20 Most Recent Whirlpool GBS277PD Electric Single Oven Questions & Answers

OK. Not a professional, but I happen to have a lot of experience with this situation. For reference, I have a Whirlpool RBD305PDT11 Double-Oven with a "Self-Clean" feature. Inevitably, my bride decided that she would "clean" the oven. She set the controls and let it go. At the end of this procedure, I noticed that the electronic control board no longer showed the time or any other lights. So, I checked it out and found that the oven was ENTIRELY non-functional. Virtually nothing would work. Since this oven is hard-wired, I turned off the fuse and let it sit for few minutes (these things are just computers, so I thought that I would "reboot" the whole thing). This did nothing. Then, with the help of the internet (thank you, "Fixya"), I found out that this model of Whirlpool oven (and many others of different brand names) seems to have this sort of problem all the time. It turns out that the physical act of using the "Self-Clean" feature, with its very high heat, blows a few "Thermal Fuses" that are one-use only and cannot be reset. They must be replaced. First, be sure to turn off the power to the oven BEFORE doing anything. I did this and then took the oven out of the wall enclosure so I could get to the back of the unit. For sake of brevity, I will not go over the procedure to take the oven out of the wall, but those instructions can be found on the internet. Several metal screws hold the sheet metal covering on the top and bottom. Note: This has happened to me twice now (my bride used the "Self Clean" feature without my knowledge) and I have found that the lower Thermal Fuse has NOT blown either time, but the top one has blown both times. On this unit, the "Oven Shutdown Thermal Fuse" (part number 4451442 costing about $40) is attached with two screws and is located on the upper left section (picture attached below). It is very easy to take the two wire leads off and remove the two screws holding it in place. You can then check this item with a Multimeter to see if the fuse is working. I won't go over the Multimeter instructions, but, you are looking for "Continuity". If you have continuity (electricity will flow), the fuse is good. If you do not have continuity, the fuse is bad. The first time that this happened (about 5 years ago), the control panel still had lights on and was issuing "error codes" specific to this brand of oven (I don't remember the codes...F1 or something) and the only problem was the fuse as discussed above. However, the second time that this happened, as I mentioned earlier, the control panel was blank also. So, I had to look for the "Control Panel Thermal Fuse" also. This fuse can be accessed from the FRONT and is behind the control panel. In this unit, that part number is 4451042 and costs about $20. This item is sheathed in clear plastic with a "bullet-looking" thing inside of the plastic. It is very easy to pull this fuse out and check it for continuity to see if it is in working order. Continuity (electricity can flow from one side to the other), and the fuse is good. No continuity, and the fuse is bad. Again, you can check the continuity with a Multimeter. In the second instance of this happening, this fuse was bad also (that is why the control panel had no lights or error codes or anything). Once I replaced these fuses, the control panel came back, the oven would then respond and worked just fine. If I was to guess, I would say that the cabinet that the oven is installed into is too tight of a space and the temperature just gets way too hot and the fuses blow. This is just a thought, but maybe a fan set to blow at the unit when attempting the cleaning process would help keep the unit somewhat cooler on the outside. But then, at $60 to fix and all of the hassle involved, I am NOT willing try this just to see if it helps! Just to get in a rant....How a company can sell a unit with a feature of "Self Cleaning" that, when used exactly per the instructions, will render the unit completely useless is WAY beyond me.

F3 - E2 Oven temperature is too high (Cook mode)

Replace Oven temperature sensor (RTD)

Note: Applies to all F3-E... codes.

this could be the timer is set to auto this data sheet might help For all Free appliance repair videos visit our VIDEO TUTORIALS 1, If the fan motor in the back of the oven is going round and the temperature light is on (normally little red light), but there is no heat then you will probably need a new oven element, these are generally very easy to fit and readily available from our website these can be tested with a electric meter.
To gain access to the element you will have to remove the back plate from inside the oven. Once removed you will see the fan and element, if you look closely at the element you will probably see a small hole burnt in it where it has blown. Sometimes however there is no evidence of a fault but the element is open circuit ie: broken inside the element casing, either way it will need replacing. Some elements will are fixed from inside the oven and some are held in place by nuts from the rear of the machine.
2, If your fan oven is getting warm but takes a very long time to cook or is burning the food more on one side than the other, then you need to check if your oven fan motor is working you will see the blade turning fast if it is ok. if the element is heating but the fan motor is not blowing the heat into the oven then you need To replace the oven fan motor is a little more expensive and a bit more involved.
3. If you have the opposite problem ie: your oven is over heating and burning everything then you will need to replace your oven thermostat
4, A quite common and easily overlooked answer is if your oven is not working at all ie: no heat and no fan then the chances are that someone has put the oven timer into AUTO mode, simply put oven back to MANUAL mode and all should be working again.

Press and hold CUSTOM BROIL for 5 seconds. A
tone will sound and “°F” will appear on the lower oven display for
3 seconds.

A complete owners manual can be downloaded from
http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/product_literature/search.jsp

Thanks for using Fix Ya, please take the time to rate this solution.

clarkco

http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=241972

I have the same problem and found the information at the above site......

diydoris, you would have to have someone ohm out the lower element to make sure it is good. If the element is good, then your problem probably is in the TCO. This is a thermostat that sits on the back of the oven that can go bad. You can test this with a meter, if it shows open (no continuity) its bad. Part number for the TC0 is 4450934. Part number for the element is 4448696. Catriver...post back.

