20 Most Recent Whirlpool Duet 7.0 Cu. Ft. Super Capacity Plus Gas Dryer - Page 2 Questions & Answers

Have you changed the element yet. If you havent please do this should solve your problem

Nope, not possible but why on earth would you want to? Gas is the best for many reasons. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

One thing you can do is clean the sensor strips located inside the dryer. Get some windex and clean the coating off them. Dryer sheets rub against the strips and form a barrier. The machine THINKS the clothes must be dry because it ain't SENSING dampness from wet cloths rubbing against them sensors. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

If you are not venting the moisture from the towels away from the rear of the dryer that could be causing your problem. If the dryer is up against the wall try either moving it away from the wall or hooking a vent hose to the discharge and at least pulling the other end of the host around to the side of the dryer. The dryer pulls air into it self from the rear and bottom of the dryer so it could be pulling the moisture from the towels right back into the dryer making it take longer to dry. Hope that helps

Hello garf..... When a gas dryer produces no heat check these: 1. Igniter Modern gas dryers use an electric igniter to ignite the gas from the gas valve. When it's working properly, the igniter glows bright orange. When it burns out, the dryer tumbles but there's no heat because the gas can't ignite. When the igniter burns out, you need to replace it. If the igniter is held by a tension bracket, you very well may need to replace the bracket too. The igniter is inside the dryer housing, near the bottom front, usually in a cone-shaped metal tube (the force cone). It's about 2 inches long. It's mounted to the far end of the burner tube, and it has two wires attached to it--or to the tension bracket, if there is one. 2. Gas valve coils Watch the igniter. Does it glow bright orange, then shut off without igniting the gas? (When the gas ignites there's a large blue flame.) If so, there may be defective coils on the gas valve. Mounted on the top of modern gas valves, there are black electrical coils. The coils, when energized, open the gas valve. If one or more of the coils are defective, the valve doesn't open and the gas cannot ignite. Because it's often difficult to properly test the coils, it's usually best to replace both (all) of them at the same time. 3. Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse (a heat-sensitive fuse that blows if the dryer overheats) mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse is about an inch long. It's usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, it has no continuity. When this happens, your dryer either just stops heating, or it doesn't work at all. Be sure to inspect the venting/heating system before replacing the fuse to put the dryer back into operation. (You can't re-set this type of fuse.) Joe thanks for choosing Fixya!

no, it's like apples and oranges

Hi, Often times that is because it is not lighting right...
If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heatingthe most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glowssometimes it is still not working properly. if you dryer is gas check out this gas no heat tip.... If you have an electric dryer, you can have many differentthings that can go wrong causing the dryer not to heat. check out this electric no heat tip...

heatman101

1. Unplug the unit while servicing inside.
2. Remove the lower kick panel under the door by removing the three 7mm screws under the bottom edge of the panel. HINT: Use a couple of blocks of wood to prop up the front feet of the washer to gain better access to the screws. Once the screws are removed the panel should drop down, and then pull off. If the panel becomes stuck, a slight tap on either side will dislodge it.

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It appears your timer/main controller/CCU has failed in this instance.

For replacement parts - head on over to PartSelect.com or RepairClinic.com and enter in your full model number for a full parts listing.
I recommend both sites because ...


FixYa has no affiliation with either site - I have been using and recommending them for years - trouble free.

PartSelect has a great schematic database for locating the part on your unit and great "testimonials" for each part that often times includes HOW-TO information.
RepairClinic has pictures of each part they sell and also a great how-to and troubleshooting for basic repairs.


If your unit has never been serviced - there should still be an original service manual enclosed in plastic taped to the inside of the shell.
In the service manual are Error codes, maintenance procedures, and troubleshooting steps you can follow.


Anything too complicated or beyond your scope should be handled by a professional.

If you think you want to tackle the repair - and have gotten stuck on a step - reply to your question and I will be glad to help you out.




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Overfilling loads can cause small objects like pins, coins, and small socks to get between the tub abd Basket of your washer.

The basket is held onto the rear half of the outer tub simply by the bolt to the main pulley.
Remove the bolt, remove the pulley, and the basket shaft should slip right out of the bearings of
the rear tub.

Simply shining a light around between the basket and outer tub should confirm that there is something in there, since you have access to do this with
the front tub removed. Go ahead, remove the pulley and bolt, and if
the basket comes out, then check everything out.

If it doesn't, don't try pounding it out; stop there and go to plan B, which is a new basket
and tub assembly.

