20 Most Recent Samsung 24.8 Cu. Ft. Side-by-Side Refrigerator with Thru-the-Door Ice and Water - Black - Page 8 Questions & Answers

You have ice stuck inside where it has dispensed but it apparently did not drop all the way down to the container. Only thing you can do is shake it until everything drops, allowing the bin to be removed.

Contact Samsung direct. That is a warranty manufacturing issue. If they are using polystyrene balls that should also be injected with PVA adhesive at the same time to glue the balls into a solid lump. Or you have a mouse in-between the inner and outer case!

FREEZER /FRIDGE NOT COOLING: Optimum refrigerator temperature at or below40° F(4° C). The freezer temperature should be0° F(-18° C). Check temperatures periodically. Appliance thermometers are the best way of knowing these Check ur cold control thermostat, ur thermistors in both fridge and freezer ( they should be checked for both ohms and for amount of current being put out as per ur model ), ur air flow vent from freezer to fridge.( to make sure it opens and closes without any restrictions) On thermistors check for A close circuit and amount of ohms not just an Ohm reading. As per ur model. Most should atleast show 1200 ohms. Also Check door seals for leakage. Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited. FAN check to see if it is operating or restricted A fan that is not blowing or restricted will not circulate the cold air properly. Often, the first thing that folks do when their refrigerator starts to feel warm is turn both controls on the coldest settings.This is exactly the WRONG thing to do.Turning the cold control to the coldest settingwillkeep the compressor running longer and make lots of cold air. But turning the air door to the coldest settingclosesthe airway to the food section. Lots of cold air is made, but most of it stays in the freezer section, and the food section actually getswarmer. Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator. May also need to check the defrost timer, u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad? Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next. Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance.. THE COMPRESSOR: If you hear a clicking sound coming from the back of your refrigerator/freezer, then the problem is most likely the compressor, relay and or capacitor is overheating or not getting proper power and will not start.The compressor is the component on your refrigerator that allows your refrigerator to cool. If this component is not working properly your refrigerator will stop cooling. Most of the time the compressor is not the component that has failed. To check ur compressor with multi meter: Disconnect and remove the relay and capacitor from compressor, some located next to compressor in a casing. You wills see 3 prongs coming out of compressor. 1 goes to ur start winding, 1 goes to ur run winding and the center goes to ur ground. Place ur meter connector or prong on the start prong and the other on the ground (center prong) take note of the reading in OHMS for example 5 ohms. Next place meter prong on run prong and the center ground prong agin. Take note of the reading in OHMS. Example 4 ohms Next place meter prong on the start prong and the other on the run prong, now take note of the reading example 9 ohms. Now match the total of this ohms test with the total of ur two separate test. 9 ohms, if they match ur ok give or take 5 percent plus or minus. One more test to make to test of there is a short in compressor attach meter prong to ground prong and rub the other end of meter prong to metal ( scrape the metal clean of paint and test on metal surface not painted surface. If it shows continuity or ohms , u have a short in ur compressor. It should show infinity TO REPLACE RELAY AND CAPACITOR WITH A HARDSTART KIT YOU CAN USE A 3 in 1 start kit for compressors sizes 1/4 through 1/3 HP. And a 5 in 1 for higher H.P. (BE SURE TO MATCH WITH UR COMPRESSOR MODEL NUMBER AND TYPE) The kit includes relay, capacitor, and overload device, pre-wired. The kit will replace all 3 electrical components on capillary refrigeration systems. For newer systems with a run capacitor use proper kit. For smaller horsepower compressors useTJ90RCO810. The wire set up is as follows the red wire goes to the right side of compressor prong, the white wire to the left side prong, the black wire to the center prong, and the 2 other black wires go to the power and the ground connection Lastly you should also check ur THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 13000 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required. 1-3 TEMPERATURE CONTROL As the food in the fridge gets colder, it gives off less heat, and the air inside the fridge will remain colder. A thermostat called aCOLD CONTROLwill cycle the cooling system on and off to keep the temperature inside your fridge within a certain range. You can adjust that range using one of the dials within your fridge. On most fridges, all the cold air for both the food compartment and the freezer compartment is produced in one evaporator. Since the freezer is so much colder than the food compartment, most of the cold air that is produced circulates to the freezer compartment. Only a small amount is needed in the food compartment to keep it down to the proper temperature. This amount is adjusted by a smallAIR DOORin the duct between the evaporator and the food compartment. The control for this air door is the other of the two dials within your fridge. If you hear your compressor "short-cycling" (starting and stopping at short intervals) try jumping across the two leads of the cold control thermostat ( in the fridge compartment) with an alligator jumper. You can also check both for live voltage current and ohms- If there is a greenthirdlead, ignore it for this test; it is the ground wire. If the fridge starts running constantly, the cold control is bad. Replace it. To test or change the cold control, first Pull the knob off it and remove any plastic cover plate or housing from it. You will see two wires leading to it. There will also be a thick, stiffCAPILLARY TUBEattached. The capillary tube is the liquid-filled temperature-sensing element of the cold control, and operates in the same manner as a thermometer The air damper, baffle or diffuser is the device that balances the air flow from the evaporator fan housing. This normally is a mechanically controlled baffle or flapper that controls the amount of cold air entering the fresh food compartment. If the baffle is damaged or the linkage to the control knob is damaged, then you may not have enough cold air entering the fresh food compartment resulting in higher than normal temperatures. This baffle or damper will be located where the cold air enters the fresh food compartment. Read more: http://removeandreplace.com/2013/10/31/fix-refrigerator-freezer-wont-cool-freeze/#ixzz3WDEo5NDJ http://www.appliancerepair.net/refrigerator-repair-1.html https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KqXN-ZCuptk THIRMISTOR CHECK https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=53ZFeiWgtuk https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-L80Fk5had4 defrost timer REMEMBER GOD IS THE REASON FOR GOOD ADVICE"

