Tip & How-To about Plumbing

Well Pressure Switch Adjustment Water Well Problems

If you have a water well to supply your water needs, then you also have a well pump is some form and a well pressure switch that controls the water well pump and the pressures that it turns on and off at. Making the adjustments to this switch can be confusing, I will try to take away some of the confusion for you. There are many types of well pressure switches made. I will describe the adjustment of the most common type of switch and you can possibly translate from there if you have a different type of well pump pressure switch.

  1. Turn off the power to the well pump before making any adjustments. The blue flash from the arc when you short out the power is scary and leaves you seeing stars for a time.
  2. Drain all of the water pressure from the system and check that you have air pressure in your well pump pressure tank. If you intend to set the cut in of the pump at 30 PSI then make sure there is 28 PSI in the air part of the tank. Always 2 PSI less than your cut in pressure.
  3. Start the pump, run water, and then observe the pressures as the pump starts and stops. Remove power when adjusting to avoid the blue flash…you are working in close proximity to the electrical contacts of the switch.
  4. To raise the cut in pressure turn the taller center nut down to increase the spring pressure. This will start the pump at a higher pressure. To lower the start pressure turn the nut up or counter clockwise.
  5. To change the differential pressure, the difference between the start and stop pressures, you need to adjust the smaller nut that is on the side of the pressure switch. Turning this nut down will increase the differential pressure and likewise turning this nut counter clockwise or up will lower the differential pressure.

This process can take some time, but it will be worth it to have your pump and water system operating efficiently. You also can set the well water pressures to your liking.
This is a basic guide to help you fine tune your water well pump and your well pump pressure tank, along with your water pump pressure switch, so that they all work together to give you a good stable supply of well water.
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3689163-water_problems_pump_problems

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3690698-pump_problems_water_tank

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3690937-pump_problems_pressure_switch

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3695577-jet_pump_jet_water_pump

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What do I do when the dishwasher is stuck on P2?


GENERAL INFO ERROR CODES PROBLEM PARTS SOLUTION E1 NOT ENOUGH WATER INLET VALVE CLEAN OR REPLACE E2 NOT DRAINING DRAIN PUMP KINKED HOSE--ADJUST HOSE TOO HIGH--ADJUST PUMP FAULTY--REPLACE E3 WATER TEMP TOO COOL THERMOSTAT STAT OPEN--REPLACE TIMER CONTACTS OPEN-- REPLACE HEATER OPEN--- REPLACE ABOVE FAULTS CAN ALSO CAUSE TIMER TO STALL(TIMER STOPS TO ALLOW HEATING OF WATER) TIMER WOULD STALL AT THE 2,5,7 AND 10 O'CLOCK POSITION E4 OVERFLOW SWITCH ACTIVATED CHECK FLOAT IS FREE CHECK LEVEL OF D/W SOAP- AMOUNT AND KIND WASHARM STUCK OR SPLIT E5 E6 & E7 TEMP SENSOR THERMOSTAT REPLACE ERROR CODES: DDW497W Problem Solution Error 1 Water supply is turned off Turn water supply on Detached / damaged pipe Replace / readjust pipe Low water pressure Requires min. 0.04Mpa water pressure Defective water fill valve Replace water fill valve Damaged or defective wiring Repair the wiring Defective pressure switch Replace pressure switch Heavy water usage elsewhere in home Use unit when water usage is at a minimum Defective electric control Replace electric control Error 2 Sump or filter is obstructed Clear the sump and filter Damaged/defective drain pump Repair or replace drain pump Drain hose is obstructed or detached Clear out/readjust drain hose/tighten clamps Defective pressure switch Replace pressure switch Damaged or defective wiring Repair the wiring Defective electric control Replace the electric control Error 3 Voltage is too low Minimum voltage of 198 V Damaged/ defective thermostat Replace the thermostat Damaged or defective wiring Repair the wiring NTC thermistor damaged/out of position Replace or readjust the thermistor Damaged/ defective heating element Replace the heating element Defective electric control Replace the electric control Error 4 Sump or filter is obstructed Clear the sump and filter Loose or damaged sump pump/drain pump Repair or replace sump pump/drain pump Drain hose is obstructed or detached Clear out/readjust drain hose/tighten clamps Defective pressure switch Replace pressure switch Loose heater element Tighten heater element mounting nuts Loose spray arm Tighten spray arm Damaged or defective wiring Repair the wiring Defective electric control Replace the electric control Defective Microswitch Replace microswitch Float- defective or not in the right position Reajust / replace float Error 5 Damaged/ defective power switch Replace power switch Damaged or defective wiring Repair the wiring Defective electric control Replace the electric control Error 6 NTC thermistor damaged/out of position Replace or readjust the thermistor Temperature is too low Temperature should be above -20? Damaged or defective wiring Repair the wiring Defective electric control Replace the electric control Error 7 NTC thermistor damaged/out of position Replace or readjust the thermistor Temperature is too high Temperature should be below 120? Damaged or defective wiring Repair the wiring Defective electric control Replace the electric contr

Nov 27, 2014 | Danby DDW611WLED

1 Answer

Error F-H scrolling?


