Tip & How-To about Penn Spinfisher V 6500 Combo Spinning Reels 6500ll Reel, 330/12,300/15,210/20 Mono, 430/30,340/40,280/50 Braid,51 Bearing, Max Drag, 5.6:1 Gr, 39" Line Retreive, 25.1oz

PENN Spinfisher V Spinning Reel

Features:

  • Features 5+1 bearings
  • Full metal body, sideplate and Techno balanced rotor
  • Machined and anodized aluminum superline spool with line capacity rings
  • Sealed HT-100 slammer drag system
  • Instant anti-reverse
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Penn Spinfisher V 6500 Combo Spinning Reels 6500ll Reel, 330/12,300/15,210/20 Mono, 430/30,340/40,280/50 Braid,51 Bearing, Max Drag, 5.6:1 Gr, 39" Line Retreive, 25.1oz Logo

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2 Answers

A.O. smith model fpsh50 water heater has smelly water i know its the anode rod and it's on top of the tank but where and how to take it out


Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly

Use this link to locate your EXACT model.
http://www.hotwater.com/resources/product-literature/parts-lists/
There are 6 different types of FPSH50
270, 271, 270E
235
236, 237
250, 251
251, 252
260, 261, 261E

Download the manual for your unit. The anode rod just unscrews CCW from the fitting on the body of the hot water heater.

I checked the 250, 251 model

Using 3 and 9 o'clock for the plumbing connections as a reference, the anode would be at the 6 o'clock position under the metal cap in the top.
The part number for your anode is in italic bold below.FPSH50 -250. -251

1 ......... Anode - Aluminum (.750" dia.) Standard Models.......... 43817-25 ................... 43817-25 ................. 43817-38

1 ......... Anode - Aluminum (.840" dia.) Optional ...................... 180618-29 ................. 180618-29 ............... 180618-35
1 ......... Anode - Magnesium (.840" dia.) Optional .................... 183463-29 ................. 183463-29 ............... 183463-38

Thanks for choosing Fixya,
Kelly

Sep 09, 2011 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Where is the anode rod located on the rheem 81VP20s


Anodes are located on top of water heater.
There are no hard fast rules for location, either by model number or brand.
Most times the manual is likewise vague.
1) There is hex head visible on top of tank.
2) Hex head is located under a plastic cover
3) Hex head is located under metal top, so remove screws holding top, and lift top off to view hex head
4) Anode is connected to hot water nipple.
5) With 9-12-15-and lifetime tanks, you can have 2 anode rods, and each has to be made of same material to work properly. Usually magnesium-aluminum instead of aluminum.
But if you inspect and change anodes frequently to prolong life of tank, then one is as good as the next.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Replace-anode-rod.html

Open following links shows Rheem anode rods
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Rheem-Ruud-anode-rods.pdf
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Rheem-Ruud-water-heater-parts-guide.pdf
Tech resistor anode rod has resistor added to prolong life of anode.
You can cut rod off to fit size of tank. You want anode 5-6" from tank bottom so sediment build-up doesn't reach anode.
Anodes are standard 1-1/16" hex head.
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Water-heater-anode-006-200.jpg
http://waterheatertimer.org/Clean-sediment-out-of-water-heater.html

Add a comment with your experience so others with same-similar problem can benefit.

Also take advantage of fixya expert assistance live.
For a price, expert works with you while you work on water heater or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

Apr 01, 2011 | Rheem 81VP20S/430157 Water Heater

1 Answer

96 jeep Cherokee Distibutor installation instructions with pictures But must br step for step and very detailed.


