How to Maintain Cam Lock?

The followings are the tips for maintenance of cam lock:
1. During daily utilization, had better to hold handle and screw spring bolt into body. Then, loose hand after closing door. The door should not be hit by force,
otherwise service life of cam lock will be reduced. The lock and handle cannot be wiped by using wet cloth, because some locks made of metal materials will rust; clad
layer on locks made of alloy materials will be wear off, which will be not beautiful any more.

2. Lubricant agents should be kept on rotating part of lock, maintaining smooth rotation and extending service life. The lock should be inspected for once in half of a
year or one year. Meanwhile, check whether fasting screw is loosen or not, ensuring that it is fastened.

3. During the application of cylinder, when key is not inserted and extracted smoothly, a few of graphite powders or pencil powders can be injected into slot of
cylinder so that key can be inserted and extracted smoothly. However, other oils cannot be used as lubricant agents in case of grease pasting billiard spring which
cause that cylinder cannot be rotated or opened.

4. For , tolerance clearance of cylinder and locking plate should be checked frequently. The coordination of height between spring bolt and hole of locking
plate is appropriate or not. The best tolerance clearance between door and door frame is 1.5-2.5mm. If the tolerance clearance is changed, location of hinge on door or
locking plate should be adjusted.

5. When cam lock is normally used, if there is dirt on lock, the dirt can be cleaned up by using dry cloth. The lock cannot be wiped by using cleanser essence and
other chemicals, or else, protective film on exposed parts will be destructed, leading to discoloration.

6. When main spring bolt or safety spring tongue, it cannot be hit vigorously, avoiding spring bolt or door frame being damaged, because sealing strip is installed
between door and door frame, having elastic force, so, when opening lock by handle or key is tight, the door can be pull or pushed by hand when opening door to
overcome the elastic force, in case of handle or key being broken. Cam Lock Manufacturer Supplier Topper Cam Locks

TO DISASSEMBLE BOLT - Depress Safety

Cap' Lock Plunger #8 and turn Safety Cap

# 1 counterclockwise. Striker Spring #9

and Firing Pin Assembly #10 can then be

removed.

TO REASSEMBLE BOLT - Replace firing pin

assembly and striker spring. Insert safety

cap and turn clockwise making sure that it is screwed forward as far as it will go. Then unscrew

until the hole for the safety cap lock plunger is in line

with the cam slot in the bolt. Drop lock spring and

plunger into hole and face cut out portion toward bolt.

Depress plunger and screw cap clockwise until the
plunger is engaged in the recess in the rear of the bolt.

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

See the following Whirlpool Service manuals for top load, direct drive washers. They describe what happens in the transmission when the washer goes into spin mode:


WHIRLPOOL INST AND MAINTENANCE INCLUDING HOW TRANSMISSION WORKS

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf


WHIRLPOOL TRANSMISSION DESCRIPTION AND SPRINGS

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b0600504738/$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf

Also see the Whirlpool Parts list for their Commercial washers, although the consumer models use the same transmission.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf


Basically whats happening is this.

When the washer goes into spin mode two plastic cams are forced together and raise a gear on the main agitator shaft that is supposed to keep the agitators from spinning. If the cams are worn (not necessarily broken) the gear doesn't lift high enough to completely disengage the agitators. We had the same problem. Ours was a major gear noise but a clicking could also be a symptom. A set of Whirlpool Agitate Cams (part number 62580/01) cost about $15.00.

It's a bit messy to fix (16 oz. of oil in the transmission) but very inexpensive.

See the following for how to remove the transmission.

In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators.

The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt. A 1/2" socket extension works well.

You don't have to remove the drum.

You can also see this site for removing the transmission.


ILLUSTRATED DESCRIPTION OF REMOVING CABINET THRU TRANSMISSION.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside, remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission. Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft, remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 15 Oz of 80-90 weight gear oil. (Available at auto parts stores)


Remove the transmission cover.

