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Bushing Suppliers

Bushing
The bushing is a tube fitting which is threaded on both the inside as well as the outside so that it can be used to connect two pipes of distinctive sizes. A bushing is a conical part of a mechanism, machine or instrument which has an axial opening into which other parts can fit. Based on their purposes a distinction is made among bushing, fasteners and adapters and so on.
A bushing is a part of a brushed sliding in which the journal of a shaft or axle rotates. Such bushings are fitted tightly into housing portion and is sometimes also held with screws. Antifriction materials like cast iron, bronze, graphite, are used for manufacturing bushing fittings. The use of bushing in sliding bearing reduces the consumption of costly materials and simplifies repair by reducing into the replacement of worn bushing with a new one. It is the removable piece of sintered steel, in the form of fitting. Instinox being Bushing Suppliers provides you with the best quality & services.

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imhave stripped threads on my sand filter housing where the pressure gage fits


That hole that you thread in your pressure gauge is 1/4" size. The pressure gauge is a 1/4" x 20 threads NC.

So, the fix I would attempt is to drill out the hole to the next size up and re-tap new threads - I would go to the next commonly used size: 3/8".

to do this: Obtain the proper drill bit size for a new 3/8" hole. That drill bit size will be a 37/64". Once you drill out the stripped hole to the next size opening, get your 3/8" Tap, and slowly & carefully start turning in a clockwise direction. Make one complete rotation, check to see if bites into the new hole, if not, then push into the hole a little bit harder, and try again. Once it bites, turn 1 more full turn and then backup a 1/2 turn. Continue a full turn, back up a 1/2 half turn. What this does, will break away the plastic fragments and will clean out the hole so it will not ruin the new cut threads.

Once the tap is in about half way, thread the tap all the way out, and then turn the tap back in by hand. It should screw in easily, yet firm.

Now you will need a reducing bushing. Threads on the outside of 3/8" and inside threads of 1/4". This is a reducer bushing commonly labeled 3/8" x 1/4" NPT also sometimes known as a Hex bushing 3/8"x1/4" NPT

Use only 4 wraps of teflon tape wrapping in a "Counter" clockwise rotation, on both the busing and the new pressure gauge.

Good Luck

Jun 07, 2014 | Hayward SAND FILTER, PRO SERIES

1 Answer

change fork oil street bob 2007


To change the oil or to rebuild a 2007 DYNA front fork FIRST raise and support the motorcycle so that the front end is off the floor and the forks are fully extended, remove the brake caliper and the front wheel, remove the front fender, loosen the pinch bolt screws, do not remove the tube caps, slide the fork sides downward clear of the fork brackets, repeat the procedure for the opposite fork tube and slider assembly.

To disassemble a 2007 DYNA front fork clamp the fork tube and slider assembly in a fork tube holder tool mounted horizontally in a vise, use a 12mm Allen wrench is needed to loosen but do not remove the seat pipe screw, while the internal components are still under tension and less prone to rotate, on the right fork tube and slider assembly, remove the axle holder to access the seat pipe screw, remove the fork tube cap and its o-ring, remove the long spring collar, remove the fork assembly from the fork tube holder tool and invert it over a suitable container to catch the fork oil and allowing thefork to drain, extend and retract the slider several times to push oil out of the internal fork components, the washer, and the spring will fall out of fork tube. THEN clamp the fork tube in the fork tube holder tool, remove the slider cover from the slider by inserting a brass drift into the notch in the slider and lightly tapping the cover loose, compress the stopper ring and remove the stopper ring from the groove in the top of the slider bore, Do not remove slider tube caps without relieving the spring preload or the caps and springs may fly out. THEN remove the seat pipe screw and its washer from the bottom of the slider and retain them for reuse, withdraw the slider from the fork tube until the bushing guide contacts the bushing on the fork tube (the bushing guide is a slight interference fit in the slider), then using the slider as a slide hammer, hit the bushing with the bushing guide with a quick continuous stroke until the slider is pulled free from the fork tube, drain the slider and allow the stop oil lock piece to fall free. (If you are only changing the oil or replacing the slider the remaining parts can be left assembled and the fork re-assembled) If it is still attached to the seat pipe remove the stop oil lock piece from the lower end of the seat pipe, remove the seat pipe piston and the ring assembly, remove the rebound spring, remove the oil seal, remove the seal spacer, and remove the bushing guide. Repeat the foregoing procedure for the opposite fork tube and slider assembly.

Thoroughly clean and inspect each part and if and as necessary replace any corroded, worn, bent, broken or otherwise damaged parts, inspect the fork tube bushing and the slider guide bushing and replace if and as required, always replace all oil seals and all o-rings, check the dust cover where it rubs on the fork tube (it should have a good and continuous seal and not show excessive wear, check the fork tube where it rubs on dust the cover and the tube should show a bright, shiny surface, free of scoring or abrasions, if any spring(s) is/are broken they must be replaced, if a fork tube or slider is bent or damaged it must also be replaced now, replace all other worn or damaged components if and as necessary.

