Tip & How-To about Plumbing

Well Pump Problems The Well Pressure Switch

If you have a water well pump then you also have a well pump pressure switch that controls the well pump. This little device can be very confusing. It also is known by many names. These may include pressure switch, well pressure switch, well pump pressure switch, water well pressure switch, well tank pressure switch, and many other variations. All of them refer to the same part that controls the on and off function of the water well pump whether it is a submersible well pump, a deep well jet pump, or a shallow well jet pump.


Some the problems that are most common with the well pump pressure switch.

  1. The contacts burn out and fail to conduct the current through them to the well pump. If you see the contacts are very black or even not there then you definitely have to replace the pressure switch.
  2. The contacts weld together and keep the pump on continuously. Sometimes after getting worn and dirty the contacts on the well pressure switch will just stick right together and not release when the pressure builds and then the pump will not shut off. Even if you can release them with a screw driver, after turning the power off of coarse, they will just do it again, replace the pump switch.
  3. Dirt will sometimes plug up the little pipe nipple that goes down from the bottom of the well tank pressure switch and delay the action of the well pump. This can happen even on shallow or deep well pump that have the pressure switch mounted right on them or sense pressure through a small plastic tube. Take everything apart and clean out so that the water pressure to the pressure switch is accurate.

This should give you a basic guide to the common problems you may experience with your water well pressure switch.

Also note that some well pressure switches have a small lever on the side that will need to be held up for a minute or so to start the well pump. This is a low water cut off protection device that will keep the well pump off if it runs out of water in the well or if it loses prime for some reason. Hold the lever up part way for a bit till pressure starts to build in the well pump pressure tank and then it can be released.

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3695577-jet_pump_jet_water_pump

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3691134-pressure_switch_adjustment_water

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3690698-pump_problems_water_tank

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3689163-water_problems_pump_problems

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What do I do when the dishwasher is stuck on P2?


GENERAL INFO ERROR CODES PROBLEM PARTS SOLUTION E1 NOT ENOUGH WATER INLET VALVE CLEAN OR REPLACE E2 NOT DRAINING DRAIN PUMP KINKED HOSE--ADJUST HOSE TOO HIGH--ADJUST PUMP FAULTY--REPLACE E3 WATER TEMP TOO COOL THERMOSTAT STAT OPEN--REPLACE TIMER CONTACTS OPEN-- REPLACE HEATER OPEN--- REPLACE ABOVE FAULTS CAN ALSO CAUSE TIMER TO STALL(TIMER STOPS TO ALLOW HEATING OF WATER) TIMER WOULD STALL AT THE 2,5,7 AND 10 O'CLOCK POSITION E4 OVERFLOW SWITCH ACTIVATED CHECK FLOAT IS FREE CHECK LEVEL OF D/W SOAP- AMOUNT AND KIND WASHARM STUCK OR SPLIT E5 E6 & E7 TEMP SENSOR THERMOSTAT REPLACE ERROR CODES: DDW497W Problem Solution Error 1 Water supply is turned off Turn water supply on Detached / damaged pipe Replace / readjust pipe Low water pressure Requires min. 0.04Mpa water pressure Defective water fill valve Replace water fill valve Damaged or defective wiring Repair the wiring Defective pressure switch Replace pressure switch Heavy water usage elsewhere in home Use unit when water usage is at a minimum Defective electric control Replace electric control Error 2 Sump or filter is obstructed Clear the sump and filter Damaged/defective drain pump Repair or replace drain pump Drain hose is obstructed or detached Clear out/readjust drain hose/tighten clamps Defective pressure switch Replace pressure switch Damaged or defective wiring Repair the wiring Defective electric control Replace the electric control Error 3 Voltage is too low Minimum voltage of 198 V Damaged/ defective thermostat Replace the thermostat Damaged or defective wiring Repair the wiring NTC thermistor damaged/out of position Replace or readjust the thermistor Damaged/ defective heating element Replace the heating element Defective electric control Replace the electric control Error 4 Sump or filter is obstructed Clear the sump and filter Loose or damaged sump pump/drain pump Repair or replace sump pump/drain pump Drain hose is obstructed or detached Clear out/readjust drain hose/tighten clamps Defective pressure switch Replace pressure switch Loose heater element Tighten heater element mounting nuts Loose spray arm Tighten spray arm Damaged or defective wiring Repair the wiring Defective electric control Replace the electric control Defective Microswitch Replace microswitch Float- defective or not in the right position Reajust / replace float Error 5 Damaged/ defective power switch Replace power switch Damaged or defective wiring Repair the wiring Defective electric control Replace the electric control Error 6 NTC thermistor damaged/out of position Replace or readjust the thermistor Temperature is too low Temperature should be above -20? Damaged or defective wiring Repair the wiring Defective electric control Replace the electric control Error 7 NTC thermistor damaged/out of position Replace or readjust the thermistor Temperature is too high Temperature should be below 120? Damaged or defective wiring Repair the wiring Defective electric control Replace the electric contr

