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KleenMaid Washing Machine KAW651 Hub & Seal Replacement (QuickReview)

Also similar Machines, KAW393, KAW351, KAW793

Ok, our 22 year old 1992 Kleenmaid KAW651 WG3050 gave sign of a possible demise with evidence of water leaking from under the machine over a relatively short period perhaps 3 days, which was enough time to get our attention to investigate the cause.

Water could be seen to emerge from the central drive area underneath the main drum. Found several internet references to the likely diagnosis and repair parts list, .. Replace Hub & Seal at base of drum. Kit is KS646P3A Search eBay to purchase.

A history of dirt residue on some clothes had been observed over perhaps a year. If you have this problem, the photos enclosed will show that the filter is NOT self-cleaning, so a partial execution of the actions to remove and clean the filter may help fix the residue on clothes.

The following is my progression through disassembly, parts replacement, and eventual reassembly. The point of this e exercise is to give the user a general idea of what to expect at each subsequent stage hopefully providing an additional level of confidence. Cost? A bit less than $200, plus $80 special tools (Gear Puller and 38mm Socket) purchased.

I am an occasional home handyman, who is rarely found in the garage, but grew up with a father that always was.

Before proceeding, search online for the Kleenmaid Technical & Spare Parts Manual, (found online as kaw651.pdf). It contains exploded part numbers & diagrams, no instructions on procedure. Download it, as it is essential to assist with your decision to proceed or toss. In the following, I will refer to the above as The Manual

The online assessment of difficulty ranged from easy to moderate to dont bother, but as our machine had served us well for 22 years, I thought I would investigate further before consigning her to the local metal re-cycling depot.

The Instruction manual supplied with the Hub & Seal Kit KS646P3A is good for re-assembly, but contains only modest real assistance for disassembly.

(1) Remove the Front Panel of the Machine (2x Hex Head Screws at front-base).

(2) Remove main (White Plastic) Agitator.
Top Soap-Bleach dispenser unclips, pulls off easily, with the main Agitator requiring a very firm pull to remove. The Manual indicates a special tool can be used (to pull the agitator upwards), however just knowing that it is not otherwise fixed is all you really need to know. (See Photo 10)


(3) Remove Plastic Drive Bell (Part 30071P, Manual Page 9).
I didnt have a Gear Puller, but you will need a BIG one. I purchased a Repco 3-Jaw Gear Puller RST-153 from an Australian Automotive Parts dealer Cost was $50. (A 2-Jaw puller would be quite ok, and possibly better later in the project, however Repcos 2-Jaw unit was too small.). [Note the design of the Drive Bell has changed slightly, but is still compatible]

Removing the Drive bell requires a very long pull distance, which was only achieved by screwing successively longer bolts into the end of the main drive shaft, for the puller to push against. I used 2 bolts (1-4 inch Whitworth) up to 2 inches in length for the task.

I have to say that I almost stopped at this point due to the unbelievable level of **** and corrosion revealed with the Drive Bell Removed. (See Photo 19)


(4) Removal of Stainless Steel Drum.
If not already done, you will need to unbolt the TOP of the machine, (2 Bolts underside, front-top) which swings back through 90 degrees and will sit in that position happily enough, so does not require absolute removal. There is no real need to remove the Instrument Panel.

The White Plastic Clothes Guard that runs around to top circumference of the S-S Drum (Part 32989 P.10 Manual), will need to be unclipped if not done already.
Four Bolts hold the main S-S Drum to the Drive Hub. These bolts were caked in rubbish and not easy to remove, however once loose, the inner drum came out easily enough.

With the S-S Drum removed a minor bout of depression needs to be overcome, as the full extent of the mayhem lies before you. In our case, the Lint Filter was more of a sludge collector than anything, and the inside of the tub looked like a rubbish bin.

(5) Remove Lint Filter.
This was done by carefully prising underneath it; variously with a brickies bolster, a paint scraper, and a screwdriver. No wonder some of our darker clothes had tide marks on them! (See Photos 23, 24)



(6) Remove Main Shaft LockNut (29220 P.10 in Manual).
This little sucker was the biggest problem without a doubt. I tried without success to loosen it with WD-40, shifters, ring-spanners, hammers, etc. The Drum would rotate, and I simply could not get enough purchase to move it.

Success required a borrowed Hammer Wrench with a purchased 38mm Hex-Driver (Boxo SKIT4060-038L, $30 from Sydney Tools in Botany, NSW). With the right tools it was loose in less than a second.