F/H:
Condition
No water detected entering machine or Pressure switch trip not detected.

If there is water in the unit:

1. Verify Drain pump operation
2. Pressure Switch Hose is in good condition and properly connected to Tub and Pressure switch

Verify there is not a siphon problem
Verify wire harness connections to:Inlet Valves, Pressure Switch, Drain Pump, Flow Meter, and Central Control Unit (CCU)
Check all hoses for possible leaks
Verify pressure switch operation

Verify flow meter operation
Verify CCU operation

mainly caused by low water pressure into the water from the customers water supply, or clogged inlet water valve screens.

Make sure you don't have any duct tape or something around your drain pipe, it needs that air gap to prevent siphoning.

Oct 22, 2007 | Kenmore 44932 Front Load Washer

1 Answer

already took off pump & cleared out $12 in change but still will not pump all water out or spin out. can hear pump running but think the damage has already been done. would it be pump or pressure switch or something else?


If the washing machine won't fill up, make sure that the water supply valves are turned on. Next, make sure there are no kinks in the supply hoses that run from the supply valves to the washing machine. If nothing is obstructing the hoses, you may have another controls issue.

Several of the washing machine controls are also responsible for the washing machine not draining, continuing to fill or filling too slowly. If the washer doesn't want to drain or stop filling, the issue could be the pressure switch. When water enters the machine, water also fills a tube in the pressure switch. When the air pressure reaches a certain point, it triggers a switch that will stop the machine from filling. Locate this pressure switch on your machine and look for damage. If you have a multimeter, use it to find any electrical issues. If there is no reading, the pressure switch needs to be replaced.

Read more: Tips to Repair a Washing Machine ' eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/way_5435622_tips-repair-washing-machine.html#ixzz1C6BhALK0

Jan 25, 2011 | Frigidaire GLTF2940ES Front Load Washer

1 Answer

I have a square D pressure switch on my home well water system. I also have a Iron filter on the system. The problem I have is that when Iron remover is in it's backwash cycle at night and someone uses the water the pressure drops 10 psi below the cut-in setting shutting down the pump because of the M4 setting of the pressure switch. I realize the M4 form setting is to prevent the pump from working when there is no water in the well but I have never had this issue. I am confused as to what type or form number I need on the switch to keep it pumping when this pressure drop occurs, If someone could tell me it would be great.


I find it interesting that you never had this problem. Did something change, specifically on the backwash of the iron filter? Is is possible that there is lower restriction to backwash causing the lower pump pressure? Could you throttle the backwash flow to allow pressure to be maintained and still get adequate backwashing?
It seems a lot of water must be flowing so that when you use some water the pressure drops to more than 10 psi below cut-in, that means typically 30 psi shutoff point.
Can you lower cut-in pressure, say 5 psi, lower?

Jan 05, 2011 | Square D 9013gsg2s22j99r Pressure Switch

2 Answers

WATERMILL SHOWER PUMP - On turning on the shower


This sounds like a problem with the flow switch(es) that control the operation of the pump motor.

When the pressure decreases I assume that the pump has switched itself off - check this before going any further, but I will assume that this is the case. (If the pump is still running when the pressure decreases then you have a really strange problem and I would need to think again).

The pump motor is controlled by flow switches on the outlet side of the pump - when the shower valve is opened the flow of water activates a switch that supplies power to the pump motor. There will be one flow switch on the hot outlet from the pump and another on the cold outlet.

I assume that one or both of the flow switches is not operating correctly. This can be either a fault with the switch(es) or insufficient water pressure on the inlet side. Has anything changed that might have reduced the pressure on the inlet side of the pump? Have you moved the water tank that supplies the pump? (cold water storage tank)

If there is adequate pressure on the inlet then one or both of the flow switches is not working correctly. To further diagnose the problem try turning the shower valve to cold water only and test the operation of the pump, then turn it to hottest and test again.

If the pump operates correctly on cold only or hot only then the associated flow switch is OK, and the other one is faulty.

Replacing a flow switch is not difficult if you are reasonably handy, and I am happy to provide further help if you need it.

Feb 27, 2010 | Kitchen Appliances - Others

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