Tip & How-To about Welding Tools

How to solder Aluminium and Copper

To solder aluminum and a copper wire? You do not need any special tools or equipment - just use the standard soldering iron, traditional SnPb solder, grease (lubricant) and sandpaper.
Apply grease to the soldered aluminum surface, regrind this "greasy" surface with sandpaper so excite the surface layer of aluminum oxide (Al2O3). Grease prevent air going to the purified aluminum and its rapid re-oxidation to the Al2O3 and lets to adhere molten SnPb solder to aluminum. Once the aluminum surface is covered with a layer of SnPb solder ("tinned"), clean it with a degreasing agent out of grease and may be normal solder to another "solder-tinned" material - for example, a copper wire.

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wont heat enough to solder


Hello, does your solder iron --Weller- humming? Also, is the solder tips the right tips for you Weller woldering gun? Are the tips tightened on the end of the solder gun prongs?

Well, if it is humming there is internal short in the windings inside of the gun. Don't mess with. Recyle it by taking the copper, brass, aluminum, and other metal out. Now, if it is not humming.
Make sure you have right tips, make sure that the tip is tightened in the soldering gun prongs.

The working principal of these soldering guns is that they work on low voltage and very high current. The current is regulated to keep the tip from burning into. Just enough current to heat the tipe to a certain temperature.. It can shock you but there not enough voltage with current but it will hurt. and could burn you. Be careful and lots of luck...GB...stewbison

Aug 04, 2011 | Weller Standard Tip: 7200

1 Answer

Having trouble with solder sticking with metal to metal applications


Soldering is intended for soldering alloys together such as copper, silver, gold....solder does not stick well to steel and aluminum...also, you need to use a flux when soldering...this flux cleans the connections of impurities and allows the solder to stick to the metals to be joined...Judging by the iron that you have...it looks like it is mainly used for very small soldering applications where not too much heat is required...If you want to solder larger items(such as soldering to a metal chassis) then I would recommend using a soldering iron or soldering gun with more wattage

Jan 16, 2011 | Weller Bp860mp Battery Powered Soldering...

2 Answers

How to replace capacitors?


Providing a solution regarding replacing Electrolytic Capacitors on a Motherboard.
Low voltage, low capacitance.

(Not for a Power Supply)


This is not regarding the newer motherboard's that use Solid Capacitors.
This is regarding Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors.

First look at the manufacturer's identifying marks on the capacitor. The Capacitance, (Microfarad), and Voltage is not always shown.

This link will help in that regard,

http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/How-to-Identify-Japanese-Electrolytic-Capacitors/595

Also look at the physical size in regards to the outer diameter of the capacitor, (How big around it is), and the height. (How tall it is)
You can't put an elephant into a gunny sack.

This is one place to procure Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors. (There are lots of places online. Probably VERY, very few, in your local area. JMHO)

http://www.mouser.com/Passive-Components/Capacitors/Aluminum-Electrolytic-Capacitors/Aluminum-Electrolytic-Capacitors-Leaded/_/N-75hqw?Keyword=radial+aluminum+electrolytic+capacitor&FS=True

Need help in finding a particular radial aluminum electrolytic capacitor, or help in navigating the website above, please post in a Comment.

De-soldering/Soldering:

I recommend a soldering iron of no more than 50 Watts. No.2 Chisel tip. Have a soldering iron stand.
Have a damp sponge nearby for regularly cleaning the soldering iron tip, if the soldering iron stand does not have one in the base.

Rosin core solder. I use .055, but you can use .030 if that's all that is available. (Diameter of solder in thousandths)
Use in a WELL ventilated area. Have a fan pushing air over your shoulder.

