Tip & How-To about Washing Machines

Replacing the Drain Pump in a Front Loader

This advice is for Kenmore Elite, Whirlpool Duet and Maytag Epic model FRONT LOADING washing machines. If you experience a problem where the washer does not drain and the drain pump does not run at all, here’s the information you need to replace the drain pump:

  1. Unplug the washer while servicing inside the unit.
  2. Remove the lower kick panel under the door by removing the three 7mm screws under the bottom edge of the panel. HINT: Use a couple of blocks of wood to prop up the front feet of the washer to gain better access to the screws. Once the screws are removed the panel should drop down, and then pull off. If the panel becomes stuck, a slight tap on either side will dislodge it.
  3. Locate the drain pump. It will be located directly under the wash tub (it is the only pump this washer has).
  4. There is an access removal cover on the pump that can be removed to clean out the trap. Sometimes objects get caught in the pump impeller and stop it from running. We’re going to assume that you have already done this and that the pump no longer runs. It is strongly recommended that you remove all residual water from the wash tub & drain line at this point or you will have about a gallon or so inside your washer and on the floor to clean up.
  5. HINT: Here’s a helpful way of quickly removing the residual water. If you own a wet/dry shop vac, remove the drain hose from the standpipe at the wall and pull a vacuum with the shop vac. This will empty the wash tub, pump and drain lines. If you don’t own a shop vac, grab a bunch of old towels and open the access on the pump slowly so that it comes out at a trickle. Allow the towels to soak up the majority of the water. Close the access and stop the water if you need to get additional towels.
  6. Place the drain hose back in the standpipe (IMPORTANT – DO NOT FORGET!).
  7. Locate the electrical connection to the pump and disconnect.
  8. Now locate the two drain lines and remove them. The hose clamps can be released by squeezing with a pair of pliers. NOTE: I would not recommend removing the hose from the bottom of the wash tub unless you really have to. This one can be difficult at times to get back on.
  9. Remove the torx type screw at the front center of the pump and it should slide right out of the mounting grooves on the bottom of the washer case.
  10. Your new pump comes with several adapters to place on the feet of the pump in order for it to properly fit your washer. These are rubber bushings that help get rid of vibration and noise. If you become confused, there should be installation instructions that come with your new pump. You can also look at the pump you just removed to see how the bushings are mounted.
  11. Reinstall the drain lines to the pump. HINT: It is much easier to do this with the pump still OUT, rather than installing it. When you squeeze the clamps to open them up, make sure you slide the clamp completely over the hose AND the inlet/outlet tubes on the pump housing in order to get a good seal.
  12. Reinstall pump by sliding the feet of the pump into the mounting grooves on the bottom of the washer case. Tighten the center screw and reattach the electrical connection.
  13. With the bottom panel still off, plug the washer back in and select the following on the operator console – DRAIN SPIN, NO SPIN, and then press any button under OPTIONS 4 times (it must be the same button). “C00” will show on the console display as the washer begins diagnostics mode.
  14. Check the drain pump for leaks as the washer fills. The pump is gravity filled and will hold water even it is not pumping. Allow washer to run through diagnostics until it begins the wash tub tumble cycle.
  15. At this point, you can stop the diagnostics procedure by pressing PAUSE/CANCEL 2 times. The drain pump is supposed to energize and begin to drain.
  16. If the pump works normal and there are no leaks detected, reinstall panel and tighten screws.

CAUTION: Use care when reaching inside the washer case not to damage the small wire harness that runs along the front of the machine.

NOTE: It is normal to have residual water left inside the wash tub under the wash basket. This is why it is important to leave the door ajar when not in use so this water does not become sour.

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1 Answer

It's on lock control


If you are referring to the Control Lock on a Whirlpool Duet, Kenmore Elite, or Maytag Epic series front loader, this is actually a safety feature that enables the consumer to lock the control panel to prevent children from manipulating the controls and accidentally starting the appliance.

With the lock on, the control panel is disabled and you cannot use any of the controls, except the button to unlock it. It can inadvertently be set following a power outage, leaning against the control panel, or pressing and holding the wrong button. This is usually not an indication of a malfunction.

If this is a Whirlpool manufactured appliance (such as Kenmore Elite, Maytag Epic or Whirlpool Duet), the following link explains how to lock/unlock this feature:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3608801-control_panel_lock


These instructions are also printed on the front panel of the appliance and in the owner's manual.

If this does not correct your problem, then you may have a more significant problem other than a simple operator control button issue (such as an operator console problem or main control board issue). Please post back and let me know if you need further assistance.

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If you are referring to the Control Lock on a Whirlpool Duet, Kenmore Elite, or Maytag Epic series front loader, this is actually a safety feature that enables the consumer to lock the control panel to prevent children from manipulating the controls and accidentally starting the appliance.

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If this is a Whirlpool manufactured appliance (such as Kenmore Elite, Maytag Epic or Whirlpool Duet), the following link explains how to lock/unlock this feature:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3608801-control_panel_lock


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