The problem is the water inlet valve is either clogged up or has failed. There is a video at www.appliancehelponline.com/servicemanual.html this will walk you thru testing this it's a different model but testing procedure is the same. Try cleaning out the screens before disassembling and check the screens in the hoses.
pop off the end caps on the control panel and remove the screws ,,,then pull the panel slightly forward and flip it back ih has plastic hinges on top so be careful,,,, next unplug your lid switch,,,then remove the two clips holding the back to the base with a screwdriver,,, then open the lid reach inside the inner rim and pull the back towards you at about a 45degree angle and then lift the base off the frame ,,,look inside and pay attention how the base comes off the frame and it will be easier to put back together!
your tranny linkage is either stuck ! worn out! of just jammed from running out of balance its located in the bottom on the machine on the transmission
Please keep in mind, I'm attempting to diagnose your unit without being there and with very little information.
From my experience, I would think you have a bad belt. They get stretched over time and start squealing in the spin cycle. If you don't change it, it will make a noise in every cycle until it comes off. NOTE.
When changing belt. Check and be sure the pulleys have no play on their shafts. They also go bad. It's better to fix it all now than one to have to repair four or five times this year. Good luck!
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This maybe a motor going bad because over heating or to hot. Switch inside of motor wareing out or burnt points on switch. See a apppliance repairman to check this out. Hope this may help.
I found this reference on the web ... from a repair technician on a Maytag Maxima>>>
So I'm really sorry to bring you this bad news, but let me explain your error codes. F06 E02 is a communication error between your MCU (motor control unit) and your CCU (central control unit). You'll want to remove the top panel, the control panel, and then the front panel of the washer and make sure the wire connections to the motor control unit below the tub are all secure. If everything checks good, you'd need to have the MCU replaced.
From a different reference on a similar Maytag MHW6000XW2 ... also indicating communication issue
Usually ... hidden somewhere on the inside of the washer you will find the service technician paperwork which has all sorts of additional detail.
Helpful?
Good luck on your troubleshooting!
Leveling: Ensure the washer is properly leveled. An unbalanced load can trigger the UL (unbalanced load) code. Use a level to check if the machine is sitting evenly on the floor.
Load Distribution: Make sure the clothes are evenly distributed in the drum. An imbalanced load can cause the UL code to appear.
Calibration: Some models have a calibration mode that can be accessed through the control panel. Running a calibration cycle might help the washer to detect load balance more accurately.
Electronics: There could be an issue with the control board or wiring harness. Inspect these components for any visible damage or loose connections.
Professional Service: If none of the above steps resolve the issue, it may be time to consult with a professional appliance repair technician who can diagnose and fix the problem more accurately. They may have specialized tools and knowledge to pinpoint the exact cause of the UL code.
Ld is long drain, so either the pump is blocked, the pump impeller is worn or the drain hose is blocked.
I had a drain blockage on a Miele and it was cause by an apple stalk lodging itself across the ridges of the drain hose and had collected enough lint to block it, This was a machine that was washing towels commercially for 16 hours a day.
Unhook the drain and watch it pumping either into a bucket or into a laundry sink. It should fly out in a jet!
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If yours is a top loader it will mounted near the drum inside the machine. It will be a shaped block of concrete curved to sit close the actual drum. The most like places will be at the front, nearest you when your putting clothes in it, at about 3/4 of the way off the floor. It could also be in a similar place at the back of the machine.
Unfortunately, if you can't get to it, you need a new machine. Normally you would seal with silicone or epoxy putty. The only thing I can can think of is injecting polyurethane expanding foam into the area, but go easy it expands for 10 minutes and you would have to shield any moving parts.
Most parts are obsolete.
Usually ... hidden somewhere on the inside of the washer you will find the service technician paperwork which has all sorts of additional detail.
Helpful?
Good luck on your troubleshooting!
