20 Most Recent Ryobi 15" Electric Factory Reconditioned Trimmer (ZRRY41002) - Factory Reconditioned - Page 5 Questions & Answers

Hi loneoaktrail...

The little spring inside of the carburetor goes under the float arm.
That is where your fuel inlet needle/float valve is located...on the arm at the end.
Normally there is a small indetion in the carburetor base and a small protrusion on the underneath of the float arm where the spring will be in the right postion for installation.
The spring will set in the indention and you will install the float arm with the needle/float valve and float rod into position over top of the spring,you will push down until it is in position and then you can tighten the screw that holds the float arm assembly in position.
Your carburetor should be working properly to run now as long as you do not have other problems in the fuel system or electrical problems.
Free answer...Please rate me

I am having the same problem. I took it apart and the plastic cap piece for the pull string spool has a crack. This is the plastic piece that turns the engine when pulling. Because of the crack, the absorption spring under the cap slips out of its hole in the cap. This causes the pull string spool to jam after a strong pull that causes the crack to open up. Now I need to find a replacement part. Any ideas?

YOU CAN ORDER ANY RYOBI SPARES FROM YOUR NEAREST MICA AND THEY WILL ORDER IT FROM RYOBI (011-805-5540) AT MIDRAND. LEAD TIME TWO DAYS

The head will have to be pulled off by taking the nut off of the bottom and then take the spool off and resting the spool. If the string is new it may be the wrong size string.

this might help you http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nUTR4EX5y84&feature=related

The flex cable has squares pressed into each end which you no doubt noticed. These squares must engage the drive on the motor side and on the cutting head side. It is possible to assemble the unit with the flex cable lying to one side and not engaging the drives, top or bottom. Strip the shaft and tube assembly again and check the drive ends, also check that the flex drive has not sheared.

See pages 16, 17 and 18 of your manual for the instructions.

http://dl.owneriq.net/0/0ef35b42-433c-4be9-9621-4e761571c41f.pdf

You will need Adobe Reader installed on your computer to view this. If you don't have it, it is a safe download and it is free.

The reason why ryobi tools are cheap is that when they go wrong and they all go wrong they should be chucked away as some times they can cost more to fix than buy new.
Depending on where you live you can contact roybi andthey have a very good service deppartment

Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly

First off the engine is designed to operate on unleaded fuel. The manufacturer makes no statements at all about E-10 Fuel. I will tell you from experience that you can use E-10 Fuel but.... should you ever have a warranty claim make sure the entire fuel system is 100% unleaded pre-mixed fuel. Your not going to hurt the unit using E-10 fuel as long as you maintain the proper fuel-oil mixtures. If anything a splash more of 2 stroke oil as in 22 mm / liter vs 20 mm. Or (+) 8 mm per gal.

Manufacturers statemenrts and recommended fuel mixtures below:

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

n This product is powered by a 2-stroke engine and

requires pre-mixed petrol and 2-stroke lubricant . Premix

unleaded petrol and 2-stroke engine lubricant in

a clean container approved for petrol.

n This engine is certified to operate on unleaded petrol

intended for automotive use with an octane rating
of 87 ([R + M] / 2) or higher.

1 Litre + 2 0 ml =

2 Litres + 4 0 ml =

3 Litres + 60 ml = 50:1 (2%)

4 Litres + 80 ml =
5 Litres + 100 ml =

The full operators manual is here:
http://www.screwfix.com/sfd/i/cat/pdfs/89/p4763889.pdf

Remove the tube that holds the flex-drive shaft from the front of the motor cover.Remove the rear engine cover. Remove the throttle cable from the carburetor. Mark and unplug any wires for the on/off switch that go to the ignition coil (underneath front cover) if possible. Now if you have pulled the driveshaft tube out of the way, the clutch drum is up next. Inside it, screwed into the very end of the engine's crankshaft is a Torx #25 screw. Before you loosen it, you will have to lock up the engine. To do so, remove the spark plug. Pull on the starter until the piston is down, then insert a length of clean, soft rope into the engine. The engine will come up and compress the rope, thus locking it in place to allow clutch drum and clutch removal. Loosen the T-25 (Star bit or Torx head) screw inside the drum.. You may be able to remove it with a long thin-blade screwdriver also.It probably won't come completely out...it is made this way. Next, remove the clutch. It is screwed onto a small threaded section of the crankshaft Removal is counterclockwise.. It will be pretty tight. To help, apply peneterating oil. Whack the ears of the clutch near the center with a hammer and a dull flat-blade chisel or a small piece of wood unless there are bolts. then use a wrench. It will turn counterclockwise for removal and there will probably be a removal direction arrow on it's face. After getting that off, remove the Torx screws holding the cover to the engine. The starter unit should be mounted inside as it mates with the top of the flywheel to start the motor. Remember to preload tension (5-7 turns) on the starter unit. Make sure the handle is installed. Jam the unit with a screwdriver or vise grips so you can insert and tie off the new rope. Then remove jam device and let recoil pull your new rope into place while holding the handle. Reassemble and you are done. Disassembly requires Torx head drivers and a good flat-blade screwdriver. Post back if needed