Remove all the spark plugs. On the front of the engine the bottom pulley (the harmonic balancer connected to the crankshaft) will have a little notch on the rear edge of the balancer. It may not be visible yet. Locate the timing indicator which is on the block near the 2 o'clock position of the balancer (looking at the balancer from the front). Place a socket wrench on the center bolt of the balancer and turn clockwise until the notch lines up with the "0" mark on the timing indicator. Install the number 1 cylinder spark plug (this is the front most plug). Using the socket wrench on the balancer turn clockwise one full turn bring the notch back to the 0 mark. Pay attention to how difficult it is to rotate the engine the last half of the full turn. If it was as easy as the first half of the turn then make one more full revolution. If it is difficult or impossible to bring the notch to the 0 mark then stop, remove the spark plug and finish bring the notch to the 0 mark. The whole point of this exercise is to find Top Dead Center of Cylinder Number 1 on the Compression Stroke. This is necessary for proper installation of the distributor. If you are unable to find any discernible difference in the last half of both revolutions then something is wrong and you can't install the distributor following these instructions. Assuming you successfully found TDC-Number1Cylinder-CompressionCycle proceed. Look down the hole (with a flashlight) where the distributor will go and you will see a slot in the oil pump. We need to line up this slot so that the bottom of the distributor will slip into it. This is trial and error as follows. Put the distributor cap on the distributor - looking down at the top of the distributor rotate the body so that the fork (which is a part of the distributor that the mounting clamp will clamp to) is at the 3 o'clock position. At about the 5 o'clock position is a spark plug wire connector now on the body of the distributor make a mark that lines up with the center of this connector (again at about 5 o'clock). With the distributor cap off and the rotor installed, hold the distributor over the hole where the distributor goes (but not in it yet) and rotate the body of the distributor so that the fork is positioned directly over the bolt hole for the clamp (the clamp must be removed to insert the distributor). Now rotate the rotor so that metal end of the rotor is at about the 3:30 position and lower the distributor while very slightly turning the rotor from 3:15 to 3:45 position you should feel the distributor gear engage with the camshaft in the engine. Now let go of the rotor and push down on the distributor. If the fork doesn't seat against the engine block then the slot in the oil pump isn't line up with the bottom of the distributor (where you will see a tip like a screw driver blade). Pull the distributor back out and stick a long screw driver down the hold to engage the oil pump and turn it so the slot is somewhere around 4 o'clock and reinsert the distributor following the previous instructions. Eventually you should get the distributor to completely seat against the engine block. Now if the rotor end is not centered over the mark made on the distributor body you must pull out the distributor and repeat the insertion process starting with the rotor positioned more clockwise or counterclockwise as needed. When the distributor is properly installed the fork will be splitting the clamp hole and the rotor end will be centered over the mark made on the body of the distributor. Clamp the distributor in position. Installed the distributor cap. Install the spark plugs and spark plug wires.

Jan 18, 2011 | 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee

2 Answers

IHAVE A CANNON MAG 5 AND THE CABLE RUST UP ON ME CHANGED CABLE AND IT DID IT AGAIN IN ONLY 4 HRS


Corrosion is caused by small amounts of electrical current flow following the path of least resistance and jumping off one piece of metal to another one thus taking a small piece of metal with it when it goes. You have to either eliminate the current flow or slow it down or make it go somewhere else. The positive ion control in these downriggers can probably add to the problem. Also if you're fishing in salt water, it is a natural electrolyte and if two differnt kinds of metal are in saltwater, they creat a natural battery and produce enough electrical current to corrode the metal. I would suggest maybe using a sacrificial anode. It's a piece of metal with lower resistance to electrical current flow than the metal you're trying to use, thus is corrodes the anode before corroding the metal you're protecting. Anodes are made of metals like aluminum, zinc and magnesium. If you had a small piece of one of those metals and wrapped it around the downrigger spool before you wound the cable onto it, it would rust it out before rusting your cable. You can also try turning down your Ion Control. I've seen my cable rusting a little bit but it doesn't seem to be that bad or rust so fast. I'm wondering if you're using a different kind of metal for your cannonball?

Oct 15, 2009 | MAG Cannon Mag 5 HS Downrigger

2 Answers

2005 Equinox steering wheel shakes when applying brakes. Have checked brake lining, rotors, rotated and balanced tires and disconnected ASB and nothing stopped the shakes.


have the rotors machined, shaking when braking is an indication of a warped rotor or drum, even though it may look ok, the rotor can still be warped, it would be a good idea to have the rotors/drums machined and new pads installed if the old ones are 4-5/32'nds or lower. that should take care of your shaking when braking issue

Jun 29, 2009 | 2005 Chevrolet Equinox

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