20 Most Recent QMark Fan Forced Zonal Wall Heater - 208/;240v - 6824 Btu Wall Mounted Panel Questions & Answers

Hello There

To start with your thermostat is not related to the noise. The noise in your new Cadet will most likely go away after some use, VERY occasionally cadets will make this whine when new but you should have it replaced if you bought it new. Cadets are generally quieter than an average refrigerator.

So in short get your new cadet replaced for another one and that will resolve your issue.

With regards to getting them all replaced, well you don't have if it's doing the job, however as they are 20 years old you will find that the newer ones are significantly more efficient and you are likely to save on your electricity bills each month.

One other thing to consider if you do decide to replace them is to look at wall heaters with built in thermostat, the advantage of this is it will measure the temperature of its location and come on and off depending on the temperature of the room it is located in. the disadvantage of having an integrated thermostat i.e one thermostat to control all heaters is it takes the measurement from where it is located and turn all the heater on and off making it less desirable and less efficient.

As for which ones you should replace them, well cadet is a very good make, but I would recommend that you go to a showroom and look around at all the different ones, they should all have efficiency rating and most will give you the noise levels too.

Hope This helps, Please don't forget to rate me.

many thanks

IS IT GAS OR ELECTRIC THE HEATING HAS TO WORK OR THE FAN NEVER WILL. CALL YOUR LOCAL REPAIR SERVICE

suggest oil on the bushings at each end of the motor

does the element ohm out with no wires attached? Have you tested the limit switches WITH NO WIRES attached? If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/thomas_092728000e6acb79

Did you ever find this? I have one.

Hi,

As you have Checked the Power, have you tried to Reset the Breaker. If not, try it.

Certain things you need to Check :-

1. Is Thermostat Calling for Heat? Most of the times, thermostat is at Fault.

2. Check Inducer Motor. It should be 120V

3. When you On the Thermostat Fan Switch, It should Turn on the Fan.

Let me know the progress, so that we could proceed.

Hope i helped you.

Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!

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Why do you need to dismantle this? Some of these types of cooler do not have replaceable parts inside. They are usually classed as a "Throw away" machine. It is often easier and cheaper to replace it than repair it.

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o reset your Homebasix Oscillating Parabolic Heater, follow these steps: Unplug the heater from the power source. Locate the Manual Reset Button on the heater. It's usually a small button or switch. Use a fireproof, non-conductive rod (such as a wooden stick or plastic tool) to press the Manual Reset Button. After resetting, plug the heater back in and check if it functions properly. Remember to ensure that there are no flammable objects within 3 feet of the heater and that it is placed on a stable surface.

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Parts suppliers in the link. Ot if you take the old one off, a metal fabrication workshop could make you a new one. https://www.google.com/search?q=Newlec+NLSH+24AN+storage+heater+parts They still sell them and they all look the same. https://www.hwelectric.co.uk/newlec.php ..

Obviously window and wall a/c units are not tradable, in spite of the fact that I don't have the subtleties of the distinction. Alter Window units are intended to exploit the way that a window is a flimsy segment; vents outwardly of the a/c case can be near within part of the a/c unit, yet be outside (where they must be). This might permit the window units to be less expensive. Interestingly, a wall can be 6" thick or more; wall units should have all vents near the rear of the unit. BTW I generally felt that the vents in the side of a window unit were for admission of air at encompassing temperature to then be coordinated through the condenser curl at the back plane of the unit to be depleted out the back (presently more sweltering than surrounding), however as a matter of fact a portion of the side vent region may likewise be utilized for ousting air which cools engines. It may be the case that in a window unit the venting on one side is committed to admission of air for the condenser loop and the venting on the opposite side is for exhaust. This would forestall the hot exhaust air being pulled in the admission for the condenser cooling air. Window ACs versus Through-the-Wall ACs It's not difficult to think about window and through wall ACs, since they're comparative in cooling limit and size, yet through-the-wall units will generally be somewhat more productive in light of the fact that they make an impermeable seal in the room. The significant contrasts between these ACs include establishment and venting. Window ACs fit through a window and don't need long-lasting establishment, while through wall ACs are really incorporated into the wall - making them well known in rooms without windows or for individuals who like to let their windows be. Wall forced air systems normally just vent warm air through the rear of the unit, while window ACs vent from the sides and back. Hence, window and through wall models are not exchangeable (regardless of whether they're a similar size). Generally speaking, in the event that a window unit vents out its side, the wall will obstruct the vents and cause overheating. Select window AC models can be introduced through a wall, however provided that they have a slide-out case wall sleeve. Peruse more on wall sleeves.

Maybe this video will help: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xOZGx6--B2A