20 Most Recent Amana AKT3630 Electric Cooktop Questions & Answers

Red and or white should be active, black should be. Neutral and green should be earth. Get some one who understands it before you fry yourself.

The glue is reaction to the microwaves , You should use a glue recommended by the manufacture

You will only need the make and model of the cooktop to order the ignitor. Open the bottom drawer below the oven to find the data plate with model & serial #'s on the front of the oven.

on most, your push down and turn to hi to open gas valve and turn on piezio to light burner. it sounds like you have a knob already turned on . the control under the knob may need replacing. kinda an easy replacement if you get new part. check out repairclinic.com for video(maybe) but for parts for sure. be careful. gas is explosive.

You can get a replace igniter from the below link:
http://www.partselect.com/Amana-Cooktop-Parts.htm

You can also use the video below to know how to replace an Amana ingnitor.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dwy73ktp7QU
Hope it helps..
Please if helpful...

Hello there
I will answer this in 2 sections for testing the burners and the thermostate
Surface Burner Testing:

In order to test the surface burner on your electric range, the following steps should be taken:

1. Before repairs or testing can begin you must disconnect the electricity at the fuse panel, at the circuit breaker panel, or by pulling the plug. Make sure the power is off before proceeding. A jolt from 220 volts can be fatal, use caution!



2. Remove the surface burner from the stovetop. On most electric ranges this can be done by pulling the burner up and out of its plug-in receptacle. Other models have the burner directly wired to the cooktop. To remove this type of burner, undo the screw that secures the burner to the cooktop, remove the clips that secure the insulators to the burner terminals, and carefully unscrew the wires from the terminals. Take care not to bend these terminals.



3. Visually inspect the burner - often there will be small holes or bubbles on the surface of a defective element.



4. Now that you have removed the burner, you can test it using your VOM. Using the ohmmeter function, set the range scale to R x 1 and touch the test leads to the two burner terminals. The VOM should show continuity. Typical burner readings should be somewhere between 19 and 115 ohms, depending on the range manufacturer. If there is no continuity, the burner is defective. To test for a grounded (or shorted) burner, place one test lead on the outside surface of the burner and the other test lead on each burner terminal in turn. If there is continuity at either terminal, the burner is defective.



5. If the burner is defective, replace with a new one by reversing the removal procedure (step 2 above). If replacing a wired-in burner, make sure that you install the wires on the correct terminals, according to the wiring diagram

Oven Thermostat Testing:

An oven thermostat is a switch that opens and closes in response to the temperature it senses. It is typically found in the control panel, where a liquid-filled temperature-sensing bulb senses and maintains the internal oven temperature by cycling heat on and off.

1. Before repairs or testing can begin you must disconnect the electricity at the fuse panel, at the circuit breaker panel, or by pulling the plug. Make sure the power is off before proceeding. A jolt from 220 volts can be fatal, use caution!



2. Access the oven thermostat, which is located in different places depending on the make and model:
   1. On freestanding ranges, access the thermostat by removing the screws that hold the back panel in place at both ends.
   2. On models with front-loading controls, remove the panel and tilt it for access. Be careful not to let the wires disconnect from their components.
   3. Some built-in models have a removable backsplash. Lift the backsplash, rest it on the cook top and remove the screws from the backsplash, which holds the rear panel.
   4. On wall ovens or eye-level ranges, access the control panel by opening the door and removing the screws that secure it. The screws may be under the exhaust hood or below the control panel. If the control panel is hinged, simply tilt it towards you.
   5. On some models both the rear and front control panels must be removed. The screws may be found on the trim and occasionally the trim must be removed.
   
   
   
3. When testing the thermostat switch contacts for continuity, refer to the wiring diagram and remove only those wires being tested - and only one pair at a time. Test switch contact terminals as per your wiring diagram. If the switch lacks continuity at any of the contact terminal points then the entire thermostat switch needs to be replaced.

   Adjusting the thermostat:
   

4. Test the oven temperature by placing the tester in the oven's center and leaving it for 30 minutes at 350 degrees. Record the minimum and maximum temperatures of three cycles, then add those figures together, divide the result by six and you have the oven's average temperature.



5. If the average temperature is more than 25 degrees off, try calibrating the thermostat by following your appliance manual instructions for thermostat calibration.

Hi,
Here is a tip that I wrote that will help figure out why the burner spark keeps on clicking...

Gas Range Repair Burners Keep on Clicking
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4033033-gas_range_repair_burners_keep_clicking

heatman101

Is this an older unit - 5 years or more in use? Sounds like the burner element is shot. Check the Amana web site for a replacement.

Bill B.
San Antonio

1st remove the control knob by off position & pull it one by one then clean it by using vacium.tnx

Hello
That sounds like the electric sending unit to the ignitor are not working properly, they are located under the knobs on the sitch rod. a small ceramic piece with 2 wires, very inespensive and easy to change.
Eddie Rentas
Tupper Lake NY

It needs a new control if it has dials or a control pad or a part if it is electronic. Full make and MODEL (what it is) in all answer please as first 3 words in every question.Edited as model number given Whirlpool GFE471LVShttps://www.whirlpool.com/owners-center-pdp.GFE471LVS.htmlThe Infinite Switches are $130, so it is best to test them with a multimeter first.https://www.partswarehouse.com/Whirlpool-GFE471LVS0-Freestanding-Electric-Range-s/131742.htmVideos showing how to changehttps://www.google.com/search?q=whirlpool+gfe471lvs+replace+hob+infinite+switchOwner Manual, just because it was therehttps://www.manualslib.com/products/Whirlpool-Gfe471lvs0-10479409.html..

Child Lock function is on. https://www.google.com/search?q=Beko+H1164403T+induction+hob+child+lock ..

A) https://hobguide.com/induction-hob-cannot-detect-pan/ B) https://hobguide.com/induction-hob-not-working-on-one-side/ You are advised to not try to get into the electronics of the induction hob. Such is dangerous. The unit uses 3 phase electricity, something unlikely to be addressed by DIY activity if you want to be safe. Check your warranty. I assume this is not a matter of pans of the wrong material or size being deployed. This well may require a technician to sort out. The brand/model has not been identified so I cannot direct you to further resources. Your user manual surely provides a company name where you might seek some customer support.

There seems to be quite a few ways... Check out these sites.. https://www.google.com/search?q=How+can+i+remove+a+stuck+venturi Best to you.

Based on the symptoms described, it is possible that the issue lies with the ceramic element that the burners connect to at the back of the burner unit. This could be causing a short circuit between the two burners, which is preventing the large burner from being adjusted lower when both burners are on. It is also possible that there is an issue with the wiring or connections between the two burners, which is causing a similar short circuit. However, given that the smaller burner appears to be working fine, this seems less likely. Another potential cause of this issue could be a problem with the control board or another component of the stove's electrical system. However, given that replacing the infinite switch and receptacle for the large burner did not resolve the issue, it seems less likely that this is the root cause. In order to determine the exact cause of this issue, it may be necessary to consult with a professional appliance repair technician who can diagnose and repair the stove.