Tip & How-To about Plumbing

Well Pump Problems The Well Pressure Switch

If you have a water well pump then you also have a well pump pressure switch that controls the well pump. This little device can be very confusing. It also is known by many names. These may include pressure switch, well pressure switch, well pump pressure switch, water well pressure switch, well tank pressure switch, and many other variations. All of them refer to the same part that controls the on and off function of the water well pump whether it is a submersible well pump, a deep well jet pump, or a shallow well jet pump.


Some the problems that are most common with the well pump pressure switch.

  1. The contacts burn out and fail to conduct the current through them to the well pump. If you see the contacts are very black or even not there then you definitely have to replace the pressure switch.
  2. The contacts weld together and keep the pump on continuously. Sometimes after getting worn and dirty the contacts on the well pressure switch will just stick right together and not release when the pressure builds and then the pump will not shut off. Even if you can release them with a screw driver, after turning the power off of coarse, they will just do it again, replace the pump switch.
  3. Dirt will sometimes plug up the little pipe nipple that goes down from the bottom of the well tank pressure switch and delay the action of the well pump. This can happen even on shallow or deep well pump that have the pressure switch mounted right on them or sense pressure through a small plastic tube. Take everything apart and clean out so that the water pressure to the pressure switch is accurate.

This should give you a basic guide to the common problems you may experience with your water well pressure switch.

Also note that some well pressure switches have a small lever on the side that will need to be held up for a minute or so to start the well pump. This is a low water cut off protection device that will keep the well pump off if it runs out of water in the well or if it loses prime for some reason. Hold the lever up part way for a bit till pressure starts to build in the well pump pressure tank and then it can be released.

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3695577-jet_pump_jet_water_pump

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3691134-pressure_switch_adjustment_water

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3690698-pump_problems_water_tank

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3689163-water_problems_pump_problems

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1 Answer

Washing machine drain pump runs continuaosly.


Possibly water valve could be caysing problem if not getting water v

Nov 03, 2017 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

I had a water line bust. After fixing the leak, I lost water pressure. Someone tried to fix the problem and now we have little to no water flow. I have to pumps . The smaller pump that feeds the house is cuttung off and on and the larger pump isnt coming on at all. Cant get any water flow to the holding tank


The nut on the larger spring in the pump pressure switch: Usually the larger nut in the pump pressure control switch adjusts the pump cut-on ("cut-in") AND pump cut-off pressures simultaneously. This is the left-hand spring (and nut) in our photo. That means that whatever the gap is between the cut-on pressure and the cut-off pressure, that gap is maintained, but the entire operating range of the pump is raised or lowered. Turning the large nut clockwise RAISES BOTH the cut-on and cut-off pressures. So turning the large nut clockwise shifts the whole operating pressure range of the pump UP to HIGHER pressures.
Conversely, turning the large nut counter-clockwise will lower the whole pump operating range. This is the simplest adjustment to make.
Photo (left) courtesy of a reader.
The nut atop the smaller spring in the pump pressure switch: this nut is used to narrow or widen the gap between the pump cut-on and pump cut-off pressures. This is the right-hand spring (and nut) in our photo).

Turning the small nut clockwise (tighter) will RAISE the CUT-OFF pressure, and vice versa, loosening or turning the nut counter-clockwise will lower the cut-off pressure. Watch out! If you loosen this nut too much you can set the cut-off pressure below the cut-on pressure and the pump will turn on and run forever (or until it burns up.)
Which nut to turn in the pump pressure switch control, and which direction to turn it, are usually visible on a label inside the pressure switch cover. Above we show photos of a common Square D water pump pressure control switch (Schneider Electric) and the label with pump control adjustment details. [Click to enlarge].
Here are Example Pump Pressure Switch Adjustment Instructions from Square -D Understanding how pump pressure control switches work and which way to turn which of the two nuts in the control can be confusing.
On a Square-D Pumptrol® 9013FSF-2 pump pressure switch, for example, Square D tells us that we
  • Turn the Range Nut #1 (the larger spring and nut) clockwise (to the right or "down") to raise [both] cut-on and cut-off pressures. This is "tightening the nut down" against the spring. ("Rightie-tightie, leftie-loosie" as Mara Gieseke says to her kids). Thanks to reader Rise for this clarification.

    In other words, adjusting the pressure on this spring shifts the whole operating range of the switch up or down, but keeps the difference between cut-in and cut-out the same, whatever it happens to be (typically it's about 20 psi from the factory.)

    If you want the pump to turn ON (cut-in) sooner
    , that is, at a higher water pressure, turn the nut clockwise or "tighter".

    If you want the water pump to turn ON (cut-in) later, that is, at a lower water pressure, turn the nut counterclockwise or "looser".

  • Turn the Differential Nut #2 (the smaller spring and nut) clockwise to raise the cut-out pressure.

    If you want the water pump to turn OFF (cut out or cut-off) at a higher water pressure, turn this nut clockwise or "tighter".

    If you want the water pump to turn OFF (cut out or cut-off) at a lower water pressure, turn this nut counter clockwise or "looser"

    Here is why the small nut is called the "Differential"
Keep reading at LINK

Nov 03, 2010 | Flotec TC2151 P2 Well Pump Pressure Switch

1 Answer

pump pressure high pump won't shut off


This sounds like a pressure switch and if water is comming from both ends the diarpham is probally bad and it's best to get a new one.

Jan 27, 2010 | Northern Tool 12 Room Purple Martin House

1 Answer

washing macine is only taking in a very small amount of water not enough to soak clothes. Now a red light has come on in the display which I have not seen before.


part 1 of 2

No water detected entering machine or Pressure switch trip not detected.

If after 30 seconds the control does not detect water entering machine and then valves will be turned off and the error code will be displayed.

Or
If the control has turned the water valves on and after 8 minutes the flow meter has detected 10.5 gallons of water passing through it, but has not detected the pressure switch trip, the valves will be turned off and the error code will flash.

Press PAUSE/CANCEL twice to clear the display.
  • If there is no or very little water in the unit:
    1. Make sure that both valves at the water source(s) are turned on all the way.
    2. Check for blocked or kinked inlet hoses or blocked screens in the inlet valves
    3. Verify inlet valve operation
  • If there is water in the unit:
    1. Verify Drain pump operation (See part 2 of 2)
    2. Pressure Switch Hose is in good condition and properly connected to Tub and Pressure switch
  • Verify there is not a siphon problem
  • Verify wire harness connections to:Inlet Valves, Pressure Switch, Drain Pump, Flow Meter, and Central Control Unit (CCU)
  • Check all hoses for possible leaks
  • Verify pressure switch operation - aka water level detector
  • Verify flow meter operation
  • Verify CCU operation

Nov 08, 2009 | Washing Machines

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