back into place.
12. Reinstall electrical connector to the Drive Motor.
13. Reinstall Water pump. You may have to rotate the motor shaft slightly to get the slot on the water pump to line up correctly. Make sure you re-install retaining clips.
14. Re-install washer case. With the lid of the washer open, place grasp case under front rim and place it on the washer frame. While looking down through the washer lid opening, make sure the front lip of the case is placed UNDER the washer frame and rocked back onto the frame to ensure that the small cleats on the frame fit into the slotted grooves on the washer case base. If you do not get the case seated correctly it will rattle and vibrate while the washer is in operation.
15. Make the back of the washer fits into the washer casing on each side and reinsert the brass clips. Place the clip into the slot on the back of the washer first, and then forcefully push it into the opening on top of the washer. It will snap back into to place.
16. REINSTALL LID SWITCH CONNECTOR. It is easy to forget. If you do not reconnect it, the washer will not work correctly.
17. Reinstall console.
I know it seems like a lot, but it is an easy process if you take your time and follow the steps as written. A new motor coupling should cost less that than $20.
1. Unplug washing machine.
2. Remove console. This can be accomplished in one of two ways depending on which type of console you have.
a. If the console has removable end caps, the caps lift off by prying on the top from the back of the washer. The cap will pull off towards you as you are facing the unit from the front of the washer. There will be a screw under each end cap that you will need to remove.
b. If the console does not have removable end caps, you will need to slide a putty knife under the front corner of each side and push in while lifting up. There is a retaining clip under each side that has to be released.
3. Once the console has been released it will lift up and fold back over the back of the washer in its resting position. Use care not to stress the small plastic hinges that hold it on. They can break easily.
4. Under the console will be two large brass colored clips. Take a large flat blade screwdriver and place it in the groove of the clip on the washer top. With the screwdriver firmly in the groove, push away from you towards the back of the washer. This will release the clips.
5. Disconnect the lid switch connector plug. This is the white colored plug on the washer top under the console.
6. Remove the washer casing. Open the lid of the washer. Using one hand, grip under the front rim of the washer opening. Do not grab the wash tub, just the casing. Tilt the washer case from the back first towards you, slide forward slightly, and then lift up. The entire case comes off exposing the wash tub and components.
7. Remove the water pump. This is a small pump located in the front of the washer directly under the wash tub. It has two hoses leading to it. LEAVE THE DRAIN HOSES IN PLACE and remove the two retaining clips. The front of the clip pops off with a gentle pry of a screwdriver, while the back is in a keyed slot. Once released from the pump, turn the clip to remove from the slot. Pull the pump off the motor shaft and push it aside while leaving the hoses attached.
8. Remove the Drive Motor. Remove the electrical connection(s) first using care not to break any of the wires. Loosen the two 1/4" hex bolts that hold the Drive Motor retaining clips in place. Now, place one hand under the motor and lift gently while prying the top retaining clip with a screwdriver. This will release some of the tension on the clip and make it slightly easier to remove. (WARNING: the motor has some weight to it, so be prepared to support it when you release it). Once the top clip is released, the bottom one should come out fairly easy. The clips are similar to the ones that hold the water pump in place. They are inserted into a keyed slot and are slightly longer.
9. Once the Drive Motor has been removed, the Motor Coupling is directly behind it. There are two plastic three-pronged pieces with a rubber bushing connecting the two. One plastic piece is inserted on the Drive Motor shaft, while the other piece is inserted on the transmission shaft. You may have to use a screwdriver to remove the old pieces. Make sure you replace BOTH halves of the coupling even if one side appears good.
10. Insert new coupling by tapping one piece onto the transmission shaft with a hammer. Use a dowel or something solid to tap the center portion of the coupling until the opening of the coupling is flush with the shaft. DO NOT hit the prongs or they will break. Do the same for the Drive Motor. Make sure you place the coupling on the correct side of the motor. If you forget, remember that the electrical connections are on the RIGHT HAND SIDE of the motor and that the coupling goes on the REAR shaft of the motor.
11. Place the rubber bushing over the side of the coupler that is connected to the transmission. Rotate the bushing so one empty hole is facing up and the other two are facing down. Now, rotate the coupler on the motor so the prongs will line up with these holes. It's a little tricky trying to get them to line of sometimes. I usually place the lower retaining clip in its keyed slot so that it is resting on the floor. That way, when you get the motor in place, you can reach down while holding the motor up and snap the lower bracket in. You will still need to support the weight of the motor until you get the top bracket keyed into its slot and snapped back into place.
12. Reinstall electrical connector to the Drive Motor.
13. Reinstall Water pump. You may have to rotate the motor shaft slightly to get the slot on the water pump to line up correctly. Make sure you re-install retaining clips.
14. Re-install washer case. With the lid of the washer open, place grasp case under front rim and place it on the washer frame. While looking down through the washer lid opening, make sure the front lip of the case is placed UNDER the washer frame and rocked back onto the frame to ensure that the small cleats on the frame fit into the slotted grooves on the washer case base. If you do not get the case seated correctly it will rattle and vibrate while the washer is in operation.
15. Make the back of the washer fits into the washer casing on each side and reinsert the brass clips. Place the clip into the slot on the back of the washer first, and then forcefully push it into the opening on top of the washer. It will snap back into to place.
16. REINSTALL LID SWITCH CONNECTOR. It is easy to forget. If you do not reconnect it, the washer will not work correctly.
17. Reinstall console.
I know it seems like a lot, but it is an easy process if you take your time and follow the steps as written. A new motor coupling should cost less that than $20.
Comment by jsrock516, posted on Jul 31, 2008
If the motor coupling is broken a replacement can be found at searspartsdirect.com. Just type in your model number and the coupling can be found under the "Brake/Clutch/Gearcase/Motor/Pump" heading on the next page usually as item number 13. The part number is 285753A.
