Tip & How-To about Aube TH144HPN2H1C Thermostat: Heat-Pump HVAC; Non-Prog

How to wire your new themostat

The heater has a transformer that steps down the line voltage supplied either 115v or 230v to 24 volts,a safe voltage to use for the thermostat's control voltage and a voltage which requires no license to install.
The most important thing to remember before you begin is that ,
Red or R is the "hot leg" of the 24 volts provided by the transformer and
Common or C is the "neutral leg" of the 24 volts provided by the transformer and
Common is the side of power which EVERY 24 volt circuit will terminate or return to in completing the circuit, thus the "Common " designation, note after each circuits device, be it AC or Heat or Fan,every 24 volt circuit returns to Common or it's circuit is not completed.
Every electric circuit ,regardless of voltage or polarity requires a device ,
without a device in a circuit, upon energizing that circuit it will be a direct short!
Red to Common, this will blow the fuse or worse the transformer if not protected by a fuse which some are not. If you have a device in the circuit you can energize a circuit, my point being do not let Red touch Common and as Common is grounded at the transformer, do not let Red touch any metal, as it is likely grounded too, so turn off power before doing anything.
Note the color of the wiring attached to your existing thermostat's terminals and make a diagram so you will not forget.
The new thermostat may have different terminals or more that you will not be using.
All thermostats have an R or Red terminal, it may be RC and an RH 2 separate terminals designating RC as red cool and RH as red heat.
There 2 terminals RC and RH are for 2 transformer systems which are obsolete old GE units so if you do have both RC and RH use a small jumper wire and connect the 2 terminals and wire the Red "hot leg" from the transformer to either RC or RH it will not matter if both are jumpered together, otherwise you will only have cooling or heating but not both available.
The Red hot leg of the 24 volts enters the thermostat on R and most modern thermostats are parasitically powered meaning they derive power from the heaters transformer, as a result the Common 24 volt neutral leg must be ran to the thermostat.
Note, the new NEST thermostats say they do not require Common to be wired, however 50% of the time the NEST will go dead in time and require a Common wire be used to power the thermostat satisfactorily.
Upon a call for heat the switch between the Red and White circuit closes making white electrically hot with the 24 volts which it sends out the white wire to the heater gas valve etc and return to common to complete the heat circuit.
Upon a call for AC the switch to Yellow closes and as you will notice the Fan switch on the thermostat has an AUTO and ON switch, in the AUTO position, upon a call for AC
the Yellow becomes hot with the 24 volts and as a result of the AUTO switch being closed, the indoor blower will automatically cycle as required.
The fan control for ON fan or AC is High speed, the fan control for heat is Low speed and controlled by a time or temperature delay at the initiation and termination of the heat cycle, this is to eliminate cold air from blowing until the heater warms up and upon termination it extracts the residual heat to not overheat the unit and be most efficient.
Green is the Fan circuit, it is the High speed fan and only used for heating with electric heaters as resistive heat strips or heat pumps and will be controlled in both heat and cool modes by the thermostat, this is designed in to the thermostat or part of the thermostats set up and programming if a universal type thermostat.
Common as explained is there to power the thermostat it being the other side of 24 volt power opposite from the red 24 volt hot leg.
Heat pumps will have an O and a B terminal, this gets the Orange wire on O if the reversing valve is energized in cool mode, if you get heat in the cool mode switch the Orange wire from O and put it on B, B is energized in the Heat mode.

This was not written for just heat pumps or any brand I had to pick a specific brand however this applies to all brands and types gas furnaces , heat pumps and electric heat.

