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How to do a quick brake fluid service

Get a turkey baster and insert a small rubber hose on the end, now put a can of wooden block under the brake peddle in the car so it doesn't drop or sink down.
do not start engine for this , just **** out the fluid from the filler . and always leave a little in there to cover the master cylinder in there, now pour fresh brake fluid in there and put the cap on and remove the wood or can under the brake peddle and push steady on it . now test drive it back and forth a few times in the drive way , the fluid will stay clean for a good year or so to do it again.

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how to bleed front brakes for my bike

They all work EXACTLY the same way.
Before starting: Take this opportunity to inspect hoses. If damaged or weather-cracked, replace before continuing.

Obtain the following:

a) a fresh container of brake fluid, as specified in your owner\'s handbook;

b) a short length of clear hose (~3 ft) that fits the bleed screw on your caliper snuggly. Typically, this is 1/4" i.d.

c) a small container (e.g. empty tin can) which you will use to collect the waste fluid. (Note: This should be something that resists tipping over. Brake fluid is very good for removing paint, so be careful in all aspects.)

d) small spanner (i.e. wrench) to loosen the bleeder screw on your caliper.

The caliper holds the brake pucks (also called, \'pads\') and is located on your front fork, straddling the brake disc. The bleeder screw is mounted near the top of the caliper, possibly beneath a protective rubber cap. You will know it\'s the right thing, because after you remove the cap you will see the bleeder screw has a hole in it, pointed downwards, into the caliper. Fluid will pass through that hole.)

e) electrical tape, or similar (~1 ft).

f) lint-free absorbent rags, or similar.

g) if required, screwdriver to remove brake fluid reservoir cap.

h) cheap turkey baster

I) recommended, bungee cord, or similar (purpose described below).


Work only in a dust-free, wind-free environment with good light.


Clean area around master cylinder on handlebar, reservoir cap, fluid hose junctions and bleeder screw on caliper. (Remove and retain protective cap, if fitted.)


Place bike on centre stand swing forks to full left lock, holding in place with bungee cord.

This steadies things and reduces the chance of spillage.


Fit hose over bleeder securely. (NO LEAKS.)

Depending on your system, you may find slipping the closed end of your spanner over the bleeder nut first gives a better grip than you\'re likely to get using the open end on the flats of the bleeder. But --also depending on you system-- you may find the thickness of the spanner holds the hose off, prohibiting a snug fit.


Arc the hose up the fork leg about a foot and secure it with the tape; then place the free end of the hose into the container.

There is no need to pre-fill with clean brake fluid. This is a motorcycle, not a truck. There isn\'t enough back-draw to warrant it.


Remove the reservoir filler cap on the master cylinder and any baffle that sits beneath the cap and over the surface of the fluid.

a) Clean and inspect the components.


Using the turkey baster, suck out as much of the existing brake fluid in the master cylinder reservoir as possible.

a) Clean interior of reservoir with rags.

Be careful regarding spillage of the paint-devouring brake fluid!


Replenish the fluid in the reservoir to the "Full" mark.

Now, here\'s the magic...


While applying SLIGHT pressure on the brake lever, loosen the bleed screw 1/4 ~ 1/2 turn.


Continue to apply SLOW and steady pressure on the lever.

The contaminated brake fluid will be expelled out the hose, up and over the loop on the front fork and down, into to container.


BEFORE YOUR LEVER TOUCHES THE GRIP, close the bleeder screw. (Two finger draw is all that is required.)


Allow the brake lever to return to full extension and repeat from step 10.


Ensure the brake fluid in the master cylinder reservoir does not drop below half way.

The contaminated fluid cannot return to the caliper because it\'s constantly being forced out, until such time as the bleeder nut seals the connection to the hose.

Observe the initial colour of the brake fluid; when it changes (often quite abruptly) the new fluid has purged the system.


Again continue from step 10, this time rapping the master cylinder with the handle of your screwdriver to loosen any air bubbles.