Yes
No
Comment #1
posted on Nov 18, 2009
I want to start by saying THANK YOU jsrock516 !!! I looked all over the internet for help to fix my washer. This was exactly how to fix this problem. After I read the instructions it only took me about 45 min (that was including the time to reread this as I went.). The part cost $12 + Tax. My washer is working like new again. Thank you.
Comment #4
posted on Oct 12, 2009
Wow! These instructions were amazing! I had my brother come over to help out, and he ended up following the instructions to a T. Once we got everything opened up, we saw the black sooty stuff indicating it was, in fact, the motor coupling. So, I went ahead and ordered it using the link provided, and it arrived within a week. My brother told me to call him back after it arrived, but I went ahead and tried putting it back together myself... and did! The only thing I struggled with at first was that I didn't read the part where you have to sort of tap the new motor coupling on because it's quite a tight fit. I just put it on and tried putting everything back together but couldn't get the straps to connect. So, I took it back off and tapped the coupling on further, and it went back together like a snap. And, I cleaned everything while I had it all apart, so it's shiny new. Works like a charm. Thank you so much for the $20 fix!
Comment by hyperlouise1, posted on Nov 22, 2009
Hi jsrock,
I'm back again. Unfortunately, I have had to go through this process two more times since I posted my thank you note back in October. My motor coupling keeps breaking. So, any ideas as to what would be causing that? Fortunately, I have your procedure down pat and it now takes me just 1/2 hour to replace it, but at $20 a pop, it's a pain (actually, usually only one side breaks, so I typically get two fixes out of the purchase of one replacement part). It seems to happen right after the washer fills up and starts agitating. Then, all of a sudden, I'll hear the loud noise it makes when it's no longer agitating.
Thanks so much!
hyperlouise1
Comment #5
posted on Oct 02, 2009
Thank you so much for this. My husband is working 12 hour days and can't be here to fix stuff so a neighbor did it and said it was wonderful having these instructions. Thanks a million!!! The part cost me $15 and maybe the cost of taking the neighbor out to dinner. Better than a home repair visit starting at $75 just for them to walk in the door!!!!!
Comment #8
posted on Aug 01, 2009
Nice instructions! The Lord bless you for your talent! This was a very satisfying project to complete. I wish I started with your posting. I started my struggle by trying to figure out how to take off the back panel....so I learned a few other things as well! Don't take off the back panel for this repair! You are wasting your time!
I still have an unusual rhythmic noise during the spin cycle while there is some water weight to the load. Let me know if you have any ideas. I will hunt around for what this could be. My wife said this was the first symptom she heard before the coupling broke.
I still have an unusual rhythmic noise during the spin cycle while there is some water weight to the load. Let me know if you have any ideas. I will hunt around for what this could be. My wife said this was the first symptom she heard before the coupling broke.
Comment #13
posted on Mar 24, 2009
This is a simple repair,you would think the manufacturer would make it easy to find this info,giving the customer confidence in the product and easy maintenence, But alas I could not even get the part number from sears web site with all model and other info.....THANKS for making it EASY.JOHN
Comment #14
posted on Mar 14, 2009
Just echoing the above comments. We were about to buy a new washer when I read the instructions. They were great, very exact. The job wasn't bad, little over an hour. Instead of $$$ for a washer I paid $20 for the connector. They had over 100 in stock, no waiting for parts.
The worse part was the washer case. Quite a bit of fiddling around at the end (10 minutes). One extra tip, put a 2x4 under the electric motor so the drop is not too far when you pull the engine off (makes connecting it back easier as well). All in All the contributor has given fantastic advice
Comment #15
posted on Jan 24, 2009
I just wanted to say thank you so much for your help. Before I found your article I was sure we were just going to have to buy a new washing machine but then I found your instructions and my husband and I decided to try it. IT WORKED PERFECTLY. I'm doing a load of laundry as we speak. Thanks so much for taking the time to give others this great advice and for saving me 400+ dollars on a new washing machine.
Brooke Fairchild
Brooke Fairchild
Comment #16
posted on Jan 02, 2009
This is great 1.5 hours beginning to end. TOughest part was getting the cabinet lined back up. Also, the hoses on my pump are very stiff, and did not move out easily. This instruction was very helpful.
For directions with pictures, go to http://www.sannerud.com/house/kenwash.html I used both, and was confident in my first washing machine repair, thanks!
For directions with pictures, go to http://www.sannerud.com/house/kenwash.html I used both, and was confident in my first washing machine repair, thanks!
Comment #17
posted on Oct 19, 2008
I can't believe I did it all by myself!! My biggest problem was getting one of the 1/4" hex bolts off, it wasn't screwed it straight so it was very difficult to get off, but I finally found my inner strength and got it out. Getting the 'cleat' flush also took a bit of work, but I used a little grease and started carefully tapping away and finally was able to get it flush. I got it all put back together, made sure everything was plugged back in and VOILA, it worked!!!!!! I am on my second load of laundry, about 10 more to go....after fixing my very own washing machine. This is my FIRST diy project involving anything mechanical and I really can't believe I did it!!
Thanks so much for your instructions and tips, couldn't have done it without them! I saved about $100 and have a huge sense of pride now!
Thanks so much for your instructions and tips, couldn't have done it without them! I saved about $100 and have a huge sense of pride now!
Comment #19
posted on Sep 17, 2008
Thank you for your speedy answer. My husband could have tackled it but we called the repairman anyway as I had a problem with my refrigerator that only he could fix. My husband was impressed with your knowledge and instructions that were easy to follow.He even showed the repairman who was impressed also. thank you and we will use your site again. Hopefully not too soon. Sherry Keeney
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