20 Most Recent Thetford Norcold RV Cooler/Freezer - Page 5 Questions & Answers

If the incoming AC voltage falls too low, it does this to maintain cooling capacity. It will also do the same thing if voltage gets too high.

It might also indicate that the control board is detecting a problem with the heater element. Are there any faults or check lights being displayed after it switches to gas?

Thetford Norcold... | Answered on Jun 30, 2010

The baffle can be either, it just serves to force the convection air to move through the fins, rather than around them.

Thetford Norcold... | Answered on Jun 30, 2010

They are located on the circuit board on the back side of the unit under the black plastic cover.

Thetford Norcold... | Answered on Jun 30, 2010

Have you tested for 12 vdc at terminals where element is connected to board? If yes, and 12vdc is present, then I'd pull element out and bench test it carefully. Just let it cool down, and attach 12vdc from a battery or other source to it and see if it heats up. Careful not to burn your fingers or hand when feeling outside of element for heat. If no heat felt, replace it.

Thetford Norcold... | Answered on Jun 04, 2010

The clicking is the electronic ignitor trying to light the gas.
Either it's not getting any gas to light , or the flame sensor is not telling the computer that there is flame , so it shuts down the gas.
Most fridges have a small shut off right at the gas valve in the back of the fridge , it might be turned off. Put your ear up to the back cover of the fridge , if you hear it sparking and then you hear flame but it goes out after a few seconds , than it is the flame sensor. If you never hear the flame blowing , than it is not getting gas. Could be several different reasons. If you have disconected your tanks , maybe the gas has just not made it to the fridge yet. Newer ignitors try 3 times and then shut down if no flame is detected. Old ones only try once.

Thetford Norcold... | Answered on May 27, 2010

I had same problem with my camper. RV repair place told me the 110velement was likely blown and shorting out. I ordered a replacement and removed my old one. When I went to the parts place , the one they handed me had different wires on it than the one I had in my hand. We checked everything out and found that the 12v element was pluged into the 110v terminals , and the 110v element was pluged into the 12 v terminals. It almost looked like it had been that way right out of the factory. Anyways , everything works great after switching the wires. If you remove your elements , and have a magnifying glass , or really good eyes , the voltage is stamped on the base of the element. While they are out , you can just hook the 110v element up to an extension chord. If it heats up it is good , If it sparks and blows a breaker , it is toast and shorting out.

Thetford Norcold... | Answered on May 27, 2010

sand your thermal cupler off or replace it not centing the flam

Thetford Norcold... | Answered on Apr 11, 2010

You need a start relay.They are located on the compressor.If you are not sure where it should be locted in rear bottom left hand side.There will be a small panel to remove to see it.

Thetford Norcold... | Answered on Mar 13, 2010

u must take into a dealer or have a mobile tech to reset the board

Thetford Norcold... | Answered on Jan 29, 2010

check the fuse on the back of the board on the fridge itself

Thetford Norcold... | Answered on Jan 29, 2010

u need to take into dealership or have a tech reset the board if not done right u can blow your board out

Thetford Norcold... | Answered on Jan 29, 2010

I have done a bit of google research and this code probably means "Not Cooling" Due to a power interruption or sometimes if you do the initial cool down from 12v (instead of gas or AC). There are a couple of other causes but often all the unit needs is a reset. I found some details and instructions here but they don't specify an exact model. There were other details here but they refer to pages that are no longer available..

This should put you on the right track. Just do some more googleing if these details aren't specific enough.

Thetford Norcold... | Answered on Jan 29, 2010

Try swapping the wires on the dual water inlet valve. Then try the water dispenser. The water should go to the ice maker. This will tell you weather or not the ice maker valve is working and if the line is clear.

The water inlet valve on the back of unit opens when the ice maker needs water. If the valve doesn't seal good because of sediment or wear it will continue to drip and when the water reaches the ice maker supply tube it will freeze. You can take the water line off the valve and watch to see if it drips.

Thetford Norcold... | Answered on Oct 24, 2009


This can be a problem on the control board or in the control switch, you better check this first..

For clarification may I know what model/maker that you have?


Thetford Norcold... | Answered on Aug 31, 2009


You want to buy a door gasket, try to visit this site www.ebay.com this is an online selling website. You can chose their what is the brand and model of your gasket. Chose the gasket which is compatible to your old one.

Good luck!

Thanks for using fixya



Thetford Norcold... | Answered on Aug 20, 2009

Hi there,

I assume there is no manual control for setting temp. so the thermal sensor or control circuit has failed and it is just staying at its maximum.
Now you need to change the thermal sensor.

Good Luck!!


Thetford Norcold... | Answered on Jul 14, 2009

the best source to buy the door gasket is from:
open the link and order the gasket or any other parts for your refrigerator. keep updated.


Thetford Norcold... | Answered on Jul 08, 2009

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