20 Most Recent Husqvarna "Chain Saw - 16" Bar, 3 Hp - Page 6 Questions & Answers

Hi, grab the cover in a vise in the same place the bar nuts tighten up to. Then pull the chainbrake lever back towards where the handle bar would normally be until it clicks and locks back. This will require a bit of force. Then refit the cover as normal. Hope this helps, regards Phil.

If the carb screws have a spline rather than a screw driver slot , the special tool is part no 530035560, if the dealers will not sell it to you it is available on the web.

There is a number of ways to re load the brake, you can either remove the clutch and sprocket, the brake will then go back onto the saw enabling you to use the hand guard on the saw to load the brake ( to remove the clutch, there are two cut a ways in the clutch centre designed to enter a flat screw driver into, then strike with a suitable hammer to remove, it is a left hand thread ) or you can remove the hand guard from the saw and use this as a tool to re load the brake, or you can clamp the cover in a vice ( be carefull not to damage the cover ) then use a strudy pair of pliers or grips in the three legged loading mechanism and turn it to load the brake.

What airspace said sort of
HusqvarnaUSA.com
http://www.husqvarna.com/us/homeowner/support/download-manuals/
Enter the 3 digit model number (no XPs, Es, just the numbers)
Serial number decode – for use with IPL
06 1500198
06 = year produced – 2006 (single digit before 2000)
15 = week produced - March
00198 = 198th unit Husky produced that week

If you would rather not call, Husqvarna support web site:
http://www.husqvarna.com/us/homeowner/support/customer-support/
HTH Lou

You need the oiler gear . You have to remove the oiler and clean it out too. They tend to clog up then stop all together. You remove the clutch by turning it clockwise and using a thick plastic piston stopper that fits into the spark plug hole. Then remove the screws to the oiler.

It is either a hex screwdriver head or a regular flat screwdriver.

Make sure your saw is about half full of fuel. It makes a difference on the adjustment. Start your saw and let it warm up to operating temperature. Then turn the saw off for a minute. So you can do the initial adjustments,first using either a small screwdriver or hex screwdriver ...depends on what the 039 has. Turn both the Low speed (L) and High speed (H) clockwise until they stop. The turn them both one full turn counterclockwise. Then with the screwdriver turn the H screw slowly clockwise. You will notice it will start to run faster as you turn it. Adjust the screw until the saw is running smooth and fast until it starts to 'flutter" . Then turn it slightly back . This will get the proper RPM. If it is running too fast,or too slow, turn the Idle Adjustment screw (IA)( it is an i not an L) counterclockwise to lower the idle or clockwise to higher the idle.Put the brake on and let it idle. Then turn the saw different times to each side and up and down. If it turns off or sputters, turn the L screw slowly back a little to adjust it and that should give you the proper adjustment. Now , if there is nothing else wrong (like a vacum leak) your saw should run fine.If you absolutely can't adjust it. Something else is wrong it is sucking air through somewhere. Take it to the shop. or if you can, DIY, then by all means do it.

most of the time you can pull the small hose along with the filter out with a pair if long needlenose pliers.

Replace the crankshaft on both sides. You will need a special puller to remove the seal on the flywheel side and the flywheel.

300-400 dollares por todo lo nessecita para devolver el motore como nuevo.

If it is running fast at idle or you cannot adjust it. You may have a leaky crankshaft seal . Also check the hose and filter inside the gas tank for any breaks or clogged filter.

Try a new spark plug.If still does not fire you have a bad ignition coil.

Buy a new wire and route it through a different place so it will not touch the piston well. It will also help if you buy heat resistant shrink wrap and place it on the part of the wire where the wire is heating up. To remove the wire , take off the Crank Puller ( on the flywheel side) by removing the screws. You will see where the wire goes through. Just install it back the same way you took it off.

YOU CAN GO TO EBAY . THEY MAY ADVERTIZE THEIR PRODUCTS THERE. IF NOT THERE ARE ADVERTIZEMENTS IN THE SAME PAGE.

Saws that run at high revs without pressing the throttle have an internal air leak ( taking air into the engine via seals or gaskets rather than through the carb ) so you need to check, reolace the crank seals to start with.

A parts diagram is available here:http://www.husqvarna.com/ddoc/HUSI/HUSI1999_AAaa/HUSI1999_AAaa_I9900039_.pdf

First to go on is the sprocket, this is followed by the thick washer, then the first belville washer convex down, then the next one concave down, then the final one convex down, then the silver washer and finally the allen screw.

This sounds like fuel starvation, replace the fuel filter in the fuel tank, if this does not help, when it starts to die just slacken off the fuel filler cap, if it picks up and runs normaly then it is a tank braeather issue, the breather is on the top right hand corner of the fuel tank, replace it.