Tip & How-To about Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer

Whirlpool Dryer Various Test Procedures - Part 2

TEST #4 Heater
This test is performed when either of the following situations occur: Dryer does not heat Heat will not shut off
This test checks the components making up the heating circuit. The following items are part of this system:
Harness/connection, Heater relay, Thermal cut-off, Thermal fuse, High limit thermostat, Gas burner assembly,
Centrifugal switch, Exhaust thermistor, Machine control electronics, Gas supply. Dryer does not heat:
1. Unplug dryer or disconnect power.
2. Remove the back panel to access the thermal components.
3. Perform TEST #4b. If the thermal fuse is OK, go to step 4.
4. Perform TEST #4c. If the thermal cut-off is OK, go to step 5.
5. Locate the high limit thermostat. Measure the continuity through it by connecting the meter probes on the
red wire and blue wire terminals. If there is an open circuit, replace the high limit thermostat and thermal cutoff.
Otherwise, go to step 6.
6. Perform TEST #4d. If this is OK, replace the machine control electronics.
Heat will not shut off:
1. Unplug dryer or disconnect power.
2. Access the machine control electronics, remove the P14 connector, then measure the resistance between P14-3 (red-white wire) and P14-6 (red-white wire) at the connector. If 5–15 k ohms are measured, replace the machine control electronics. If the resistance is greater than 20 k ohms, replace the exhaust thermistor.
TEST #4a Exhaust Thermistor
The machine control electronics monitors the exhaust temperature using the exhaust thermistor, and cycles the heater relay on and off to maintain the desired temperature. Begin with an empty dryer and a clean lint screen.
1. Plug in dryer or reconnect power.
2. Start the Timed Dry cycle.
3. If after 60 seconds, F-22 or F-23 flashes in the display and the dryer shuts off, the thermistor or wire harness is either open or shorted. Unplug dryer or disconnect power. Check wire connections at the machine control electronics and thermistor. If wire connections are OK, check exhaust thermistor resistance per step 5.
4. If F-22 or F-23 does not flash in the display, the connections to the thermistor are good. Therefore, check the exhaust temperature value at any or all of the temperature levels in question, using the Timed Dry cycle, and the following process: Hold a glass bulb thermometer capable of reading from 90° to 180°F (32° to 82°C)
in the center of the exhaust outlet. The correct exhaust temperatures are as follows:
TEMP
SETTING HEAT TURNS
OFF* HEAT TURNS
ON High 155° ± 5°F
(68°± 3°C) 10–15°F
(6–8°C)
below the
heat turn off
temperature Medium 140° ± 5°F
(60°± 3°C) 10–15°F
(6–8°C)
below the
heat turn off
temperature Low 125° ± 5°F
(52°± 3°C) 10–15°F
(6–8°C)
below the
heat turn off
temperature Extra Low 105° ± 5°F
(41°± 3°C) 10–15°F
(6–8°C)
below the
heat turn off
temperature The measured overshoot using the glass
bulb thermometer in the exhaust outlet can
be 30°F (17°C) higher.
5. If the exhaust temperature is not within specified limits, or you have come here from step 3, remove the P14 connector, then measure the resistance between P14-3 (red-white wire) and P14-6 (redwhite wire) at the connector. If the resistance is OK, check P14-3 and P14-6 to machine ground. If resistance is greater than 0 (zero), replace wiring harness. NOTE: All thermistor resistance measurements must be made while dryer is
disconnected from power. The following table gives temperatures and ranges for the associated thermistor resistance values.
Temp
F C
Res
kΩ
Temp
F C
Res
kΩ
50° (10°) 19.0 -22.0 80° (27°) 8.5-10.5 60° (16°) 14.8-16.8 90° (32°) 6.8-8.8 70° (21°) 11.5-13.5 100° (38°) 5.0-7.0 If the thermistor resistance does not agree with table, replace the exhaust thermistor. If the thermistor resistance checks agree with the measurements in the table, replace the machine control electronics.
TEST #4b Thermal Fuse
The thermal fuse is wired in series with the dryer drive motor.
1. Unplug dryer or disconnect power.
2. Access the thermal fuse by first removing the back panel.
3. Using an ohmmeter, check the continuity across the thermal fuse. If the ohmmeter indicates an open circuit,
replace the failed thermal fuse.
TEST #4c Thermal Cut-Off
If the dryer does not produce heat, check the status of the thermal cut-off.
1. Unplug dryer or disconnect power.
2. Access the thermal cut-off by first removing the back panel. .
3. Using an ohmmeter, check the continuity across the thermal cut-off. If the ohmmeter indicates an open circuit,
replace the failed thermal cut-off and high limit thermostat. In addition, check for blocked or improper exhaust
system.

