20 Most Recent Whirlpool GBS277PD Electric Single Oven Questions & Answers


OK. Not a professional, but I happen to have a lot of experience with this situation. For reference, I have a Whirlpool RBD305PDT11 Double-Oven with a "Self-Clean" feature.

Inevitably, my bride decided that she would "clean" the oven. She set the controls and let it go. At the end of this procedure, I noticed that the electronic control board no longer showed the time or any other lights. So, I checked it out and found that the oven was ENTIRELY non-functional. Virtually nothing would work.

Since this oven is hard-wired, I turned off the fuse and let it sit for few minutes (these things are just computers, so I thought that I would "reboot" the whole thing). This did nothing.

Then, with the help of the internet (thank you, "Fixya"), I found out that this model of Whirlpool oven (and many others of different brand names) seems to have this sort of problem all the time.

It turns out that the physical act of using the "Self-Clean" feature, with its very high heat, blows a few "Thermal Fuses" that are one-use only and cannot be reset. They must be replaced.

First, be sure to turn off the power to the oven BEFORE doing anything. I did this and then took the oven out of the wall enclosure so I could get to the back of the unit. For sake of brevity, I will not go over the procedure to take the oven out of the wall, but those instructions can be found on the internet. Several metal screws hold the sheet metal covering on the top and bottom. Note: This has happened to me twice now (my bride used the "Self Clean" feature without my knowledge) and I have found that the lower Thermal Fuse has NOT blown either time, but the top one has blown both times.

On this unit, the "Oven Shutdown Thermal Fuse" (part number 4451442 costing about $40) is attached with two screws and is located on the upper left section (picture attached below). It is very easy to take the two wire leads off and remove the two screws holding it in place. You can then check this item with a Multimeter to see if the fuse is working. I won't go over the Multimeter instructions, but, you are looking for "Continuity". If you have continuity (electricity will flow), the fuse is good. If you do not have continuity, the fuse is bad.

The first time that this happened (about 5 years ago), the control panel still had lights on and was issuing "error codes" specific to this brand of oven (I don't remember the codes...F1 or something) and the only problem was the fuse as discussed above.

However, the second time that this happened, as I mentioned earlier, the control panel was blank also. So, I had to look for the "Control Panel Thermal Fuse" also. This fuse can be accessed from the FRONT and is behind the control panel. In this unit, that part number is 4451042 and costs about $20. This item is sheathed in clear plastic with a "bullet-looking" thing inside of the plastic. It is very easy to pull this fuse out and check it for continuity to see if it is in working order. Continuity (electricity can flow from one side to the other), and the fuse is good. No continuity, and the fuse is bad. Again, you can check the continuity with a Multimeter. In the second instance of this happening, this fuse was bad also (that is why the control panel had no lights or error codes or anything).

Once I replaced these fuses, the control panel came back, the oven would then respond and worked just fine. If I was to guess, I would say that the cabinet that the oven is installed into is too tight of a space and the temperature just gets way too hot and the fuses blow. This is just a thought, but maybe a fan set to blow at the unit when attempting the cleaning process would help keep the unit somewhat cooler on the outside. But then, at $60 to fix and all of the hassle involved, I am NOT willing try this just to see if it helps!

Just to get in a rant....How a company can sell a unit with a feature of "Self Cleaning" that, when used exactly per the instructions, will render the unit completely useless is WAY beyond me. oven-not-heating-up-after-using-self-m2kgk0sj4irmtvrbwm3x5vdv-1-1.jpg oven-not-heating-up-after-using-self-m2kgk0sj4irmtvrbwm3x5vdv-1-3.jpg

Whirlpool... | Answered on Oct 21, 2014


F3 - E2 Oven temperature is too high (Cook mode)

Replace Oven temperature sensor (RTD)

Note: Applies to all F3-E... codes.