Front - loader: Remove Bellow

http://media.fotki.com/1_p,wbwdbgtqbsqkfbgxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/kdtfgttdqxkfqrdrrdq/1/1303472/5961857/image45926img-or.jpg



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Your bellow may be worn or damaged.



A lot of concerns have been raised about door bellows molding, mildewing, and/or ripping and needing replaced. A replacement bellow isn't cheap (prices vary, but are around $75-80), so hopefully these helpful steps will eliminate the need to call a repair service and pay the additional labor charges. This is a repair of MODERATE difficulty. Just follow these steps:

1. Unplug the washer.
2. Remove the washer top panel by removing the three torx-type screws (or 7mm) where it attaches in the rear of the washer. The panel should slide back, and then lift off.
3. Remove the operator console by removing the dispenser and the scew(s) behind it. Take a putty knife and insert it under the console seam right above the door. If you push in slightly while pulling outwards the panel pops off. Use care not to pull or damage any of the wiring. You can leave the wires attached and simply lay the console across the top of the washer out of the way.
4. Locate the wire hoop retainer around the rubber door boot. It is located behind the rubber seam where it attaches to the door frame. Follow this hoop around to the bottom of the door opening and locate the wire tension spring. Gently pry this spring apart and pull the wire hoop from the groove. Pull the rubber boot from the frame and push it inside towards the wash tub. You will also have to remove the door boot from the fill tube on the left hand side of the door opening. There is a small wire clamp holding it in place.
5. Remove the three screws that hold the door latch assembly in place. This is on the right hand side of the door opening. You can leave the latch in place as long as you remove the screws and push it inside slightly to remove it from the front casing of the washer.
6. Remove the door by removing the screws holding the hinges in place. Use care to support the door hinges when loosening. They can bend. Set the door aside in a location where it will not get stepped on or broken.
7. Remove the lower kick panel under the door. There are 3 screws under the bottom edge holding it in place. Sometimes the panel can stick. A slight tap on either side will knock it free.
8. Remove the front washer casing by removing the four remaining screws that are holding it in place. There should be two at the top and two at the bottom. Set the front casing aside.
9. Remove the old door boot by locating the large clamp that attaches it to the wash tub. Loosen the 7mm nut and the boot will detach from the tub. Also remove the boot from the fill tube coming from the dispenser.
10. Install new door boot on the wash tub and install clamp. There should be instructions that come with the door boot with guide marks to ensure you align it correctly. Once you have the boot in place, tighten the clamp enough to where it is snug. DO NOT over-tighten or you may damage the tub and or clamp. In most cases the clamp will break.
11. Once you have the boot in place, re-install everything in the reverse order of how I explained to disassemble. Make sure you connect the door latch assembly BEFORE you re-install the outer portion of the door boot. Also, make sure you install the boot completely over the fill tube. There should be a ridge on the tube where to stop. Sometimes the tube is not inserted all way into the boot and water will leak behind it. The clamp is always difficult to get back in place. If you cannot get the clamp to go back over the tube, you can live without it. Some newer models do not have them installed. Just make sure it is a snug fit where the rubber boot fits ALL the way back to the plastic ridge on the tube.
12. When you get the point where you are ready to install the door boot back over the frame of the door opening ensure you fit it snugly all the way around the door. Beginning at the top of the door, start inserting the wire hoop back into the groove. Make sure to wire spring points towards the bottom. As you work your way around the door to the 4 and 8 o'clock positions, you will need to maintain some constant downward pressure while pulling the spring apart in order to snap it back into place. It would be advisable to use a second set of hands to hold the wire hoop in place while doing this as it has the tendency to want to come out of the groove.
13. Once the door boot is back in place, re-install the operator console and washer top.
14. At the operator console, select DRAIN SPIN, NO SPIN and press any button under OPTIONS 4 times (has to be the same button, though). This will place the washer in diagnostics mode. You should hear the door latch lock and "C00" will be displayed on the console. The washer will run through a series of tests filling the tub, tumbling, draining, and then a final spin. If you do not wish to wait for the test to complete you can press CANCEL at any time. The test checks out everything and takes about 15 minutes. Look for any leaks.


