Tip & How-To about Samsung DLP HL-P4663W 46" Rear Projection HDTV-Ready Television
Hi There. This is a very common issue with most rear projection Televisions. For example, you and your loved one are watching a great, and captivating movie, but suddenly, the screen go's blank. There is a "Lamp" signal in the right or left upper corner of the screen, and its flashing. Im sure at this time, you are very upset, and your loved one is, as well. don't worry about a thing. I will explain what is actually going on in this situation. In most situations, this will be a blown lamp, but in others, this will be a failed ballast.
Ok, first we will go over a few symptoms. The first will be the "lamp"
The lamp has only one symptom of failure. this will be a single pop, or a faint overheated filament smell. Normally you will here a single pop before the screen will go blank. The sound may continue, in some models.
The ballast is a little tricky to diagnosis, audibly. There are three main symptoms of failure here.
1. The TV will usually give a "LAMP" failure code, even when the lamp has been replaced.
2. The TV will not make the normal click noise, or surge noise during start up. The absence of the start up surge noise is one of the quickest ways to determine whether the ballast or power board are bad, other than the lamp, itself.
3. The TV will make erratic, or rapid clicking noises during start up(5 clicks for every 3 secs). This is an indication of a weak ballast. It is unable to power up the lamp.
Now. Once you are faced with this issue, I would advise to simply test the ballast. Once exposed, you can visually inspect the component's as well. I will guide you through this with my procedure below.
The Lamp, and ballast are housed in close proximity of each other in most rear projection DLP sets. There is an access panel located on the bottom rear side of the unit. Most standard Phillip head screw drivers will due. Once the screws are removed from the rear access panel, the panel can be removed, and put aside. Once the panel if removed, the internals will be exposed. The Light engine platform is where the engine, and lamp housing will be mounted. The lamp/ballast housing is slightly to the right of the light engine. It will be black, in color. Ok, gently unscrew the light engine platform screws,and separate all harness connection to the engine,before pulling the platform away form the cabinet. Make sure the wires going to the digital board are removed from the light engine Assembly, and lamp/ballast housing as well. It is very important to make sure that all wires are disconnected from the light engine, and lamp housing before the engine platform is pulled away from the unit cabinet. Ok, once the platform is removed from the unit, simply pinch the plastic clips and pull to remove the vent housing. Now, once the vent housing is removed, the ballast will be exposed. Pull the smaller connector (ballast control cables), out carefully. Be sure that you don't damage the connector or the cables. Ok, now you release the lamp housing, and remove it. It is just to the side of the ballast housing. Once the lamp housing is removed, the ballast will have a few screws holding it on the engine platform. Simply remove the ballast mounting screws, and lift up the ballast housing of the platform.
NOTE_Normally, the ballast has Two connections to the digital board and power supply. The third connector goes to the lamp. Connector one powers the ballast, while connector two, gives operation instructions to the ballast.
Ok. Once the ballast housing is removed from the platform, place it on a separate table, and remove the ballast housing screws to expose the ballast circuit board and components. This is where you will need to access a multimeter. testing is needed to confirm ballast failure. Although there are visual indications that will confirm failure, i would suggest to test as well. Observe the ballast before proceeding. If oil is leaking from the ballast, stop here and remove the ballast. Leaking oil indicates that the ballast is damaged beyond any doubt as the internal seal has been ruptured by excessive heat. This is one of the visual indicators that will require you to go ahead and replace the ballast. If there are no oil leaks visible, move on to the testing procedure. Turn the Volt Ohmmeter to "ohms" and touch the ends of the two probes together. The meter should show continuity or a direct short. Touch the probes of the meter to one of the white wires and one of the colored, blue or yellow, or any wires that comes from the ballast. This should show a short or continuous circuit. If it does not, the ballast is bad and should be replaced.
This will conclude the procedure. This will prevent you from purchasing the wrong part, when the "LAMP", code appears.
Here are a few other models that my tips will cover. HLT4675S, HLT5075S, HLT5675S, HLT6756W, HLR5067W, HLR5656W, HLR6767W, HLT5076S, HLT5676S, HLT6176S
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