20 Most Recent Samsung HLS6186 Television Questions & Answers

Use hair dryer and heat up rear of tv, blow it in there, see if thst helps. If so, there is a bad solder joint back there.

It maybe time to replace the rear projection bulb for your tv. It takes only just a few minutes, once replaced the picture should look like the first time your turned the tv on.

I have a Samsung model HL-S6186 since 2006 and one month out of a 5year extended it would cut of by itself. I would turn it back on and it just progressively worse. After looking at the stories on the internet with others who had similar problems, i ordered a new lamp online for $ 56.00 with the same specs. Put the lamp back and found out that there was arching where the lamp connects to the rear. I dissembled everything cleaned the contacts and repaired the one burnt connector on the new lamp with a connector from the old lamp. Turned the tv on and now i got a check fan #1 problem. ordered an exact lamp fan from Amazon.com for $ 15.00. When it arrived i pulled everything apart and replace the fan, still got a check # 1 fan error message. I was able to download a free service schematic that covers the HL-S5086 Tv. After studying the signal flow i pulled out the DMB board and use a cheap multimeter from Radio Shack that had an audible continuity check position. Just to clarify a few points, on the DMD board the top female connector is from the Lamp ballast/Driver, the middle female connector labeled #cn805 on the board says fan # 3, when it is actually fan # 2 for error messages, and the bottom female connector on the board is labeled fan # 2 , when it is actually fan # 1 for error messages. With the DMD board in my hand and checking the continuity between all three pins of the connector, i discovered that i didn't get continuity between the top most pin where the color code is yellow for the the negative signal that the DMD board is looking for when all is working with these tube axial fans. Sure enough i realize that in my disconnecting the # fan connector i must have cause the solder joint to come loose or it must be a manufactory flaw in the process. The other two connections soldered on the board were solid.After shaking the female connector with receiving pins i decided to resolder the whole connector. This could be very delicate. For some reason the point where the # 1 fan signal gets to the DMD processor would not solder right. Not wanting to destroy the delicate $ 269.00 board , i just soldered a piece of earphone insulated fine wire from the connector point on top to the underside of the printed circuit board just before the signal goes to it's first component.I then cut out a 1/4 inch section of the trim metal that snaps on to the DMD board to insure that it won't tear loose my work. I then Check the continuity between the connector pin where the signal comes from the fan and the underside and i got an audible continuity sound. I put everything back together and my problems are solved. I only need to re-adjust the 4 tension screws that surround the heat sink to place the picture dead center. Be careful when you pull on all connectors, ensure that you bend the tabs the tug gently. Hope this helps someone out there. Incidently i have working and troubleshooting this problem for two weeks, in the meantime due to the basketball and the Super Bowl coming i panicked and went out and purchased my first Samsung 59 inch Plasma Tv package deal with a Blue Ray DVD player an glasses. The 2006 DLP Tv is workin great and the picture is much brighter than before. I have an extra new fan now in case the old # 1 lamp fan fails.

I had the same issue, I purchased a new lamp, installed it in 2 minutes. The picture is like when I first purchased the tv. You can find the lamp code sticker on the left when facing the tv.

The light engine is failing. Thats the number one cause of grinding in a samsung.

maby bad power cheak plugs let it cool down maby fan went out or bulb is messing up or hot in there dusty change plug 1st try these how old is the bulb in it do u have faded picture

remove the back cover u will see the fans one for the ballast and the other for the lamp

Sounds like a door switch is not making proper contact--or has been damaged. Check the lamp door switch and see if it is properly seated and the pin on the door is hitting the leaf of the switch.

You need a color wheel--common on these sets. Get a real phillips bulb and you should be set for awhile. The cheap generic bulbs are fine to get you through a few MONTHS....but NOT much longer. . An E22H-120/132 watt lamp is correct--and if you can replace just the bulb-(NOT hard at all to do) it will save you a LOT of money.

just from personal exp the easiest thing to do may fix or at least make it better. if u see puffed and leaky caps on power supply replace capacitors. if really dusty clean. both previously mentioned and both helped me. my tv was completely dead and replacing caps got it to power back up and work. it takes two trys to come on but works great so far. then i cleaned every nook and cranny with a small vacuum hose and different size/angle brushes that could be attached to hose. i only took out the psb board with caps and didnt touch anything in there that i could mess up. just cleaning helped enhance the colors. right now this is the best picture ive had on a tv and it was completly dead when i got it.

Check all your input cables & be sure they are snug on both ends, also check all your wiring connections inside the TV. you may have not gotten something back correctly or properly.

EURO STAR LCD TV 32" BLANK PROBLEM

(Please check your model number - it appears to be incorrect, I believe it's HL-S5687W) 1) How old is the lamp? (how many hours on it)2) Is the lamp an original equipment lamp, or aftermarket?It's either the Lamp itself (it's not common for a sudden reduction in brightness), -or- the Lamp Ballast has gone bad. This is the power source for the Lamp, and although they usually die completely when they do go, sometimes they will act just as you have described... they fail into a "low power" mode.If the lamp IS an original mfr lamp, and if it's nowhere close to being near "end of life", then I'd say it's likely the Ballast.Prices for the original Samsung lamp run around $100 onamazon and others.The Ballast p/n BP47-00037A has a cost of around $50 to $100 online. Google those p/n in "Shopping"The Ballast can be replaced without great knowledge, but will require some dis-assembly, and CARE.WARNING - Dangerous, and even lethal voltages are present inside your TV set. Do not attempt this unless you are trained in these kinds of repairs. Leave the TV unplugged for several hours (or preferably a full day) before attempting such repairs.