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Replacing a Lid Switch
This advice is for just about all Kenmore and Whirlpool model TOP LOADING washing machines. This is an easy repair that anyone with a little know-how and determination can perform.
First of all, unplug your washer. You will need to remove the console in order to get to the lid switch. The washer may have release tabs under the console at each front corner. Simply slide a putty knife straight in from the front at each corner and push in while lifting up. You should feel the release tabs push in and the console will pop up. If not equipped with this type of console, you may have a console that has removable end caps. They can be removed by gently prying up on the top of them from the rear on each side. You may have to use a small screwdriver for this. The caps should pop right off. Once removed, you will need to loosen a screw under each cap. Once you have the console loosened, carefully lift it up and lay it back over the rear panel of the washer in its resting position. Be careful not to damage the small plastic hinges that hold it in place. Now you will need to perform the following steps:
1. Under the console you will find the lid switch connector. Unplug the switch from the connector.
2. There will be two brass colored clips. You will need to remove these to remove the machine casing. Place a flat blade screwdriver straight down into the opening on top of the washer and into the groove of the clip. Push the screwdriver away from you while holding into the groove and the clip will release.
3. Open the lid of the washer and place your hand under the front rim of the opening (DO NOT grab the wash tub). Now pull the case from the frame by lifting from the back first.
You do not have to remove it all the way from the frame, just enough to gain access to the switch. All there is to the switch is a couple of screws holding it in and a ground wire. It's a pretty easy repair job. Some models will have the switch located on the right-hand side of the lid rim opening, while other models will have the switch located on the left-hand side near the lid hinge.
Once you've completed your switch installation, make sure you get the case back on the frame correctly by following these steps:
1. While looking down through the lid opening, place the front lip of the machine case UNDER the washer frame and start leaning it back onto the frame. There are four small cleats that must fit into four slots on the case or the washer will vibrate. Make sure the frame is seated properly, lean forward from the front of the washer, grasp both sides of the rear panel and pull towards the case. The rear panel should be seated and flush with the casing before inserting the retaining clips.
2. Insert the brass-colored clips into the slot on the washer rear panel first, and then push straight down into the opening on the top of the washer with some force. If you have the case seated correctly, the clips will snap back in.
3. Make sure you plug the connector from the console back into the lid switch receptacle BEFORE you reassemble the console. This is easy to forget.
Good Luck.
First of all, unplug your washer. You will need to remove the console in order to get to the lid switch. The washer may have release tabs under the console at each front corner. Simply slide a putty knife straight in from the front at each corner and push in while lifting up. You should feel the release tabs push in and the console will pop up. If not equipped with this type of console, you may have a console that has removable end caps. They can be removed by gently prying up on the top of them from the rear on each side. You may have to use a small screwdriver for this. The caps should pop right off. Once removed, you will need to loosen a screw under each cap. Once you have the console loosened, carefully lift it up and lay it back over the rear panel of the washer in its resting position. Be careful not to damage the small plastic hinges that hold it in place. Now you will need to perform the following steps:
1. Under the console you will find the lid switch connector. Unplug the switch from the connector.
2. There will be two brass colored clips. You will need to remove these to remove the machine casing. Place a flat blade screwdriver straight down into the opening on top of the washer and into the groove of the clip. Push the screwdriver away from you while holding into the groove and the clip will release.
3. Open the lid of the washer and place your hand under the front rim of the opening (DO NOT grab the wash tub). Now pull the case from the frame by lifting from the back first.
You do not have to remove it all the way from the frame, just enough to gain access to the switch. All there is to the switch is a couple of screws holding it in and a ground wire. It's a pretty easy repair job. Some models will have the switch located on the right-hand side of the lid rim opening, while other models will have the switch located on the left-hand side near the lid hinge.
Once you've completed your switch installation, make sure you get the case back on the frame correctly by following these steps:
1. While looking down through the lid opening, place the front lip of the machine case UNDER the washer frame and start leaning it back onto the frame. There are four small cleats that must fit into four slots on the case or the washer will vibrate. Make sure the frame is seated properly, lean forward from the front of the washer, grasp both sides of the rear panel and pull towards the case. The rear panel should be seated and flush with the casing before inserting the retaining clips.
2. Insert the brass-colored clips into the slot on the washer rear panel first, and then push straight down into the opening on the top of the washer with some force. If you have the case seated correctly, the clips will snap back in.
3. Make sure you plug the connector from the console back into the lid switch receptacle BEFORE you reassemble the console. This is easy to forget.
Good Luck.
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Comment #2
posted on Sep 19, 2009
Thank you!!! Great advice, the repair was estimated at $200 and thanks to you I did it for $20 (the price of part at Sears). In my case the although the new switch was right, the part of the switch that is pressed by the lid pin was different and wouldn't work, so I had to use that part from my old switch. Suggest that once you connect the wires you do a test, to make sure it is working as it should, then secure the rear panel.
Comment #3
posted on Sep 10, 2009
I cant thank you enough! I am 7 months pregnant with 2 young toddlers. Dont have time or money to have someone come fix my washer and my husband works close to 90 hours/week. My Kenmore washer is 6 years old and showed no signs of getting old. I took the model number to my local parts store, told them I needed a lid switch. They were looking at me like I was crazy with my big belly and two kids. Sure enough I now have a fixed washer!!! I am so proud of myself for getting it done, but couldnt have done it with out Fixya! Thank you, Thank you, Thank you!!!
Comment #6
posted on Aug 11, 2009
the two plastic holder for screws of the switch broke off, so the lid strike wont make contact with the switch anymore. the switch is working otherwise. if I push down the switch, the washer will work. Can I somehow make the switch always in the strike down position so that I wont need to buy a new switch and replace it?
Comment #8
posted on Aug 03, 2009
Hey, jsrock516, you are an absolute Godsend! Thank you SO much for this step-by-step solution to my problem! I'm an 89-pound female who today fixed my own washer with your instructions, and it's working perfectly! With the economy as bad as it is, a cut in my work hours, and barely being able to pay my rent, I am SO grateful to you! I never could have afforded $150 for professional repair service part/labor charges.
Comment #9
posted on Aug 01, 2009
this was great ! the moment i read:.... " Now...a washer that fills and doesn't do anything, or stops right after the wash cycle and then does not advance to the rinse cycle and drain is commonly caused by a lid switch malfunction " i took a look at the the little device that goes in when you close the lid ,it was not working... i pushed it in manually and the machine continued the cycle like magic !
Thank you so much !! and thanks to the internet :)
Thank you so much !! and thanks to the internet :)
Comment #12
posted on Jul 06, 2009
solved my problem. I have a Kenmore 70 series (model # 110.20722990). The washer would stop cold after the agitation cycle. No rising or draining. I replaced the lid switch just like advice above and it now works fine. Lid switch was about $30. Saved myself $130 service and labor fee.
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