Tip & How-To about Hand Tools

Patching a hole in drywall/sheetrock

The best way to patch a hole when you don't have backing material is as follows:

Step 1: Cut the hole out square with a keyhole saw or utility knife:

Step 2: Cut a piece of drywall, (the same thickness as the wall that you are working on), to fit fairly tightly into square hole. (HINT: You don't want the patch to fit so tight that it breaks the corners when you try to put it in.) If done properly, this patch will not want to stay in the hole by itself. You must leave 1/32nd of an inch all the way around the patch. Once the patch has been properly fitted, you are now ready to start taping it in.

Step 3: Put the patch face down on the floor or table so that you can easily work on it. Using drywall mud/compound & the 5" knife, lightly mud the back side of the patch (www.all-wall.com/Categories/Joint-Knives/Hyde-Stainless-Hammer-Head). Place a piece of drywall tape over the patch, allowing it to hang over the edge of the patch about 1 1/2" on the top/bottom of the patch (paper tape flaps).(www.tooldistrict.com/2inx500ftpaperjointtapepn500bypermaglas-mesh.aspx) Holding the tape firmly against the patch, wipe down the tape with the 5" knife.

Step 4: Once the piece of tape is wiped down, you are now ready to apply mud to the section of wall where the paper tape flaps will be laying. Place the patch over the hole, tapping it into place until the patch is laying flat on the wall. Holding your fingers on the seams of the patch, wipe down the first paper flap, and then the other. (HINT: Always wipe down the top flap first, then the bottom flap. Make sure the patch is flush with the wall, or recessed slightly. If the patch is sticking out from the wall even a little bit, it will be very difficult to hide!)

Step 5: Now that the patch is in, mud the horizontal seams in, paper tape, and wipe down. Repeat the process for the vertical seams. (NOTE: You may use mesh tape on these seams if you wish because mesh is a little thinner than the paper tape; making it a little easier to cover on the next two coats. Don't make a special purchase if you don't already have some laying around, it's not worth it. ( www.all-wall.com/Categories/Fiberglass-Mesh-Drywall-Tape/Thin-Drywall-Mesh-Tape )Let this dry for 12 hours before coating again.

Step 6: For the next coat you will need a 10 " broad knife (www.all-wall.com/Categories/Taping-Knives-Stainless-Steel/Hyde-Maxxgrip-Extruded-Back) Apply mud to the patch, covering the tape from the previous application.You will need to leave more mud around the outside of the patch; not too much on top of the tape. It is already going to be a little high on top of the tape so you are basically creating an optical illusion by building up around the patch. Let this coat dry 24 hours.

Step 7: If the 2nd coat was done properly, then putting a finish coat, (3rd and final coat), won't be a problem. This coat is just to fill in any low spots that you weren't able to get completely full the last coat. And if you did get it full the last time, congrats, then it is just a skim coat to fill in any air bubbles that may exist. (NOTE: Whenever patching over an already painted wall, the drywall mud/compound will bubble. This is normal. After 2nd coat of mud drys, scrape off the air bubbles before applying the next coat.) Let this coat dry for 12-24 hours

Step 8: Now the fun part begins: Use a sanding sponge or a sanding pole to sand the patch off, (http://www.all-wall.com/acatalog/A000_Dustless_Sanding_20.php). Then it is ready for paint!!

Good Luck!

If you should have any questions about"Drywall Finishing/Patching", or know someone who does, put your questions to Category:"Tools- Building & Power-HAND TOOLS" at FixYa.com

I will do my best to answer your questions about drywall finishing, but as you can see, just a simple patch is very involved. However, it would be best if we could speak on the PHONE or do a live CHAT. I can answer any question you have if it involves getting a wall ready for paint!


Key Words: Drywall/Sheetrock/Gypsum Wallboard, Patching, Texturing, Speckling, & Paper Tape

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how do I repair a large hole in my drywalled wall in my living room that is right beside the door frame?

If you live near a Home Depot or Lowes they sell partial sheets of drywall. Cut a square slightly larger than the damaged area from the new drywall. Trace this around the damaged area and then cut out the damaged area with a key hole saw or sawzaw or if you don't have those just your utility knife. You can probably buy all the tools and materials for a lot less than hiring someone. Since you said the hole is next to a door you shouldn't have to worry about electrical wires, but just in case, take a flashlight and look into the hole before you cut to make sure. Now you should have a hole the size and shape of the new piece you cut. The area against the door is against studs and you'll have to just keep cutting with your knife until you get through to the wood. Now, on the other side of the hole across from the door take a piece of scrap wood and put it inside the hole and press it against the inside of the wall so half the scrap wood is behind the wall and the other half is exposed in the hole. While you're holding the scrap wood you'll need to screw 1 1/4" drywall screws through the existing drywall and into the scrap wood. The scrap wood should now be tight against the back of the drywall and partially exposed to resemble the stud on the other side by the door jamb. Now you have backing for your patch. Place the patch you cut earlier in the hole and screw it in place. A screw gun or drill with #2 philips head screw tip will make this job easier. The screws should be counter sunk just slightly so the heads don't rip the paper. If you do rip the paper you'll need to put in another screw near that one or else you'll have problems later, especially near a door. Now finish the hole with joint compound. You can buy this at most hardware stores in a one gallon bucket. You'll need a role of drywall tape as well. I recommend the fiberglass mesh tape for ease. Also you'll need a taping 6" taping knife and a tray.
Fill the joint compound tray half way and mix it around with your knife until smooth. Take the fiberglass tape and stick it to the wall around the patch to cover where you cut. Spread a thick layer of joint compound over the fiberglass tape and then gently wipe it all off with one or two strokes. Repeat this until all the tape is covered with a thin layer of "mud" (joint compound). Make sure all the screw holes get filled too. Let this dry for several hours, maybe overnight. Put the excess mud back in the bucket and clean your tools. When the first coat is dry take your 6" taping knife and scrape away any blobs of mud that you left behind from the first coat and then apply a second coat. You may need a third coat. Sand the joint compound until smooth tapering the edges to the paper. Again, be careful not to sand the paper too much, you don't want to go through. If you have smooth walls, you're in luck, now just paint. If you have textured walls then you have more work. you can get spray texture in an aerosol can at the hardware store. Read the instructions on the can and practice on the left over drywall from your patch. Note: you'll never make a perfect match with this aerosol texture but you can get it close. The only way to get a perfect match is to use a compressor and and special spray gun for joint compound and it takes some practice. You can rent these things in most towns if you're very particular. Good luck