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compressor want come on

Here is what to do . Pull out or turn off Electrical disconnect behind unit . Carefully remove panel covering controls in unit . Note most units have a flat panel with a few screws, but some GE units have a welded metal box on top of unit which needs to be removed. After exposing controls. replace or turn on disconnect. Then take a plastic handled screwdriver and push in on center of contactor (boxlike part with a lot of wires hooked ) If the compressor now comes on release contactor , and check for 24 Volts AC at base of contactor where thermostat (small wires that run on outside of black refrigerant line ) with thermostat on and calling for cool you should measure 24 to 28 volts . If voltage is present replace contactor after disconnecting from power. If no voltage go inside , remove cover from thermostat, and check for 24 volts between red ( R) and yellow (Y ) terminals on thermostat , If voltage is present , replace thermostat , no voltage check voltage in heater / air handler if you have voltage at air handler , replace thermostat wire from heater to thermostat / if no voltage check for blown fuse in heater , this should be either an inline fuse or an automotive type fuse plugged into circuit board (with power to heater disconnected check broken wire or black mark in fuse when held up to light. If fuse good turn on power to heater and check for 230v to one side of transformer, if you get voltage to Primary (incoming side ) of transformer, check output side of transformer for 24 - 28 volts. If transformer shows input but no output replace transformer after turning power off. If you heard a buzzing or grinding noise , when pushing in contactor , but compressor didn't start look at run capacitor (this is round or oval shaped object with wires going to contactor and compressor ) Looking at area where wires plug this should be a flat surface , if it looks domed shaped or bulging out , it is blown and needs replaced , use same mfd rating and 440 Volts to be on safe side. / If there was no noise from compressor when contactor was pushed in , put your hand on top of compressor (black object in center of unit ) If hot , allow to cool for at least three hours with power to unit turned off and retest . If compressor comes on after cooling , check for bad fan motor in outside unit (it may make a squealing or wining noise and stop runing for a while , also check for / clean outdoor coils
Hope this helps .

Oct 04, 2014 | Carrier Comfort 3.0 Ton 13 Seer Ac Only...

1 Answer

thermostat is new but no 24 vac at contactor

If you are handy with meters and electrical work try this.
Somewhere there is a small transformer that supplies the 24volts.
If you trace the wires from the contactor coil back to the big circuit board then the transformer is probably on that board. Make sure you are tracing the COIL wires. If the wires go to a small transformer mounted separately then your in luck. That transformer steps down the voltage to 24 volts used as a "control" voltage for the unit. If you have 24vac output at the transformer, and no 24vac at the contactor then a control or thermostat circuit is open.

Jul 11, 2012 | American Standard Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

i just bought a craftsman 6,5 hp. twin cyl. air compressor (minus the 60 gal tank) for $25. the seller ran the thing right in front me to show that it works. but like a moron i didn't inspect it as close as i should've. it's 230v not 115v.like i assumed. is there any way to convert or run a 230v electric motor to run on 115v ?

6.5 HP is equivalent to about 4.8kw. Now this would be ok if you were powering a resistive load such as a heater, possibly you could get a transformer to step up the voltage .The problem is that the motors on a compressor take a surge of current on startup (about 4 or 5 times the normal running current) so a transformer or generator would have to be oversized to compensate.
If you are in the States, I thought there were two voltage supplies in houses, 110 for small appliances and 230 v for high power appliances such as cookers, washing appliances etc ? Perhaps you could have a socket wired for 230 v ? In Europe we use a blue 3 pin socket for industrial appliances, 16A rated for welders etc and 32A for larger devices.

Feb 21, 2011 | Air Tools & Compressors

2 Answers

ok i neeed help!!!!!!!! on my power supply there is a switch which you can move to 115 volts to 230 volts. everytime i switch it to 230 volts the computer wont turn on? why is this happening? when i put it back on 115 volts, my computer turns on. why is this happening PLEASE HELP MEEE!!!!!!

This is the power supply for your PC, depend on your local country power supply, some country like North US may use 110 V in their daily use electrical stuff and some country like Euro, UK use 240 V.

Your PC power supply is design to suit this 2 type of power input so can be sold everywhere. What u need to do is to make sure your local country power supply voltage and then just switch the input correctly, i think u have done it.

YBC (/\)

Oct 20, 2009 | Computers & Internet

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