Use Solder Wick (Desoldering Braid) for desoldering. I can't say enough bad things about a Vacuum Desoldering Tool)
(Solder S u c k e r Tool. {Another name, not a reference to being 'cute')

Use an ESD wrist strap. (Electro Static Discharge) Average cost is around $3 to $8, and will save your motherboard from static shock.
Computer case on the table you're working on, connect the alligator clip of the ESD wrist strap to the metal frame, of the empty desktop computer case.
If this is in reference to a laptop motherboard, find a good ground source to connect that alligator clip to.

Mark the leads of the capacitor/s you wish to remove, on the bottom of the motherboard. Make a mark nearby on the motherboard.

Observe the markings on the capacitor. A capacitor has a Positive lead, and a Negative lead. You DON'T want to mix them up as you install the new capacitor. Most of the time the Negative lead is marked with a negative symbol. ( - )
{NOTE*
IF you install a capacitor's leads backwards, it will explode, when you provide power to the computer, and/or power up the computer}


Motherboard upside down, on the top of the motherboard, hold the capacitor with your fingers, and thumb. As you apply heat to each lead of the capacitor, you are going to ease each lead out a little at a time.

You DON'T want excessive heat going to the motherboard. This can render the copper circuit trace useless. It will burn, and will not take solder tinning again.
Excessive heat can also lift the circuit trace right off of the motherboard.

[ Circuit Trace. Also known as Signal Trace:
A motherboard is made up of layers that are laminated together.

For simplification let me state that a copper sheet is laminated on the top side.
There is a masking agent applied to the copper sheet, then acid is used to wash away the area that is not needed.
{Again another simplification as there are many other methods used}

Areas that may be left are large copper areas, that have what looks to be flat, thin copper wires, connecting to them ]

Heat one lead's solder connection just enough that the solder starts to melt, while applying pressure on the body of the capacitor, to draw against THAT lead.
The lead will only come up so far.
This is okay.

Now go to the other lead, and do the same. Ease it up so far.
Let the solder cool for a moment, and the motherboard.
Now go back, and continue easing the leads up, until they come up, and out.

Clean the circuit trace area the capacitor lead came out of. There will be a residue left behind, and this needs to be removed.
I use Isopropyl Alcohol to clean off the residue. (Rubbing alcohol)

NOTE*
Make sure the soldering iron is unplugged, and well away from the motherboard.
Isopropyl Alcohol is EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE!

Use an old toothbrush with the alcohol.

If all of the solder came off of the circuit trace area, where the capacitor lead was soldered to, (Hole and copper circuit trace area around the hole), you will have to lightly re-tin the area.
Tinning is to apply a thin coat of solder.

If the capacitor's leads are not pre-tinned, (Most are however), you need to tin them.
You may find that the tinning has covered the hole for the capacitor lead.
Not to worry.
Place the leads against the holes from the top side of the motherboard. As you heat the tinned area, the leads will poke up through the holes.

If you find this is not to your liking, you can use a solder pick to GENTLY ease the hole open.
I don't like this method, because there is a chance the solder pick's sides will grab the soft copper circuit trace going around the hole, and cause irreparable damage.

Once the capacitor's leads are in place, apply solder correctly to each lead at the circuit trace area.
Hold the capacitor from moving until the solder has cooled.

You may find this helpful,

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I_NU2ruzyc4

Regards,
joecoolvette

Oct 27, 2010 | Computers & Internet

1 Answer

What kind of soder do i need


Sorry, this iron will not do the job. Yes the temp is higher than the solder, but once you touch it to the work, the heat is gone in Aluminim as it conducts heat at a very high rate. You need more wattage AND the upper heat level. A flame powered tool might be more appropriate. Contact Weller on their web site for recomendation

http://www.cooperhandtools.com/brands/weller/

Good Luck

Jan 09, 2009 | Black & Decker Black Decker Dualtemp...

1 Answer

flyback


Yes it has to be resoldered you will need some special tools a good solder iron solder wick to remove solder a solder ****** and good solder without acid core you will need to remove the wires on the flyback be careful

Nov 14, 2008 | RCA D52W19 52" Rear Projection Television

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