Whirlpool LSR8433K Top Load Washer - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

check the belts not too lose.... cheers

sounds like the pump is clogged up, Take pump off and clean.

Hi, if clothes are wet after spinning, check.......
Motor coupler To test the motor coupler, re-start the washer in its spin cycle. Let the machine run for a minute, and then open the lid and notice whether the tub is spinning: If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine. If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely.

Spin cycle If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag), a worn clutch (GE/Hotpoint), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component. Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician.

Siphoning If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess.

Water-inlet valve Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.

replace the load size switch/diaphragm assembly.

changed tchange the clutch and gearcase. No spin could be possible bad spin tube Be sure brake is backing off remove gearcase and try turning the brake to back off drum tube Can be binding against bearing in tub support

is your unit new?if it is,well thats normal for quite time.if it isn't new,belt is worn-out need to replace it already.

Possible fault in the timer unit as it fails to contact on the program set within . It will be good to have the contacts tigtened , use some degreasing spray to clean the contacts. make sure that the connections to the controller are tight.
If there is no result even after a cleaning it is possible that the timer controller unit is faulty and needs a replacement as it is not locking in unison with the program to the contacts.
replace with the same type, make sure that each connection is market and put in accordingly with a lot of attention and care not to misplace the leads.

Well I have a Roper Top Load Washer, bought it in 1998 ,no problems til back 6 years ago we had someone come fix it. My problem was the same wouldn't drain or spin. The problem was it was clogged, in the front when you lift off the washer casing theres a white piece connected to to tubes that drain. well there was my daughters pair of underwear in there and a couple small socks. He took them out put it back together and worked ever since. Until earlier tonight we had same problem so we took it apart ourselves and found my boyfriends sock in there took it out and put it back together and works great again. So far so good. Hope this helps Good luck. Tammy

If you experience a problem where the washer does not drain properly or the drain pump makes excessive noise, here's the information you need to check the drain pump:

Symptom: PUMP IS RUNNING, BUT NOT DRAINING PROPERLY.

1. Unplug the washer while servicing inside the unit.
2. Remove the lower kick panel under the door by removing the three 7mm screws under the bottom edge of the panel. HINT: Use a couple of blocks of wood to prop up the front feet of the washer to gain better access to the screws. Once the screws are removed the panel should drop down, and then pull off. If the panel becomes stuck, a slight tap on either side will dislodge it.
3. Locate the drain pump. It will be located directly under the wash tub (it is the only pump this washer has).
4. There is an access removal cover on the pump that can be removed to clean out the trap. BEFORE doing this, it is strongly recommended that you remove all residual water from the wash tub & drain line or you will have about a gallon or so inside your washer and on the floor to clean up.
5. Here's a helpful way of quickly removing the residual water. If you own a wet/dry shop vac, remove the drain hose from the standpipe at the wall and pull a vacuum with the shop vac. This will empty the wash tub, pump and drain lines. If you don't own a shop vac, grab a bunch of old towels and open the access on the pump slowly so that it comes out at a trickle. Allow the towels to soak up the majority of the water. Close the access and stop the water if you need to get additional towels.
6. Open the pump access and remove once you have all the water drained. Check the drain pump for foreign objects and debris. Check the pump impeller and make sure there's nothing caught in it. Items as small as toothpicks or cotton swabs have been known to stop this pump from working.
7. Clean out the pump thoroughly and reinstall the access cover. Make sure the cover is snug, but do not over tighten.
8. Place the drain hose back in the standpipe (IMPORTANT - DO NOT FORGET!).
9. With the bottom panel still off, plug the washer back in and select the following on the operator console - DRAIN SPIN, NO SPIN, and then press any button under OPTIONS 4 times (it must be the same button). "C00" will show on the console display as the washer begins diagnostics mode.
10. Check the drain pump for leaks as the washer fills. The pump is gravity filled and will hold water even it is not pumping. Allow washer to run through diagnostics until it begins the wash tub tumble cycle.
11. At this point, you can stop the diagnostics procedure by pressing PAUSE/CANCEL 2 times. The drain pump energizes and the washer will begin to drain.
12. If the drain pump works normal and there are no leaks detected, reinstall the bottom panel and tighten screws.


NOTE: It is normal to have residual water left inside the wash tub under the wash basket. This is why it is important to leave the door ajar when not in use so this water does not become sour.


Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

www.whirlpool.com and goto owners center... enter in your model # and it should give u the guides for your washer under the parts list guides...

It appears your timer/main controller/CCU has failed in this instance.

For replacement parts - head on over to PartSelect.com or RepairClinic.com and enter in your full model number for a full parts listing.
I recommend both sites because ...


FixYa has no affiliation with either site - I have been using and recommending them for years - trouble free.

