Many times problems with your submersible well pump are electrical in nature.
If you are having problems with your submersible well pump than here are a few things that you need to check before dragging it to the surface.
- Check that you actually have power going down the well. If the wires are spliced at the well head, take a reading there and make sure that the problem is down in the well and not coming from the pressure switch to the well somewhere.
- Check for continuity through to the pump and back. The motor will give some resistance, but an open circuit means usually that a wire is broken or rubbed thru. Three wire pumps will have resistance reading between the legs on the inside of the control box lid. Two wire pumps will vary depending on the depth of the pump and the HP. of the pump.
- Take an amperage reading when trying to start the pump. A high reading for a short time will indicate a locked rotor condition. A no amp. reading may indicate a broken wire. A low amp. reading may indicate a low water condition. (dry well)
- If you are getting a normal amp. reading but are not building pressure you may have a hole in the pipe or the pump may be worn to the point that it cannot make enough pressure to get the water to the surface and also build enough pressure to satisfy the pressure switch setting.
By getting all this information before pulling your well pump you can get an idea of what to look for as you pull the pump. Always check the wires as you pull it to look for bad spots that may not be the problem… yet. A hole or crack in the well pipe can be very difficult to find.
The pump may need to be placed in a tub of water and run with the end cap to find the split in the pipe.
If the pump motor is pulling high amps., then the pump needs to be replaced. I always replace the whole unit, because the water in my area wears the pump to the point that once the motor goes the pump part is soon to follow.