When no air bubbles are expelled, continue from step 15.


Top up the fluid to the "Full" mark again and perform one more pump, this time ensuring the bleeder screw is well set before the brake lever can touch the grip.

At no time in this process, does the brake lever actually bottom out and touch the grip.

The main point is: the bleeder screw is off its seat only when the brake lever is in movement. That means the screw is tight again before the lever reaches the end of its stroke.


If required, top up the brake fluid again and fit the baffle and cap.

Beware of spillage due to over-filling.


Remove the hose from the bleeder screw (Ensure the bleeder is snug, once more) and fit the protective cap, if fitted.


Dispose of the fluid and container according to your local legislation. (Usually gas stations don\'t mind getting rid of it for you if you\'re a customer.)

Clean the turkey baster and retain it for the next time.

If you have twin disks, bleed the one left one first; it\'s further from your master cylinder.

I hope this helps.



Ottawa -- Canada

May 06, 2014 | 2004 Suzuki Intruder 1400

1 Answer

the passenger-side floor is soaked! What all problems could cause this?

Is it soaked with water or antifreeze? Hopefully, it is water. If it is antifreeze you need to have the heater core replaced. If it is water, the culprit is a clogged AC drain line. You should be able to find the end of the hose under the car somewhere directly under the heater/ac unit. It is usually a rubber hose with about a 3/8 inch inside diameter. They get clogged at the AC with dirt and dust. You can try a very flexible wire or use a turkey baster and pump water back up the hose to force the clog up. You may have to do that several times since the back flush doesn't get the clog out, Hopefully it will break it up and the water will flush it out. Some times the wire works better. Be careful not to use anything that might pierce or cut the hose. If the car has a cabin filter in the heater/AC blower, be sure it is clean. Replace it if necessary.


Aug 15, 2011 | 2003 Saturn L-Series

1 Answer

Water drips from the back upper area inside the refrigerator. Sometimes I find a small puddle of water on the floor. It is only 6years old. Model CTB1821ARW

Look at the back wall of your fridge and at the top centre you will see a small plastic tray about one and a quarter inch square, this is part of the drain system for the freezer defrost cycle, you will find that the drain tube from this tray is blocked with debris from the freezer.

To clear the blockage:
At the outside rear of the fridge you will see a rubber tube that runs down the centre and disappears under the lower section where the compressor is located, pull off the grill below the fridge section door at the front of the unit, locate and remove the water evaporation tray, locate the the end of the aformentioned rubber tube, insert the end of a water filled baster into the end of the tube and hold it securely in place with one hand and then squeeze the baster bulb with the other hand to force water up the tube, you may have to do this more than once but it should clear the blockage, if not you may have to use a short blast from a air hose.
When you replace the evaporation tray ensure that the end of the rubber drain hose is located in the tray.

Good luck!

Aug 12, 2011 | Maytag Microwave Ovens

1 Answer

Have to replace my master cylinder and just not sure how to sepparate the linkage from the brake peddle

When replacing a brake system master cylinder you do not need to mess with the peddle that I know of. There should be two bolts on the master cyl. to unbolt it from the booster. You do not give Model or year, but the internal rod linkage will stay put as you remove the master cyl. It is best to get out as much fluid as you can, (old turkey baster). As brake fluid will ruin auto paint quickly. Remove any wires and brake lines, unbolt it from the booster and shes out. Hope this helps Fix Ya up.

Jul 16, 2011 | Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Changing the final drive oil on a 2006 r 1200 gs

I use a turkey baster and about six inches of fuel line. Put the fuel line into the final drive, then squeeze the bulb of the turkey baster and then put then protruding end of the hose against the end of the baster and **** the oil out of there. The final drive only holds a pint or so. My old K bike had an allen head drain plug, I guess the newer final drives have been "upgraded".

Jan 04, 2009 | 2006 BMW R 1200 GS

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