(7) Remove Hub & Seal.
The Hub simply disintegrated when the Gear Puller was applied and tensioned; the 3-Jaw puller helped to destroy it because the pull was applied at 3 x 120 degree increments, whereas the hub had 90 degree strengthening around its aluminium circumference. The Hub at this stage bears absolutely NO resemblance to the shiny, new replacement Hub found photographed in the online Hub & Seal Kit package.
Remove the Seal underneath the Hub, which in our case was a seal in name only. Also remove (now or later) the hardened rusty-red residue of the previous sealer. (See Photos 26, 27, 29)




(8) Partial Disassemble of the Side-Rear Outside panels.
The aim is to allow access to the main Enamel Outer Tub (33178), which is removed in the next step. Leave the two sides, and the back bolted together, just unbolt these 3 panels from the base (two screws each side) allowing them to be moved a small distance to the sides or rear. Remove the Top Water Inlet Hose (33186), and unclip the Pressure (sensing) Hose (29213) from where it clips to the side of the Outer Tub.

(9) Removal of the Outer Tub
Unclip the 5 Centering Spings (27239), making note as to their original tensioning position (each has 2 two positions, one slightly tighter than the other). Unbolt the 2 bolts from the top of each of the 3 support legs and Outer Tub. Be sure to make a note as to the orientation of the inside and outer aluminium Leg Plates, one pair for each leg. Disconnect the drain hose (27153) running from below the Outer Tub to the water Pump. The Outer Tub should now just pull away, perhaps with the controlled assistance of a hammer to the top of the drive shaft.

Ok, at this stage the worst is over, just follow the instructions to replace the parts, and re-assemble.

I didn't use the 3M-800
Sealant $25-$45-$77 as noted in the kit, but used a Dow Corning 732 Sealant as recommended by a long time repairer. Available from a local Ship Chandler $13.

Note: Replacement of the two main bearings was recommended by experts, particularly the top one (above the transmission) as it is most likely to suffer in the case of water leaks. I also replaced the main drive Belt as it had many small cracks. Because of the rust on the Outer Drum (enamel) I also used a Rust Converting paint,. then undercoated and re-painted it. This machine had better last....

I did have an issue following re-assembly, due to in incorrect alignment-position of the small Helix (27018, P.12) located at the base of the drive shaft below the transmission assembly. (Gearbox)

The Helix controls the Gearbox to operate in either reciprocating washer action, or spin mode. It was initially stuck mid-position, which caused the machine to rotate at full spin speed whilst rotating in the Wash-mode (Pump Off). The centrifugal action started to overflow the tub causing a panic switch-off. Manually rotating the Helix fixed the issue.

Rotating the shaft in the correct direction either drops or raises the drive mechanism to engage-release either the spin mode or wash mode. (Tub rotates clockwise in spin mode, reversed in wash mode). (See Helix Image 48 below)


Good Luck

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1 Answer

how do i get the agitator out of a Kleenmaid kaw651

This answer comes 3+ years after your original question, mainly to clarify the first answer, which seems to mildly inflate the difficulty of repair.

At the top of the white plastic agitator is a small reservoir for extra detergent/rinse aid/whatever, it just clips on/off so easy to remove. Removing it is not 100% necessary, but protects it during the next stage.

The agitator is a 'push fit' over the main drive shaft, and 'drive bell', which it 'clips' over. Translate: 'It just pulls off'. Admittedly it may require a fair tug, but not exactly daunting or complicated, and certainly falls a little short of "strip down most of the unit..." ??

I would expect that is all you need to do to expose the area where the cord is tangled.

The enclosed image is from a 22 year old machine with an accumulation of dirt and rubbish underneath. Yuck!

Jul 29, 2011 | Washing Machines

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sorry to saybut you would probley need to stripp down most of the unit...to remove chord.

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How do you remove agitator in Kleenmaid KAW793?

The agitator just pulls off- they can be very tight!! You need to get your fingers under each side of agitator and pull up. Kleenmaid do have a special tool to make this easier, but I have always managed to pull them out by hand with a good firm sharp pull upwards. To refit, just put it over the drive bell ( the plastic thing underneath agitator) and give it bit of a whack to clip it on. Good luck!!

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kleen maid washer leaking seals

normally i would replace brake pads $44.tub seal $ 160 belt $55 and pulley assy on gearbox $ 65 its not a hard job but if you have never done one it may be trikky.also make sure the gearbox shaft under the agitator isnt wobbling if it is buy a new machine.

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