You are asking question that only a Samsung Service Tech would know. However... How much refrigerant does a refrigerator need? The amount ranges from less than 1 ounce in small refrigerators to more than 6 ounces, or from 28.35 grams to about 185 grams. Plug in your fridge and attach the gauge to get a reading. Your 'model number', gives no results, so no idea if it is big or small! Go for the upper limit of 'middle ground'. https://www.google.com/search?q=Rs60kjms This link should help you with adding a little more gas, but ideally, an engineer sucks all the gas out using a recovery machine and crates a vacuum, adds the sealant, adds inert gas and pressurizes to check for leaks, sucks that gas out and adds the refrigerant by weight having the tank on a subtractive scale. https://www.google.com/search?q=how+much+R600a+gas+in+a+fridge ..

Hi, I need to replace the thermistor of my Samsung rl39thcsw fridge but cannot locate it anywhere. I found its connection on the mainboard but cannot find to where the wores lead to. I believe it should be in the food compartment but to my frustration I cannot locate it, thanks

There is a condensate tray under the evaporator coil inside the fridge and it can get moldy, It has a hose that runs down the back side to a tray that is under the frame. You should be able to see it from the back side. The interior one is hard to get to an requires removing interior plastic pieces.

The temperature control is defective.

Most likely the cubes are stuck together ,empty the tray and start a fresh .

you do not need a repair manual to do it , its fairly easy job, you can usually google it or you tube repair my fridge thermostat and it will show u how

24 hours.generally speaking for all fridges

I have the same issue with my Samsung fridge. Water tastes fine, but the ice has a bitter chemical taste - as if there was dishwasher detergent residue in the cup. All the water lines are plastic, I've changed the filter three times in the last four months, I've cleaned out the ice maker and the fridge and even replaced the bin and the ice maker itself and still have nasty ice. We still use the water from the fridge door dispenser but we buy ice. Makes me wonder why we got such an expensive refrigerator!

need to check water supply valve --ice and dispenser diverter valve -ice maker in on position

It sounds like your compressor has burnt itself out if it was knocking. They should never be heard knocking. You need a service engineer with gauges and gas if it needs it. The compressor can be replaced in a couple of hours..

call a local repair service they can test it for problems that you nor we can do .

see if page 9-5 helps you. https://www.manualslib.com/products/Samsung-Rb2155sh-23596.html

Hi Tammy, Please check there https://manualsbrain.com/en/brands/samsung/fridge-freezers/ for a manual to your fridge (or a fridge-freezer, as Samsung produces both). Hope it's helpful :)

If there is anything flashing on your control panel it's alerting you to a error code there something wrong with the fridge and it's trying to let you know to check it. Whatever the error code is you will need to refer to your owners manual or provide the full model number so that I could look it up for you.

yes you can

First disconnect refrigerator from the power supply for 3+ minutes. Then reconnect power supply. If prolem remains ,then the PCB output voltage should be checked beforE replacing the PCB.

On occasion, an older water filter can prevent the ice-maker from working if it hasn't been changed in quite a while. Normally you will notice that the ice is coming out smaller than usual just before this happens. Also, if any pieces of ice are sticking into the ice-maker preventing it from completing it's revolution, it won't load new ice. Remove the unit by pulling it forward, then push it back into place to make sure it's good good connections. Good luck:)