Pull off the spin pinion.

Push down on the agitate spring and remove the spring clip. Note where is attaches to the main shaft.

The two plastic agitate cam parts pull right off. Don't lose the washer on top of the cams.

Replace the cams, washer, spring and clip, pinion, oil (assuming you drained the oil first), cover and clutch parts.

Line up the transmission so that the release cam on the brake drum will snap onto the clutch spring retaining clip and put all parts back in the washer.

I'd also check the Motor Coupler (a $15.00 item that tends to wear) while you have the transmission out.


The basic tools are screwdriver, small socket set with up to a 1/2" socket, vice grips or good pliers (to remove and replace clips)

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump

removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

See the following Whirlpool Service manuals for top load, direct drive washers. They describe what happens in the transmission when the washer goes into spin mode:


WHIRLPOOL INST AND MAINTENANCE INCLUDING HOW TRANSMISSION WORKS

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf


WHIRLPOOL TRANSMISSION DESCRIPTION AND SPRINGS

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b0600504738/$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf

Also see the Whirlpool Parts list for their Commercial washers, although the consumer models use the same transmission.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf


Basically whats happening is this.

When the washer goes into spin mode two plastic cams are forced together and raise a gear on the main agitator shaft that is supposed to keep the agitators from spinning. In actuality, the agitator will still spin somewhat due to the oil moving the shaft.

If the cams are worn (not necessarily broken) the gear doesn't lift high enough to completely disengage the agitators (about 1/16"). We had the same problem. Ours was a major gear noise but a clicking could also be a symptom.

A set of Whirlpool Agitate Cams (part number 62580/01) cost about $15.00.

It's a bit messy to fix (16 oz. of oil in the transmission) but very inexpensive.

See the following for how to remove the transmission.

In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators.

The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt. A 1/2" socket extension works well.

You don't have to remove the drum.

You can also see this site for removing the transmission.


ILLUSTRATED DESCRIPTION OF REMOVING CABINET THRU TRANSMISSION.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside, remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission. Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main

agitator shaft, remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 15 Oz of 80-90 weight gear oil. (Available at auto parts stores)


Remove the transmission cover.

Pull off the spin pinion.

Push down on the agitate spring and remove the spring clip. Note where is attaches to the main shaft.

The two plastic agitate cam parts pull right off. Don't lose the washer on top of the cams.

Replace the cams, washer, spring and clip, pinion, oil (assuming you drained the oil first), cover and clutch parts.

Line up the transmission so that the release cam on the brake drum will snap onto the clutch spring retaining clip and put all parts back in the washer.

I'd also check the Motor Coupler (a $15.00 item that tends to wear) while you have the transmission out.


The basic tools are screwdriver, small socket set with up to a 1/2" socket, vice grips or good pliers (to remove and replace clips)

hi, here is a guide i have come across on this site written by another expert it should be the one for your engine but always double check.

If you are unsure what you are doing then please go out and buy a haines workshop manual as these tell you every detail you need to know so that would be your best solution.

Please dont do this work if your unsure what you are doing as you could damage the engine beyond repair so you have been warned;

it covers single cam and if you scroll down it shows double cam ok

Sep 14, 2009 - VW Passat & Audi A4 1990-2000 Repair Guide
Timing Belt - REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

2.8L SOHC (AFC) V6 Engine

1. Note the radio security code and disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Place the (hood) lock carrier in the service position. For additional information, please refer to the following topic(s): Body And Trim, Service Position, Front Bumper, Hood Lock Carrier.
3. Remove the engine accessory drive belt. For additional information, please refer to the following topic(s): General Information And Maintenance, Routing Maintenance And Tune-up.
4. Turn the engine by hand to Top Dead Center (TDC) on the firing stroke for cylinder No. 1.

NOTE The large holes in the camshaft sprocket lock plates should be on the inside facing one another.

