Tip & How-To about Washing Machines
Also similar Machines, KAW393, KAW351, KAW793
Ok, our 22 year old 1992 Kleenmaid KAW651 WG3050 gave sign of a possible demise with evidence of water leaking from under the machine over a relatively short period perhaps 3 days, which was enough time to get our attention to investigate the cause.
Water could be seen to emerge from the central drive area underneath the main drum. Found several internet references to the likely diagnosis and repair parts list, .. Replace Hub & Seal at base of drum. Kit is KS646P3A Search eBay to purchase.
A history of dirt residue on some clothes had been observed over perhaps a year. If you have this problem, the photos enclosed will show that the filter is NOT self-cleaning, so a partial execution of the actions to remove and clean the filter may help fix the residue on clothes.
The following is my progression through disassembly, parts replacement, and eventual reassembly. The point of this e exercise is to give the user a general idea of what to expect at each subsequent stage hopefully providing an additional level of confidence. Cost? A bit less than $200, plus $80 special tools (Gear Puller and 38mm Socket) purchased.
I am an occasional home handyman, who is rarely found in the garage, but grew up with a father that always was.
Before proceeding, search online for the Kleenmaid Technical & Spare Parts Manual, (found online as kaw651.pdf). It contains exploded part numbers & diagrams, no instructions on procedure. Download it, as it is essential to assist with your decision to proceed or toss. In the following, I will refer to the above as The Manual
The online assessment of difficulty ranged from easy to moderate to dont bother, but as our machine had served us well for 22 years, I thought I would investigate further before consigning her to the local metal re-cycling depot.
The Instruction manual supplied with the Hub & Seal Kit KS646P3A is good for re-assembly, but contains only modest real assistance for disassembly.
(1) Remove the Front Panel of the Machine (2x Hex Head Screws at front-base).
(2) Remove main (White Plastic) Agitator.
Top Soap-Bleach dispenser unclips, pulls off easily, with the main Agitator requiring a very firm pull to remove. The Manual indicates a special tool can be used (to pull the agitator upwards), however just knowing that it is not otherwise fixed is all you really need to know. (See Photo 10)
(3) Remove Plastic Drive
I didnt have a Gear Puller, but you will need a BIG one. I purchased a Repco 3-Jaw Gear Puller RST-153 from an Australian Automotive Parts dealer Cost was $50. (A 2-Jaw puller would be quite ok, and possibly better later in the project, however Repcos 2-Jaw unit was too small.). [Note the design of the Drive Bell has changed slightly, but is still compatible]
Removing the Drive bell requires a very long pull distance, which was only achieved by screwing successively longer bolts into the end of the main drive shaft, for the puller to push against. I used 2 bolts (1-4 inch Whitworth) up to 2 inches in length for the task.
I have to say that I almost stopped at this point due to the unbelievable level of **** and corrosion revealed with the Drive Bell Removed. (See Photo 19)
(4) Removal of Stainless Steel Drum.
If not already done, you will need to unbolt the TOP of the machine, (2 Bolts underside, front-top) which swings back through 90 degrees and will sit in that position happily enough, so does not require absolute removal. There is no real need to remove the Instrument Panel.
The White Plastic Clothes Guard that runs around to top circumference of the S-S Drum (Part 32989 P.10 Manual), will need to be unclipped if not done already.
Four Bolts hold the main S-S Drum to the Drive Hub. These bolts were caked in rubbish and not easy to remove, however once loose, the inner drum came out easily enough.
With the S-S Drum removed a minor bout of depression needs to be overcome, as the full extent of the mayhem lies before you. In our case, the Lint Filter was more of a sludge collector than anything, and the inside of the tub looked like a rubbish bin.
(5) Remove Lint Filter.
This was done by carefully prising underneath it; variously with a brickies bolster, a paint scraper, and a screwdriver. No wonder some of our darker clothes had tide marks on them! (See Photos 23, 24)
(6) Remove Main Shaft LockNut (29220 P.10 in Manual).
This little sucker was the biggest problem without a doubt. I tried without success to loosen it with WD-40, shifters, ring-spanners, hammers, etc. The Drum would rotate, and I simply could not get enough purchase to move it.
Success required a borrowed Hammer Wrench with a purchased 38mm Hex-Driver (Boxo SKIT4060-038L, $30 from Sydney Tools in Botany, NSW). With the right tools it was loose in less than a second.
(7) Remove Hub & Seal.
The Hub simply disintegrated when the Gear Puller was applied and tensioned; the 3-Jaw puller helped to destroy it because the pull was applied at 3 x 120 degree increments, whereas the hub had 90 degree strengthening around its aluminium circumference. The Hub at this stage bears absolutely NO resemblance to the shiny, new replacement Hub found photographed in the online Hub & Seal Kit package.
Remove the Seal underneath the Hub, which in our case was a seal in name only. Also remove (now or later) the hardened rusty-red residue of the previous sealer. (See Photos 26, 27, 29)
(8) Partial Disassemble of the Side-Rear Outside panels.
The aim is to allow access to the main Enamel Outer Tub (33178), which is removed in the next step. Leave the two sides, and the back bolted together, just unbolt these 3 panels from the base (two screws each side) allowing them to be moved a small distance to the sides or rear. Remove the Top Water Inlet Hose (33186), and unclip the Pressure (sensing) Hose (29213) from where it clips to the side of the Outer Tub.
(9) Removal of the Outer Tub
Unclip the 5 Centering Spings (27239), making note as to their original tensioning position (each has 2 two positions, one slightly tighter than the other). Unbolt the 2 bolts from the top of each of the 3 support legs and Outer Tub. Be sure to make a note as to the orientation of the inside and outer aluminium Leg Plates, one pair for each leg. Disconnect the drain hose (27153) running from below the Outer Tub to the water Pump. The Outer Tub should now just pull away, perhaps with the controlled assistance of a hammer to the top of the drive shaft.
Ok, at this stage the worst is over, just follow the instructions to replace the parts, and re-assemble.
I didn't use the 3M-800 Sealant $25-$45-$77 as noted in the kit, but used a Dow Corning 732 Sealant as recommended by a long time repairer. Available from a local Ship Chandler $13.
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