Aug 09, 2013 | Tools & Hardware - Others

1 Answer

fixture for curtainrail wentthroughplasterboardbig hole now help.me fix please

Hi, W/D here.

It takes about 4 days for a good patch to be made. You can buy the materials in small quantities at the hardware store, so it won't cost much at all for a small hole, and a little more for a larger one.

For a hole smaller than a tennis ball, you can press newspaper crumpled loosely into a ball into the hole, as much as you need, to build the hole up to just below the surface, then cover with overlapping layers of drywall mesh tape. The directions for a larger hole follow, and you can skip the first parts of it if you do not need them (if you are using the newspaper method.). With this method (newspaper) the most important part is to remember that the first coat of spackling is just to anchor the tape and bridge the repair, no more.

The easiest way to repair a larger hole in wall board:
1. Cut a piece of new wall board larger than the hole you want to repair.
2. Take your wallboard "patch and hold it over the hole. Draw the outline of the patch on the wall.
3. Using a drywall saw, cut out the outline of the patch on the wall.
4. Cut a piece of wood longer than the hole is tall, by about 4". Measure back from each end 2".
5. Start a drywall screw 1" above the patch outline, centered. Align the wood in the hole with the lines you made on it at 2" back from the ends. Screw the drywall screw into the wood. Do the same at the bottom. You'll want the drywall screw to be below the surface while trying not to break the paper surface of the drywall.
5. Fit your patching piece into the cavity, and, depending on how large the hole is screw through the patch and into the wood with one or two drywall screws.
5. Using self-adhesive drywall tape, tape the crack around the patch, overlapping at the corners.
6. Use pre-mixed drywall spackling with a 4" putty knife to apply the first coat of drywall spackling to the patch. The aim here is to secure the new drywall to the old, so you need to use the putty knife to press the spackling into the crack, and lightly coat the drywall tape. If your screws that were used to secure your wood to the back of the old drywall are outside of the tape, press the spackling into the screw dimples as well. If you hear a "ticking" sound as you pass over the screws with the spackling, the screw isn't set deep enough. Give it another turn or so, until you don't hear it tick when you pass over it with the knife. Let all of this dry for 24 hours. Clean your tools, and dry them.
7. The next day, sand any burrs that stick out, but sand lightly, trying to taper the patch out onto the old wall. Don't be too particular, as there is still a ways to go. Using the drywall knife and spackling, re-coat the patch, blending more onto the wall, and leaving a little more material in the mesh of the drywall tape. The cracks should be refilled, as they'll have shrunken in overnight, so this is all done at the same time. Don't over-work it, just give it a good coating, and leave it alone. The screws that you previously spackled will get another coating at this time as well. You're done for the day, clean and dry your tools.
8. The next day, lightly sand the burrs, again feathering a bit onto the wall. Try to remove the dust from sanding with a dry cloth, lightly brushing the patch and wall. This should be the final coat today. Lightly apply your spackling, feathering it out onto the wall. The aim here is to make the finished repair invisible to the eye, so feather out onto the wall at least the width of your blade, if possible. You can fill the screw holes again as needed, feathering the spackling out from the screw dimples onto the patch and wall. Done for the day. Clean and dry your tools.
9. Day 4. Sand the patch, feathering out from the patch and across the patch. It should appear relatively flat to the eye, with the cracks and screw holes filled and feathered. No tape should be sticking out. It will all appear smooth. It is ready for matching paint.
Hope that this was helpful.
Best regards, --W/D--

Feb 03, 2011 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

hole in wall the size of a fist. How do I fill it and patch?

Follow these steps:
1. Useing a piece of scrap wallboard (same thickness has damaged wall) cut a square piece large enough to cover the hole. Place new piec over the hole and trace around edge of rteplacement piece. Cuit along lines with wallboard keyhole saw so that replacement piece fits perfectly. screw a wallboard screw into center of replacement (to act as a small handle) and coat edges of replacement with joint compound. Fit replacement into damaged hole and trowel compound to as smooth a finish as possible. Allow to dry completely the remove screw and sand to a like new wall.

Feb 24, 2010 | Square Mayes Level 10184 48" Wallboard ...

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