1. Remove the Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor from the lower left side of the engine block. Make sure the engine is at TDC and install the threaded crankshaft holding pin Tool No. 3242 and lightly tighten.
2. Remove the upper timing belt covers, the crankshaft vibration damper and then the lower timing belt cover.
3. Loosen the camshaft sprocket bolts slightly and use a suitable pulley to release the sprockets from the tapered ends of the camshafts.
4. Loosen the tensioner roller and remove the drive belt.

To install :

1. Install the timing belt over the sprockets, then the idler rollers and lastly over the tensioner.
2. Install camshaft alignment tool holder Tool No. 3243 into the camshaft alignment flanges.
3. Check and adjust the cam belt tension such that the upper left portion of the belt between the tensioner and the left cam gear can just be twisted 90° ( 1 / 4 turn).
4. Tighten the cam belt tensioning roller to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm), and the camshaft sprocket bolts.
5. The balance of the installation is in reverse order of removal.

2.8L DOHC 5V (AHA) V6 Engine

1. Note the radio security code and disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Place the (hood) lock carrier in the service position. For additional information, please refer to the following topic(s): Body And Trim, Service Position, Front Bumper, Hood Lock Carrier.
3. Remove the engine accessory drive belt. For additional information, please refer to the following topic(s): General Information And Maintenance, Routing Maintenance And Tune-up.
4. Turn the engine by hand to Top Dead Center (TDC) on the firing stroke for cylinder No. 1.

NOTE The large holes in the camshaft sprocket lock plates should be on the inside facing one another.

1. On the cylinder block near the crankshaft, remove the sealing plug from the lower left side of the engine block. Make sure the engine is at TDC and install the threaded crankshaft holding pin Tool No. 3242 and lightly tighten.
2. Remove the upper timing belt covers, the crankshaft vibration damper and then the lower timing belt cover.
3. Loosen the camshaft sprocket bolts slightly and use a suitable pulley to release the sprockets from the tapered ends of the camshafts.
4. Using a 8mm Allen® wrench, rotate the timing belt tensioner roller clockwise until the tensioner is compressed; then, insert a 2mm spring pin through the tensioner housing and tensioner plunger to secure it in place. When the plunger is secure, release the wrench tension.
5. Remove the damper-to-crankshaft bolts and the damper.

NOTE It is not necessary to remove the center bolt when removing the crankshaft damper.

1. Remove the serpentine belt idler and the crankshaft damper guard.
2. Mark the running direction of the timing belt and remove it from the pulleys.

Fig. Crankshaft pulley alignment location for TDC-Audi 2.8L V6 engines




Fig. Left camshaft sprocket alignment position for TDC; right camshaft position is similar-Audi 2.8L V6 engines




Fig. View of crankshaft holding tool installed-Audi 2.8L V6 engines




Fig. View of camshaft locator bar installed-Audi 2.8L V6 engines


To install:

1. Make sure that the camshaft pulleys and the crankshaft pulley are in alignment with TDC of the No. 1 cylinder's compression stroke.
2. Install the timing belt; make sure the timing belt is installed in the correct running direction from which it was removed.
3. Using a 8mm Allen® wrench, rotate the timing belt tensioner roller clockwise until the tensioner is compressed; then, remove the 2mm spring pin from the tensioner housing. Slowly, release the tensioner spring pressure to put pressure on the timing belt.
4. Install the crankshaft damper guard and the serpentine belt idler pulley; torque the idler pulley bolts to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm).
5. Install the crankshaft damper and torque the damper-to-crankshaft bolts to 15 ft. lbs. If the damper-to-crankshaft center bolt was removed, torque it to 147 ft. lbs. (200 Nm) plus 180° 1 / 2 turn).
6. Remove the Crankshaft Holder tool No. 3242 and install the sealing plug.
7. Replace the remaining components by reversing the removal procedures.
8. Refill the cooling system and the automatic transaxle. Connect the electrical connectors. Install the negative battery cable last.
9. Test drive the vehicle.