You know all those vacumn-line-boots and 90(s) that always crumble and break before the rest of the line; and going to a parts store?, good luck.. Here's your solution; old sparkplug- wire boots are great replacements, they are thick enough to withstand the vacumn and the silicones used in them are heat-resistent enough. Give it a try, say the pvc valve line going into the top of the valve-cover; well it usually breaks right there at the 90 into the valve-cover; take off the cumbled 90, grab your old plug-wire with the 90 and pull it off with a firm tug.Push on end of the 90 onto the pcv valve and the other end onto the vacumn-line, the spark-plug boot will stretch over even the 3/8" line with a squirt of oil and a firm push twist action, if no oil is available; spit on the boot. And this will work on most autos, no matter the make and/or the line size.
many auto part stores sell long blocks you add the rest of parts of the exterior of engine and reinstall complete engine. Most auto salvage yards sell engines some with 90 days to six-month warranties. I have had good luck with used engines.
Your best bet or options, because I highly doubt there's a manual or diagram (maybe through a restoration company online)
#1) find someone with model such as yours and sketch how his/hers is routed
#2) As a majority of rod friends of mine do, they buy straight lengths of brake line from parts stores and route what's convenient or "logical". Some of the older cars were pretty primitive and didn't always do things to accommodate options/logistics. (Some new cars are worse!)
Personally unless you're building a show stopping original, I'd route them "what makes sense to you"
I envy you, I've built a couple and situations change, I sold them after all work invested, now am kicking myself.. Good luck
Did you replace the boot that connected to the coil the touches the spark plug. If you didn't then the boot could be bad and instead of the park always going to the spark plug it hits outside the boot on the head. Good Luck