Tip & How-To about Plumbing

Copper Pipe Repair ? What to do When Your Copper Piping Springs a Leak

Copper piping is a great way to run the water lines in your home. But what do you do when the piping fails to keep the water on the inside? The most common form of leak in copper piping is a “pin-hole” leak. This type of leak can be repaired very quickly and easily with some new innovations on the market today.

The greatest thing to come along for quite a while for the do it yourself market is the push type fitting that fits any CTS (copper tube size) tubing. It does not matter if the piping is copper, cpvc, poly, pex, or whatever. Just so it is standard CTS size around. These fittings come in many forms, configurations, and name brands. A couple of the most common brands would be Sharkbite, Tektite, Cash-Acme, and Watts. I have tried them all and they do all work well, so do not be so concerned with the brands as the availability. In others words do not be afraid to use whatever you can find quickly, it will probably work just fine.

Now to repair a leak all you have to do is identify the source of the leak. Some times it may be a very slow drip that can run along the pipe for a space before dripping off of the pipe. Do not assume that the spot of the drip is the spot of the leak. Other times the leak will be a very fine spray that can make it very hard to identify exactly where it water is coming from. Hold up a piece of paper or cardboard and watch where and how the water is hitting it. That will help you trace the spray back to the hole in the pipe.

The next problem can be getting the pipe cut with out crushing it. Copper piping that is leaking often can be so thin that it has very little structural integrity left in it. With a good sharp tubing cutter you can cut through the pipe with out crushing it. Just be patient and only crank the cutter closed a little bit at a time, so you do not cave in the pipe as you cut it. A quarter turn of the knob on the cutter will be enough to cut the pipe and not crush the pipe.

Now after getting a good clean cut on both ends of the pipe just carefully push the repair coupling onto one end of the pipe. Then carefully get the other side of the pipe started into the coupling and push them together till they are seated into the coupling. All in all this is a very simple process that will take you less time then it will for you to find the fitting in a store and purchase the fitting.

The push repair fittings are a great thing to have on hand “just in case”. The next time you get to the hardware or home center, look them up and grab a couple for that next time you may need to make a quick repair in your water lines.

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master temp 400 2 yr old bad heat exchanger??


i dont blame you for your frustration!! i have hadseveral customers who had great water chemistry and had the heat exchanger fail. if you have a salt water pool, you should have been advised to purchase a heater with a cupro nickel heat exchanger instead of just a copper one. otherwise since ur chemistry was spot on, then you unfortunatly purchased a bad unit

Jun 28, 2013 | Pool & Spa

1 Answer

When I run hot water for the tub, it has a brown tint


10 year old homes today usually do not have galvanized pipe. They have copper or pex plastic pipe. These do not rust.
Is rusty water on both hot and cold line, or just hot line?
Just hot line, then check anode rod and flush tank:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Replace-anode-rod.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/Clean-sediment-out-of-water-heater.html#flush
Are you on water well? Well casing can get rusted. Water can have minerals. Call local water well service and describe problem in detail.
Are you on city water or mudd district water? Is pipe coming into house made of galvanized? Look inside meter box or look at pipe coming into house. Sometimes the city water line at end of run can get filled with sediments that will discolor water. Have water company flush the city water line.

May 04, 2013 | Rheem Water Heaters

1 Answer

LG LFX21976ST refrigerator. Started the day with a full reservoir of ice, was using it heavily to keep some workers hydrated. The last time I tried to get ice, none came. Per the label inside the doo


The ice maker's water supply line may be frozen solid. Do not worry... take out your frozen groceries and dairy products, and let your friends store them for two days while your completely defrost your refrigerator. If you don't want to wait, try to locate a schematic (parts diagram) for your fridge and take a panel access cover off to get access to the copper tube of the water supply line inside. (Warning: this can be terminal to your fridge so don't attempt this without the exact parts diagram for your make and model.) Ensure you are heating the water pipe and NOT the refrigerant line; i.e., freon, ammonia, etc... Unplug your fridge and heat up the (water supply) copper pipe with a high wattage blow dryer... if you were a pro, I would recommend a heat gun. DO NOT USE A HAND TORCH as the soldered joint connections may come loose and it will leak afterwards. (The demand you placed on the ice maker caused the compressor to run almost continually for the ice maker assembly causing the copper pipe water supply pipe to freeze... it will take time to thaw it out by just unplugging it. In the future, when you know you need volumes of ice... make a little at a time each day and store it inside a separate ice cube container.) You may also want to check the activation lever above the ice cube container (bin) to make sure it moves freely against the switch contact. If the switch contact is jammed, it won't work. Good Luck

Oct 02, 2012 | Refrigerators

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