20 Most Recent Flotec 1 Hp Deep Well Pump Questions & Answers

Might be a bad float switch, bad relay kicking out, or possibly the motor tripping it's thermal protection if it's getting hot.

found out the pipe had two flanges now only has one the seal is suposed to seat in between both flanges but side nearer pump has gone carnt complain too much 456,000 ks is a good run

Hi have you removed the pump from the well and tested if it will run without going via the presure switch. It could be that the pump is blocked. If it is blocked and has been for a while it may well have burnt out the pump. How deep is your well and how far from the bottom of the well is the pump. The pump should be positioned a good distance from the bottom of the well to prevent any silt getting into the pump to block it. I have a 110 meter deep well and the water level is 38 meters below ground. I have the pump at 50 meters below ground. I have only changed the pump once in 10 years. I hope this helps Steve

Hi Enslow, I can only guess that if the well hasn't been in use for some time then it's possible that if you run the pump and get brown water it may clear in time. My suggestion is simply continue to run the pump few a decent period of time that maybe a few days . As you do this take samples in say clear glass containers and see if there is improvement. So take samples every couple of hours and it will be apparent if the water is clearing or not. Make sure the pump is a decent distance from the bottom of the well. Hope that helps Regards Steve

Usually when the pump is getting hot it is going, unless it lost prime and if it ran any long period that will cause it to prematurely die

No water at any other Faucts? Did someone turn off your water at the Main? Did you pay your Bill? If you have a Well... did your sump pump go bad? So many questions.......

Do you have a filter system..is this water going to be potable? I would reccomend a water softener, and an iron filter for brown well water. We have used well water S Cal and Minnesota

I don't know about the warranty if it's six months old, but you might remind Jerry at the hardware store that we're discussing his customer service on the internet..

Submersible pumps are pretty simple, but you gotta pull the darn things out of the well every time you need to work on them and they're kinds specialized- if you do it yourself, count on spending a little money and learning quite a lot. And being dirty and surly at the end of the day, and no water to wash in..

It might be worth considering a different brand of pump, especially if Jerry won't warranty this one. I see these Flotec pumps at the farm store and all, and I believe they're just more Chinese junk. Sticking with a Meyer, Goulds, Flint & Walling might cost a few bucks more (and it might not too) but they'll last longer and the dealer is more likely to care about your problems down the road.

Let us know if you're going to pull this pump out yourself, I know a bit about it and there's probably quite a few others here who do too, I'm sure you can do it without too much trouble. Best of luck with it.

lp

First off, have you checked the adjustment of the pressure switch? If not, please go to the answer at http://www.fixya.com/support/t6375131-pressure_switch which provides details.
If that doesn't solve the problem because the pump won't provide the pressure, it depends on many factors. Assuming you have the correct pump for your well and system, the pressure/flowrate will also depend on the nozzle and venturi installed in the ejector set down the well. The ejector set comes with a table which offers the chance to increase flow or pressure. Assuming you have the correct jet/venturi for your pump and well depth, there is a simple routine which should be followed at startup of the pump the first time. Close the control valve which is a plastic threaded rod sticking out above the pump fittings coming from the well. Screw it right in. Ensure the pump is primed and that all plugs and faucets etc are closed. Then run the pump and while it is running, unscrew the control valve until the pressure gauge needle flutters. Screw the control valve closed until the fluttering stop and then at least a quarter turn. This provides your optimum pressure/flow for the depth of well, the nozzle and venturi installed. If this still doesn't provide the pressure you require, you may need to swap out the ejector set nozzle and venturi and then re-adjust.

Remove cap from pressure switch (small nut on top). You will see 3 threaded studs with springs held down by nuts at the end opposite from wired connections. Avoid wired connections with tools and fingers! The center sprung nut adjusts the ON AND OFF pressure settings. Clockwise (tightening down on spring) increases the pressure setting. One of the outside springs controls nothing - note that it has no connection to the switch moving parts. The other one adjusts the OFF setting. So adjust the center one until the ON pressure is 30 psi and then adjust the OFF setting until the pump cuts out at 50 psi. If you have an expansion tank, set this to 2 psi below the OFF setting. (If you have manual for the pump, check the pressure settings in the tables given for your pump.)
If this isn't what you need, please post more info!

Hi,
No either you got a bum pump or the wiring came apart in the well...

heatman101

Most Flotecs have a switch inside the motor housing that allows you to use either 220 or 110. You'll have to take off the end of the motor housing to where the wires come in to see it. It's usually clearly labeled. Of course, if you are already wired for 220, you'll have to drop one of your hot leads. Good luck!

You probally have some ice still in the feed line to the house. You may have to pull the pump and thaw the line. It should be in the very top of the line. You may be able to force hot air down the caseing. Or ifit is bad you might have to dig up the line from the well to the house and re wrap with heat tape. Good luck.

Your well may be low or you may have a crack in your pipe so when it is off water can drain down in the pipe and then it will pump all that air back into the system. To check this you will need to pull the pump and depending on how deep your well is this can be a job. Also you will need a tool to get into the housing to break it free and start it pulling. This consists of a long pipe threaded to fit into the fitting inside the caseing. If you have never done this you may want to hire a pro the first time to see how it is done. Good luck.

You very well could have a bunch of Sediment on the Intake for the Water OR The water table has Drpped Below the Pump.