Remove the tube that holds the flex-drive shaft from the front of the motor cover.Remove the rear engine cover. Remove the throttle cable from the carburetor. Mark and unplug any wires for the on/off switch that go to the ignition coil (underneath front cover) if possible. Now if you have pulled the driveshaft tube out of the way, the clutch drum is up next. Inside it, screwed into the very end of the engine's crankshaft is a Torx #25 screw. Before you loosen it, you will have to lock up the engine. To do so, remove the spark plug. Pull on the starter until the piston is down, then insert a length of clean, soft rope into the engine. The engine will come up and compress the rope, thus locking it in place to allow clutch drum and clutch removal. Loosen the T-25 (Star bit or Torx head) screw inside the drum.. You may be able to remove it with a long thin-blade screwdriver also.It probably won't come completely out...it is made this way. Next, remove the clutch. It is screwed onto a small threaded section of the crankshaft Removal is counterclockwise.. It will be pretty tight. To help, apply peneterating oil. Whack the ears of the clutch near the center with a hammer and a dull flat-blade chisel or a small piece of wood unless there are bolts. then use a wrench. It will turn counterclockwise for removal and there will probably be a removal direction arrow on it's face. After getting that off, remove the Torx screws holding the cover to the engine. The starter unit should be mounted inside as it mates with the top of the flywheel to start the motor. Remember to preload tension (5-7 turns) on the starter unit. Make sure the handle is installed. Jam the unit with a screwdriver or vise grips so you can insert and tie off the new rope. Then remove jam device and let recoil pull your new rope into place while holding the handle. Reassemble and you are done. Disassembly requires Torx head drivers and a good flat-blade screwdriver. Post back if needed.

Check your fuel filter in the fuel tank,if you have one.
If the mower/weedeater is over a year old, then I recommend that you buy
and install a new carburetor repair kit,because the diaphragm will get hard
and that will cause it to be hard to crank.
Sounds like you will need to clean the carburetor or replace your carburetor
internal rubber parts like the diaphgram and O rings.
Be sure to use compressed air to blow out all the fuel and air passages.
Be careful when blowing out the passages, because there are sometimes small
rubber type seats in the bottom of some of the passages.
Sometimes you can get by with priming the carburetor or using starting fluid
and letting it run a few times like that and it will flush the gunk out of
the jets,but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor.
Keep in mind that the float for the carburetor must be level when you go to
reassemble the carburetor or follow the instructions you get with the
carburetor kit.
When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, you will first need
to lightly seat the jet screws.
But before you lightly seat the jet screws count the number of turns it takes
to seat the jet screws from their original position.
Be sure to mark the turns down on a piece of paper.
That way when you put the jets back in, you know to lightly seat them first
and then turn them back out to their orginal position before you started.
This is a FREE answer,Please rate me

Hyperparts might be able to help you out. They have a lot of trimmer heads and parts.

www.turfparts.com/

www.ereplacementparts.com

www.hammerwall.com

www.m-and-d.com

It probably is not, as their gas models have right- handed threads.

I am not sure this is your exact model. Please see pages 14 and 15 of this owner's manual.
http://dl.owneriq.net/3/3be43c6f-42bc-4034-8fa6-baee1c0acd2a.pdf
You will need Adobe Reader installed on your computer to view this. Adobe has a site with a free download enabling a user to read PDF files.

you can replace the head of the unit as it is bolted on left-handed threads, Lowes, HomeDepot, Wally world, Kmart, basically any discount store sells replacement heads for weed-eaters. hope this helped Tim