Step 6--Removing the door. After you remove the three screws in Step 5, there is only one screw to remove in step 6 on my model. It was hidden behind a plastic cover that makes the hinge look pretty. You'll see on the inside of the door that two plastic prongs/tabs extend into holes in the hinge. If you push on them laterally and pull out, the tabs will pop out. Outside the door on the left side of the machine, you'll see the plastic cover that is connected to those plastic tabs and is hiding the hinge. On the outside cover piece, there is a flat tab that extends up into the plastic housing above it. If you gently pull the cover downward and out the whole plastic cover will come off revealing the one screw that needs to be removed to take the door off.
Step 7--Removing the Kick Panel. The middle screw is more difficult to reach than the sides. You may need an extension for your screwdriver and/or shims or a helper to prop up the washer while you remove the middle screw.
Step 8--Removing the washer casing. The step says to remove the screws and set the casing aside. My model (2005-ish) has wires connected to it. Rather than being able to remove it, it swings open like a door with the wires as the hinge. I simply used a box to prop up the outside part of the door so it did not sag and stress the wires.
Step 9--After you remove the old rubber bellow, you will likely see a lot of dirt, mold, and junk where the bellow was. Clean that stuff off with a cloth sprayed with a gentle cleanser before installing the new bellow. We replaced our bellow because of mold and mildew and bad smelling stuff. That dirt and junk is part of the problem. Clean it up before you install the new clean bellow.


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There can be many reasons why your dryer will not start or turn...

The most common causes are the belt breaking or jumping off, or the motor going bad...

Here are a couple of tips that I wrote will help you to figure out why your dryer will not run...

Dryer Repair - The Dryer is not Turning

Dryer Repair - The dryer will not start


heatman101

huuum At your service!

Did this tech do some wash to the dryer and feel that there was no heat?
He was not a good tech


Sometimes this can happen when the vent line is clogged.


1. Check if the lint filter is full and needs to be cleaned.
Try this first.
2. Then check if the outside screen covering the exhaust vent if this is even half blocked
with lint there will be no heat! This screen is to keep small animals out!
Try checking this and if it is clogged or the spring loaded door is stuck closed.
Try to clean the lint out of the corners of the flap door,
and or remove the screen permanently!
NO ANIMALS LIKE TO GET BURNT,IT'S HOT IN THAT TUBE! They sense this and stay clear.
It is 2 years that mine is off and all is fine.





You will be fine
Bless You huuum
PLEASE GIVE ME A GOOD RATING BEFORE YOU SIGN OFF!

Remove the bottom panel. The tech sheet will be there.
Duet dryer manual
If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

"F02" is a Long Drain error. This is usually an indication of an obstruction somewhere in the drainage system, or a failed drain pump. In most cases, the drain pump reservoir just needs to be cleaned out. The following link explains how:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574284-checking_the_drain_pump_on_a_front_loade

If you check the drain pump reservoir and the problem still persists, you may have a pump with a damaged motor/impeller, or something lodged in one of the drain lines. In particular, the drain line that runs from the bottom of the wash tub to the inlet side of the pump.

I recommend you remove the inlet hose, as well, and inspect for clogs. In is common for small garments to become lodged in this area and restrict water flow to the drain pump. Check the output drain line for obstructions as well.

It does not take much to damage these small drain pumps. The error code is generated if the drain cycle exceeds 8 minutes. So...if the impeller or motor become damaged, and the pump does not pull water at the correct volume, you may still experience the drain error. In this case, you will have to replace the pump in order to get the error to clear. The following link explains how:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574350-replacing_the_drain_pump_in_a_front_load

Replacements parts (if required) can be purchased at any of the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

Prices vary between sites, so shop and compare. The first three sites listed also have helpful exploded view parts illustrations to assist you with locating and properly identifying the parts you may need.


NOTE: For a full explanation of all the error codes, each one of these appliances come with a technical data sheet inside.

To access, you will need to remove the lower toe panel under the door. The access screws are located under the bottom front edge of the panel. You may have to prop the two front fett of the washer up for better access ( a 2x4 works well for this). With the screws removed, the panel should drop down, then come off. If the tech sheet isn't directly behind the panel, it will be affixed to one of the interior cabinet walls.

The tech sheet lists all error code definitions, troubleshooting data, diagnostics procedures and wiring diagrams. I mention the tech sheet because you may need it to troubleshoot this error code.

Read through the information provided and let me know if you have any further questions. I hope you find this information helpful.

NOTE: "SUD" is a suds error detect which can occur in conjunction with the "F02" error. This is a result of too much air being detected in the drainage system. In most cases, correcting the drainage problem will correct BOTH error codes.

have you selected the right setting?....if so the element has burnt out.

Hi,
There can be many reasons why your dryer will not turn...

This tip that I wrote will help you to figure out what is happening...

Dryer Repair - The Dryer is not Turning
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4422207-dryer_repair_dryer_not_turning

Dryer Repair ? The dryer will not start
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4460438-dryer_repair_dryer_will_not_start


heatman101

Try pushing and holding the 'End of Cycle Signal' button for 4 seconds. Let me know if that works.
Thanks!