ELECTRIC Dryer no heat or little heat, or shuts down to fast:
Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it)
Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective or has a short if its grounding out? Which in turns causes blown fuses or thermostats or
The heating elements are located inside the heater ducts. If you think a heating element is faulty, test it with avolt-ohm-multimeter (VOM)set to the RX1 scale. Disconnect the leads from the power terminals and clip one probe of the VOM to each terminal. The meter should read about 12 ohms. If the reading is higher ohms, the heater is faulty and should be replaced. Replace a faulty heater with a new one of the same type and electrical rating. A heater connected to a 115-volt line usually has an 8.4-ohm resistance; a heater connected to a 220-volt line usually has 11 ohms resistance.
Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220,
OR you may have a broken centrifugal switch in the motor because this switch activates the motor and the heater as well. supposed to be if the motor does not run , the heater should not heat in order not to create fire but you said that even the motor is not running, the heater is still heating, then there could be a problem with the motor centrifugal switch that is connected to this interlock switch that should trigger the heater.
Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats.
For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement.
In some dryer's the control panel relies on a thermistor rather than a CYCLING thermostat to regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when the thermistor indicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drum
Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet.
Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity.
A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats.
First clean the vents inside the dryer and to the outside be sure and clean around the blower wheel. Check the thermal fuse, the cutout fuse & all the thermostats. Check the heating element also check that it is not grounded to the heater box. Last check the centrifical switch on the motor as the heater runs through it.
Hope this will help you
I am a WP tech need exact model number dont change many motors does the unit power up and when you push start do you hear a click if so probably an open fuse again model # will show you how to place in diagnostic
The dryer should be on a dedicated circuit. Is anything else on the same circuit? Try plugging the dryer into a different circuit and see if it still trips the breaker. The breaker trips because there is either a short or too much power is being drawn for the size of the circuit. Check how many amps the dryer uses, and make sure the circuit is rated for that load. If the dryer needs a 20 amp circuit, and the circuit it is plugged into is only a 15 amp circuit, that will trip the breaker. If all that is good, there is a problem with the dryer, either a short or the motor is drawing too much power, which usually means it is at the end of it's useful life and need to be replaced. If you are handy, there are sites you can go to which will show how to remove the motor. There are appliance parts stores which will test your motor, and sell you a new one if you need one. I have a 30 year old dryer that still runs, with it's 4th motor and 5th belt, if you are handy. The cost of a repairman to come out is probably not worth it after the dryer is about 10 years old, better to replace the dryer at that point. The new ones are much more energy efficient and do a better job than the older equipment, so they are worth the investment.
sounds as if you igniter is trying to continually lite not sure about how flame senser works on that model but normaly senser is right next to flame may have been bent away from flame I am use to older models
First, check the door switch. Push and release it by hand and you should hear a click. If no sound, replace the door switch with this part. If the switch is ok, press the cancel button on the machine. Then do this. press and hold the start button for 2 seconds then release wait 2 seconds and press and hold again for 2 seconds continue this pattern until the dryer goes into test mode. You will see all the lights on the control light up. press each button on the control one at a time 3 times each. (Do not press the cancel button) until the dryer begins to run. When the dryer starts to run then press the cancel button. Then your machine should function properly.