TEST #4d Gas Valve
1. Unplug dryer or disconnect power.
2. Access the gas valve by removing the front panel and drum assembly.
3. Use an ohmmeter to determine if a gas valve coil has failed. Remove harness plugs. Measure resistance across terminals.

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1 Answer

electric dryer will not heat on any setting


Hello, when a dryer does not heat one of the first things that you would do is check the outlet to assure that you do have 110 on each side of the outlet going into the unit. If you do then you now know the dryer has the proper amount of electricity going to the unit. If you only had 110 on one side then the dryer would not heat. In order to test the following parts you will need a multimeter and unplug the dryer. There are a couple of easy to test parts that you will need to perform a continuity test on or an ohms test to assure that these parts are working properly. After you provide the make and the model number I will instruct you if you need on how to take apart your dryer and depending on which dryer you have and that you do have a multimeter I will also be instructing you on how to test each part. NOTE BEFORE TESTING ANY PARTS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER!! The parts that you would be testing are the hi limit and low limit thermistor as well as the heater and before you test each of these you have to remove one of the wires attaching to one of the sides of each part. In some units such as whirlpool, kenmore, maytag, roper have a run thermistor that when they short stops the heater from working. I will await your reply as to the model number and make and if you have access to a multimeter.
Thank you
Rick

Oct 11, 2011 | Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer runs but no heat.


If your dryer is running but you have no heat being produced from the unit this could be caused by several reasons. In your unit there are are thermistors which allow the unit to run and act as safety devices so that the unit does not overheat and cause a fire or overheat causeing extensive damage to the unit. Your unit also has a hi limit and a low limit thermistor in it as well which tell the unit to shut the heater off due to it being to hot or turn the heater on due to it not being hot enough. In order to test these thermistors you would perform a continuity test on them using a multimeter and any that were to fail you would replace. You can also perform this same continuity test on the heater as well to assure the heater is functioning properly as well. If you are able to produce your model number I most likely will be able to find your schematic to your unit showing you where the thermistors are that you would test in the unit. Also if you have any other questions message me those back as well.I await your reply Thanks Rick

Jul 10, 2011 | Dryers

1 Answer

drum runs but no heat?


hello,
the situation of a dryer not haveing heat can be attributed to a number of differnt parts finding out which one is not working properly would require you to use a multimeter and test the continuity in each part. In all dryers there is a hi and a low thermostat this is what tells the unit that it is either getting to hot and to shut off the heater or its time to turn back on the heater due to the tempreture being below what the factory set parameters are to dry you clothes. following testing the hi and low you can also test the heater by doing also a continuity test on this as well these are the three main parts that short and sometimes if you dont take apart the unit at least once a year and de lint your unit this will cause this type of situation. If all these three are in proper working order then you would have to look at the wiring, the motor , and the timer but usually the problem is within the first three parts mentioned if you have any further questions message me back and please remember to rank how this opinion has helped in your appliance situation it allows me to help others in similar situations. Thanks Rick

Mar 24, 2011 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

dryer still wont heat


you could remove and bench test the theromostat. my kenmore would not complete the circut to heat at all with a faulty thermostat. Just use a jumper wire to bypass it and test it THERE WILL BE NO SHUT OFF COULD HEAT UP TOO MUCH IF LEFT RUNNING.

Dec 19, 2008 | Whirlpool LGR5634L Gas Dryer

1 Answer

dryer turns but doesn't heat


the heater turns on when conditions are met;
1.) thermostat is allowing it to
2.) over-temperature device is allowing it to
3.) mode selector switch is allowing it to
4.) heater coil is continuous and not broken

let's focus on number 2. some dryers have a self-resetting device that "repairs" itself after temp drops to safe level. others have a fuse type device that must be replaced if over temperature occurs. First, test for AC voltage at the heater.terminals. if ac present, heater is broken or has faulty connection. If no AC, remove power from unit and test resistance across each device listed above. Ohms for each should be as close to zero as possible except for #4 which should be about 2-5 ohms.

Nov 21, 2007 | Dryers

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