F5 is a common door latch failure or adjustment code. You may have simply bumped or repositioned something concerning the door latch assy. maybe during a routine wipedown? You can investigate this via your instruction manual.

Post me back if I may be of further assistance.
Thank you,
Dave E. (Illeagle)

Never ever use the Self Cleaning Feature. Its main function of to break things like elements, door looks and frazzle control boards. That keeps the maker is steady sales of spares. My old Ge Stove is from the mid 1970s. Of course they don't make them like that any more. They are non-electronic, so only elements can fail. You can check elements for continuity with a multimeter and replace them. If you fancy a new one, get one but never use the self cleaning feature and it will indeed last you 30 years. Bake elements https://www.google.com/search?q=Whirlpool+stove+bake+element ..

Never ever use the features of a Self Cleaning Oven. We see the damage they do here on Fixya, and the worst is the door not unlocking, and the most expensive is when they fry the mainboard. They all have a door interlock. If you were to open it when it was running, it would frizz your eyebrows!

Why You should Never Run A Self Clean Oven Cycle & ...

General Appliance Service https://www.generalappliancesvc.com > why-you-shou... Jan 29, 2020 - A self-cleaning oven is a feature on many modern ovens that burns off cooking spills and splatters with an extremely high temperature (932 F° or ...

Self-cleaning oven

Wikipedia https://en.wikipedia.org > wiki > Self-cleaning_oven A self-cleaning or pyrolytic oven is an oven which uses high temperature (approximately 932 °F (500 °C)) to burn off leftovers from baking, without the use ... ‎Pyrolytic process · ‎Alternative technologies · ‎Catalytic cleaning

Self-Cleaning Oven: 6 Reasons to Stop Using Feature ...

FIX Appliances CA https://fixappliances.ca > 4-reasons-stop-using-self-cle... A self-cleaning oven is a feature on many modern ovens that burns off cooking spills and splatters at an extremely high temperature (932 F° or 500 C°) to aid in ... ‎How Self-Cleaning Ovens Work · ‎Major Parts Damage ..

if wiring ok possible weak ignitor

Whirpool Self Cleaning Oven Instructions Hunker Please provide us the model number if you can.

Check the elements for continuity with a multimeter. Sometimes the connectors draw too much current and can burn out as well. Both are easy tests. A runaway temperature can make elements fail because there is no thermostatic control, they just glow bright yellow..

error f1 is shown when there is a problem in the control panel

Ed,Check here and watch video.https://www.repairclinic.com/ProductDetail/655475?i=178I entered your model and there's 4 diffrent ones PS1 PS2 PS3 etcso if this isn't it ck out the others on their site.Best to you.another site with video..under the part picture..https://www.appliancepartspros.com/whirlpool-elmnt-bake-wp9755770-ap6013936.htmlcopy n paste link.

Greetings, This might indicate a bad keypad or that the cable connecting the keypad to the chip board within your whirlpool has come loose. You might need to work with whirlpool to see if they keypad needs replacing or if the internal chip board itself is faulty. Thank you.

ck here...... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UylZKwzAPow Best to you

The bake element is the heating element that is found at the bottom of the oven. Most electric ovens use both the bake element and the broil element in a bake cycle, with the bake element performing 90% of the heating. If the bake element isn't working, the oven may not heat. To help determine if the bake element is defective you should first do a visual check. If the element is blistered or separated then it should be replaced. If the element appears to look normal, then turn the oven on to a bake function for a minute and then turn it off. Check the element for signs of heating and if it is still cold then it may be defective. Disconnect the power and then remove the back panel. First check the wires as they may have become loose or corroded. If the element appears to be fine visually, test it for continuity with a multi-meter. ( by placing the each of the meter prongs on each end of the heater element connectors) If the element is burned or no longer has continuity, it will need to be replaced. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms The oven safety valve (also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter. Sometimes the oven thermostat or oven sensor can be calibrated wrong, or it may be faulty. If your particular range has an oven that uses an electronic thermostat, and the oven temperature is off by tens of degrees, you probably have to replace it. On most units that have a mechanical thermostat, you can actually remove the thermostat knob, and adjust the knob to more accurately represent the actual setting of the thermostat. On many models, there's a screw on the back of the knob with a small calibration plate or ring. You can loosen this screw and adjust the calibration plate. Remember to tighten the screw again. If yours isn't adjustable, and the temperature is off by a large amount, you should just replace the thermostat. Or Oven safety valve needs to be checked with multi meter ohms / voltage

the time? You can turn off the clock display from the oven's control panel. Look for a setting that says "Clock" or "Time of Day" and set it to OFF. If you don't have this option on your oven, contact the manufacturer directly and they will be able to help you.

To be honest, it sounds like you purchased a secondhand, faulty appliance. Although it might be loose connections due to the move, the most likely issue would be the main board and due to the price of them, that is often a good enough reason to buy a new stove. https://www.google.com/search?q=Whirlpool+gr478lxpq1+stove Error messages are normally searchable, but not that one. Take it back or call out a Whirlpool Service engineer to diagnose, fix and set it up. It is a sorry tale and not an easy one to fix. https://www.google.com/search?q=Whirlpool+gr478lxpq1+stove+AM71+UI42EEWET+107 ..