Nov 27, 2014 | Danby DDW611WLED

1 Answer

We have a well and our water pressure keeps changing, from very low, to blasting... irregular, no pattern


You could have two problems. The first and most likely is that the pressure tank does not have a high enough pre-charge or the diaphragm has a leak. The pressure tank acts like a shock absorber for the well pump and pressure switch. When the water pressure drops the switch turns the well pump on. The pump runs until the pressure switch stops the pump. As the water pressure builds it pushes up on the diaphragm inside the pressure tank. If the pre-charge pressure is too low the system cycles less but the pressure fluctuates more. To fix this, the tank will have a valve on top that looks like a tire air valve. The tank pre-charge should be 30-35 psi. If your pressure switch is working properly, when the pump builds up the pressure about 15-20 psi more, the switch shuts the pump off. The pre-charge above the diaphragm pushes down and forces the water out to the tap.
If the pressure switch is set incorrectly the fluctuation may produce similar results. The pressure switch should be set to deliver adequate pressure and according to the well pumps working limits. Depending on the how far up the water has to be elevated to reach the highest shower head the more pressure is needed. The pressure switch has electrical contacts that could be burned and not releasing to stop the pump correctly. This should be checked by qualified service technician. Electricity and water don't play well together, add in a little carless good intent and you could have worse problems.
Get out the pressure gage and check the pre-charge, add air with a bike pump or a regulated compressor. If water spurts out of the air valve, the diaphragm has a leak. If the pressure is not the problem, call for service. This video has all the info you may need.
Components Of Typical Well Water System

May 22, 2014 | Plumbing

1 Answer

washing machine constantly fills


The pressure switch, also called the water level switch, is what control the amount of water goes in the machine, If your machine is constantly filling to the overflow point, then that is your problem. Now, if water is going in and the level is staying the same then your machine drain line is lower than the pump and your siphoning out the water as it goes in. Pull the drain up a little a that should fix the problem.

May 08, 2012 | Whirlpool Clothes Washer Water Level...

1 Answer

I have a square D pressure switch on my home well water system. I also have a Iron filter on the system. The problem I have is that when Iron remover is in it's backwash cycle at night and someone uses the water the pressure drops 10 psi below the cut-in setting shutting down the pump because of the M4 setting of the pressure switch. I realize the M4 form setting is to prevent the pump from working when there is no water in the well but I have never had this issue. I am confused as to what type or form number I need on the switch to keep it pumping when this pressure drop occurs, If someone could tell me it would be great.


I find it interesting that you never had this problem. Did something change, specifically on the backwash of the iron filter? Is is possible that there is lower restriction to backwash causing the lower pump pressure? Could you throttle the backwash flow to allow pressure to be maintained and still get adequate backwashing?
It seems a lot of water must be flowing so that when you use some water the pressure drops to more than 10 psi below cut-in, that means typically 30 psi shutoff point.
Can you lower cut-in pressure, say 5 psi, lower?

Jan 05, 2011 | Square D 9013gsg2s22j99r Pressure Switch

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