Whirlpool... | Answered on May 05, 2011


this could be the timer is set to auto this data sheet might help For all Free appliance repair videos visit our VIDEO TUTORIALS 1, If the fan motor in the back of the oven is going round and the temperature light is on (normally little red light), but there is no heat then you will probably need a new oven element, these are generally very easy to fit and readily available from our website these can be tested with a electric meter.
To gain access to the element you will have to remove the back plate from inside the oven. Once removed you will see the fan and element, if you look closely at the element you will probably see a small hole burnt in it where it has blown. Sometimes however there is no evidence of a fault but the element is open circuit ie: broken inside the element casing, either way it will need replacing. Some elements will are fixed from inside the oven and some are held in place by nuts from the rear of the machine.
2, If your fan oven is getting warm but takes a very long time to cook or is burning the food more on one side than the other, then you need to check if your oven fan motor is working you will see the blade turning fast if it is ok. if the element is heating but the fan motor is not blowing the heat into the oven then you need To replace the oven fan motor is a little more expensive and a bit more involved.
3. If you have the opposite problem ie: your oven is over heating and burning everything then you will need to replace your oven thermostat
4, A quite common and easily overlooked answer is if your oven is not working at all ie: no heat and no fan then the chances are that someone has put the oven timer into AUTO mode, simply put oven back to MANUAL mode and all should be working again.

Whirlpool... | Answered on Jan 14, 2010


Press and hold CUSTOM BROIL for 5 seconds. A
tone will sound and “°F” will appear on the lower oven display for
3 seconds.

A complete owners manual can be downloaded from
http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/product_literature/search.jsp

Thanks for using Fix Ya, please take the time to rate this solution.

clarkco

Whirlpool... | Answered on Feb 07, 2009


http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=241972

I have the same problem and found the information at the above site......

Whirlpool... | Answered on Nov 05, 2008


diydoris, you would have to have someone ohm out the lower element to make sure it is good. If the element is good, then your problem probably is in the TCO. This is a thermostat that sits on the back of the oven that can go bad. You can test this with a meter, if it shows open (no continuity) its bad. Part number for the TC0 is 4450934. Part number for the element is 4448696. Catriver...post back.

Whirlpool... | Answered on Aug 19, 2008


F5 is a common door latch failure or adjustment code. You may have simply bumped or repositioned something concerning the door latch assy. maybe during a routine wipedown? You can investigate this via your instruction manual.

Post me back if I may be of further assistance.
Thank you,
Dave E. (Illeagle)

Whirlpool... | Answered on Jun 16, 2008


From my understanding of modern ovens, it should only lock like that if it's doing it's 'self-clean' cycle. It's possible that the locking module was 'tripped' by the high heat or somehow thought that is what it was instructed to do. If the problem happens again when the oven is set to 400 (and not self clean) it may be a damaged module/sensor

Whirlpool Ovens | Answered on Aug 24, 2019


If you have a Whirlpool oven, the F2 E6 error means that the Cancel key line is open. You will need to replace the keypad or the keypad and controller board (if a single assembly) if the keypad doesn't respond to a press of the Cancel Key.

I hope this helps.

Cindy Wells

Whirlpool Ovens | Answered on Aug 07, 2019


Oven Repair Tips - My Oven Keeps Beeping - It Is Fixed Appliance ...


https://itisfixed.com/oven-repair-atlanta/oven-keeps-beeping/

Much like a computer, electronic appliances sometimes need to be restarted. To reset your oven, unplug it from the power and leave it unplugged for at least 30 seconds. If the beeping resumes after the oven is plugged back in, it will be necessary to determine the cause of the error code.


My whirlpool oven will not stop beeping! When I press the stop button ...


https://www.justanswer.com > Home Improvement Questions > Appliance Repair

1 answer
Oct 17, 2010 - But when cancel is held down the beeping stops and the display just ... Feb but I think its the original unit from when the house was built (2006).

Videos
https://www.google.com/search?q=whirlpool+built+in+oven+won%27t+stop+beeping

Whirlpool Ovens | Answered on Jul 19, 2019


LOC indicates that the Control Lock has been toggled on. This prevents accidentally turning on the oven while cleaning the control panel. Toggling this on and off depends on the model number of the range/oven. For some models, press and hold Cancel and Cook&Hold for three or more seconds until the lock goes off. Press Cancel first; this is for models with the following manual https://outlet.whirlpool.com/digitalassets/RY160LXTS/Use%20and%20Care_EN.pdf . On other models, press and hold Start for the three seconds. This is the step for a recent model, WFE515S0ED
, https://images.homedepot-static.com/catalog/pdfimages/8b/8b4d9bd3-3c98-42ee-a764-c2e1ddf36914.pdf . On this model, there is a padlock symbol and text next to the Start button indicating how to toggle the control panel lock.

Please add a comment with the model number of your Whirlpool appliance for the directions to toggle the control lock on and off for your model. I hope this helps.

Cindy Wells

Whirlpool Ovens | Answered on Jun 07, 2019

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