PartSelect has a great schematic database for locating the part on your unit and great "testimonials" for each part that often times includes HOW-TO information.
RepairClinic has pictures of each part they sell and also a great how-to and troubleshooting for basic repairs.


If your unit has never been serviced - there should still be an original service manual enclosed in plastic taped to the inside of the shell.
In the service manual are Error codes, maintenance procedures, and troubleshooting steps you can follow.


Anything too complicated or beyond your scope should be handled by a professional.

If you think you want to tackle the repair - and have gotten stuck on a step - reply to your question and I will be glad to help you out.




Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question%$#@

It appears your timer/main controller/CCU has failed in this instance.

For replacement parts - head on over to PartSelect.com or RepairClinic.com and enter in your full model number for a full parts listing.
I recommend both sites because ...


FixYa has no affiliation with either site - I have been using and recommending them for years - trouble free.

PartSelect has a great schematic database for locating the part on your unit and great "testimonials" for each part that often times includes HOW-TO information.
RepairClinic has pictures of each part they sell and also a great how-to and troubleshooting for basic repairs.


If your unit has never been serviced - there should still be an original service manual enclosed in plastic taped to the inside of the shell.
In the service manual are Error codes, maintenance procedures, and troubleshooting steps you can follow.


Anything too complicated or beyond your scope should be handled by a professional.

If you think you want to tackle the repair - and have gotten stuck on a step - reply to your question and I will be glad to help you out.




Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question

Appliance repair says 75-90 is good and makes sense, since in all practical application, it's like the diff. in a car or truck.Glad to help Jorge.

Have someone help you look under the washer. Tilt it up and back and look underneath. Do you see one belt or two? Is it worn? If the motor and belt is good then transmission is bad. Call places with you make and model for an estimate. P.S. Have you noticed grease stain on your clothes after washing?

Most probably one of the springs which centralises the drum has broken. Lean the machine back against something or someone and, with a light, check up inside and...A broken wire on the floor under the washer might tell you something....Don't forget to unplug first!...Good luck...Nomess

This is usually caused by the coupler. There is a video showing how to replace at www.appliancehelponline.com/servicemanual.html

Sounds like either the timer, or motor. Both are kind of expensive.

It is not a timer problem. This means the mechanism for the spin is still working and the agitation mechanism is not working.

The motor has 2 direction of rotations. One for agitation and the other is for spinning. Of course, there is a mechanism to assist this purpose. Your are lucky since it is easy to fix the agitaition mechanism than the spinning one.

If you take out the front pannel, you can access to the bottom of the shaft, The little white plastic is worn out. This one is the mechanism to activate the agitation. The rest you see are the brake, the clutch and the pulley to take care of the spinning mechanism, but you don't have to worry about them.

You just need to replace this white plastic part then you are good to go. Good luck.

Hi, Remove the inlet hoses and clean out the screens inside the inlet valve. Most of the time it is the cold water that gets plugged up. Because you state the rinse cycle is filling slow, I believe the cold is your problem.
Please let me know if this helps or if I can assist you further.

Vic

If the washer will fill and drain, but won't agitate or spin, you may have a broken motor coupling. The noise of the motor engaging, lack of agitation and ability to still drain are the usual symptoms. This is a common fail item with this model washer through normal wear and tear. Newer versions of the coupler are more resilient and resist breaking. The following link explains how to replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385250-replacing_motor_coupling_kenmore_top

The motor coupling is located between the drive motor and the transmission and takes the place of a drive belt. They do wear out and can break. The replacement part number is included in the link I provided and is an improved upgraded coupling that is more resilient. It should last longer. If you have questions, or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

A replacement coupler can be purchased on line at appliancepartspros.com for about $11. Just use the part number in the link and "Search by Part Number" for your search criteria.

Now...a washer that fills and doesn't do anything, or stops right after the wash cycle and then does not advance to the rinse cycle and drain is commonly caused by a lid switch malfunction. The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385198-replacing_lid_switch

If the switch requires replacement, a new one can be purchased on line at searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, repairclinic.com, appliancepartspros.com. Just use your model number as your search criteria. All these sites offer competitive pricing, so shop all them for the best price.

Take note of your symptoms:

1. Washer fills, may or may not agitate, will not advance to the rinse cycle, and will NOT drain - lid switch.

2. Washer fills, does NOT agitate or spin, but WILL drain - motor coupling.

If you still have questions, please let me know. If the suggestions I have listed do not match your washer symptoms, please post back and elaborate more on what the washer is/is not doing. That way I can provide you with better assistance. I hope this information is helpful to you.

PS The age of the washer is determined by the Serial Number on the appliance. If you post back with the number I can tell you the year it was manufactured.