To assemble a 2007 DYNA fork FIRST insert the seat pipe assembly with the spring into the slider tube, slide the bushing guide down to the bushing on the fork tube, follow it with the spacer, the oil seal, the stopper ring, the dust shield and the slider cover, install the fork tube into the fork tube holder tool, fit the lower stop onto the seat pipe, slide the seat pipe back into the fork tube until the seat pipe is centered in the tube, gently install the slider assembly onto the slider tube and the bushing, thread the seat pipe screw and washer into the seat pipe through the bottom of the slider assembly, draw the fastener into the seat pipe but do not tighten it at this time, verify the proper action of the fork by moving the slider up and down the fork tube, locate the appropriate fork seal driver over the fork tube in front of the oil seal with the fork seal chamfered lips facing the oil in the fork, in the following order assemble thetop oil seal, the spacer and the bushing guide into the slider bore, install the stopper ring into its groove above the oil seal, push the dust seal against the oil seal and stopper ring, rotate the slider cover to match any removal burrs to the notch in the slider and snap the slider cover into place. THEN operate the slider through its full range of travel several times to verify alignment and proper smooth operation, then pulling down on the slide to apply downward force on the rebound spring, tighten the seat pipe screw to 106-159 in-lbs (12-18 Nm), vertically re-position the fork tube into the fork tube holder tool and with the slider tube compressed, fill the fork with Harley-Davidson TYPE E FORK OIL until it is approximately the amount specified below for the type or motorcycle and fork that it is.

a. FXDWG- approximately 29.6 oz (875 cc) and distance from the top of the fork tube = 4.4 in (112 mm); and
b. All other Dyna models- approximately 26.6 oz (787 cc) and distance from the top of the fork tube = 4.3 in (110 mm)
THEN slowly pump the slider 8 to 10 times to remove air from the fork assembly and fully compress the slider to properly measure the oil level which is measured from the top of the fork tube, with the spacer and the spring removed and the fork fully compressed, then using an appropriate oil level gauge tool adjust the oil level to appropriate level for the fork type and model, pull out the slider and install the spring in the fork tube with the tightly wound end at the bottom, install the washer and the spring collar, carefully to avoid cross threading, install the fork tube cap with a new o-ring and tighten it to 16-43 ft-lbs (22-58 Nm). Repeat the process for the other fork tube and slider assembly.

To install the fork in a 2007 DYNA FIRST insert the fork tube and the slider assemblies up through the lower triple clamp and the upper triple clamp so that the fork tubes will protrude above the upper triple clamp 0.450-0.500 in. (11.4-12.7 mm) with the measurement taken at the midpoint of the fork tube between the top surface of the triple clamp and the top of the fork cap and when properly positioned tighten the pinch bolts to 30-35 ft-lbs (41- 48 Nm), install the front fender and bracket, install the front brake caliper(s), install the front wheel and align the wheel to the forks.

May 11, 2014 | 2006 Harley Davidson FXDBI Street Bob

1 Answer

worn shifter bushing


Use a deep socket big enough for the bushing to fit inside.
Use that to back up the old bushing, use the new bushing to press out the old one, and a big "C" clamp or vise to provide the power.

Dec 15, 2013 | 2005 Harley Davidson FLHRS - FLHRSI Road...

1 Answer

2001 pt cruiser front end bushings


I am assuming you are talking about the lower control arm rear bushing which is common to these vehicles. The arm must be removed. the bushing is pressed in and out of the arm but a hammer and some other tools can be used instead of a press. the key is finding a socket or pipe that fits over rubber of bushing catching the metal sleeve to drive the bushing in place. trying to install bushing by hitting on rubber without pipe or socket will never work. also some parts stores rent or lend tools a ball joint press works well.

Apr 14, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

my drain hole is stripped on my hayward pool pump. the threads are completely gone as i was trying to put a metal fitting in the hole for the use of an ozone generator. can i re thread the hole? it is a plastic housing like most pool pumps


There are a couple of ways to do this repair, First way is to buy a reducer bushing (threads on the inside and smooth surface on the outside), drill out the hole to tightly fit the bushing, and prime and glue it in place. The second way is to buy a tap (the next size up), buy a brass reduser bushing with threads on both the inside and outside. If you dont have enough material to inxdease thr hole size, then you will need to buy some J.B. weld and fill the hole, wait 16 to 25 hours to drill and tap

Jun 14, 2009 | Hayward SAND FILTER, PRO SERIES

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