Amana ATB2135HR Top Freezer Refrigerator - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

These Amanda units appear prone to this problem. The fix is use of a drain kit. Your drainage spout is freezing over. The regular spillage is related to the defrost cycle of the fridge. Here is a page listing the kit: Refrigerator Parts

Here you go hope this helps http://www.amana.com/content.jsp?pageName=HT-RF-FreshPerf-11

Are the veg trays right under the drain hole? Check the hole is clear!

NOTE: This
is a multi-solution answer since I don't have all the tech from your question to pinpoint your problem
But the solution is in here generically, if you read and study the solutions very,very carefully.
First I would check cold control. Thats where you turn it off, if your temp is not warm. it can
be defective and not shutting off. If your temp is warm proceed with the following.
I would check the fan in the freezer. Listen to see if it is running
It moves air to the ref from the freezer
Then check to see if FREEZER CONTROL is turned WARMER WHICH MAKES THE REF COLDER AND VICE-VERSA. SEE?
The ref. temp should be about 33-35
The Freezer temp should be 0 to 10 Any thing below these temps is overkill and a waste of elect
The higher the number you turn it up to is the coldest
But is probably a common defrost problem The ice build up
is not being melted by the defrost system.The fan can't blow through the coils into the fridge.
Take out back panel of freezer to check for ice buildup. The coils should be clean.
There are three components to a defrost system- a heater,heater thermostat, and a timer unless you have a defrost electronic card.
Its best handled by a Technician but you could possibly do it by taking your model number to the nearest appliance parts store and asking for the parts. They are mostly located in freezer ,behind back panel on freezer coils.except the card which is usually located in ref The parts store will have info
Also check fan undernearh Ref in the rear
Clean condenser coils underneath
Make sure back cover is on the fridge. Some take them off and throw them away.
make one out of cardboard if its gone, using the holes of the old one.
.I'm including my article on Refrigerator Repair for your help and convenience.;
Please click or copy and paste into browser for Article

http://www.fixya.com/support/r5816737-fix_refrigerator_psychologically

If you need more help go here:

http://www.applianceaid.com/procedures.html

MORE TIPS AND TRICKS:
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STOP PAYING FOR EXPENSIVE WATER FILTERS FOR YOUR REF. DO THIS====
http://www.fixya.com/support/r9962087-stop_paying_high_price_refrigerator
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WATER SPLASHING IN FREEZER AT ICEMAKER
THE FILL TUBE IN BACK OF REFRIGERATOR CAN SLIP
AGAINST THE FILL RESERVOIR CAUSING A PARTIAL BLOCKAGE
OR BECOME CLOGGED WITH ICE.
REMOVE THE ICEMAKER AND INSPECT THE FILL TUBE.
RUN WATER IN TUBE TO ELININATE BLOCKAGE AND CHECK
TEMP IN FREEZER. IF TEMP IS BELOW 0 DEGREES, THATS
OVERKILL AND USUALLY A WASTE OF ELECTRICITY TO KEEP IT THAT COLD, NOT TO MENTION THE FILL TUBE FREEZING UP
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Thanks for using fixya
Leo Ponder
imufo2
Please VOTE FOR ME AND GIVE ME YOUR TESTIMONIAL IF POSSIBLE, IF THIS WAS HELPFUL
ITWILL BE MUCH APPRECIATED.

Hi,
I'm Leo
First I would check the fan in the freezer. Listen to see if it is running
It moves air to the ref from the freezer
Then check to see if freezer control is turned WARMER, which makes the Ref. colder
Also this might be a common Defrost problem, Ice
is not being melted by the defrost system.The fan can't blow through the coils into the fridge.
Take out back panel of freezer to check for ice buildup. The coils should be clean.
There are three components to a defrost system- a heater,heater thermostat, and a timer unless you have a defrost electronic card.
Its best handled by a Technician but you could possibly do it by taking your model number to the nearest appliance parts store and asking for the parts. They are mostly located in freezer ,behind back panel on freezer coils.except the card which is usually located in ref The parts store will have info
Also check fan undernearh Ref in the rear
Clean condenser coils underneath
.I'm including my article on Refrigerator Repair for your help and convenience.;
Please click or copy and paste into browser for Article
http://www.fixya.com/support/r5816737-fix_refrigerator_psychologically
Thanks for using fixya
Leo Ponder
imufo2
Please VOTE FOR ME IF THIS WAS HELPFUL

Take the back off the fridge and there is a fan that should be working transferring cold air to the fridge, see if this is working if not then it needs replaced. Also check for any frozen coils and othe air obstructions and looks like you already done this so check the fan.

Hi,

Many times a freezer and/or refrigerator do not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...there are also many other things that can go wrong.

If you are hearing a clicking or buzzing then check out the last two tips.

If your refrigerator is running but warm, then...

Check out these tips that I wrote about that... it is a great place to start trouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then calling a repair person to do a simple thing for you...

Refrigerator Condenser Coil Cleaning Refrigerator Repair

Refrigerator Troubleshooting Refrigerator Compressor

Refrigerator Compressor Start Capacitor and Start Relay

Refrigerator or Freezer not Cooling or Getting Cold

heatman101

Water valve is faulty dripping and causing line to freeze, replace the water valve and defrost line .

freezer is about 0 to -2 the refrigerator is 36-40 look on your adjustment the factory has put marks or a certain setting that is best for it they usually are in those temperature ranges

The first image below provides a diagnostic procedure for the optics of the ice maker system. I recommend checking the optics first. If the optics components are okay, then the next step would be to check the ice maker module. The test procedure for the ice maker module is provided in the second image below. This test requires placement of an insulated jumper wire in test points of the ice maker module. You should conduct this test only if you are completely confident in your technical ability to safely complete the procedure. Make sure that the refrigerator is unplugged when accessing the ice maker and jumping the test points. The third image below provides a troubleshooting chart based on the results of the test described above. If you are able to test the ice maker, follow the troubleshooting steps based on the results of the test. You should only replace components if you are completely confident in your technical ability to safely complete the repair. If you need more help with this repair

No this is not normal. There is a temperature sensor commonly called a klixon that is strapped to the evaporator coil or a plate mounted to the evaporator coil that should cut the heater power if the coil gets warm enough. The defrost timer could be faulty - running slow and defrost may be a bit longer than usual but the temerature sensor should cut the heater off way before the unit gets that warm. I would get another technician as this is a pretty simple problem to diagnose and repair.

Hi,

Many times a freezer and/or refrigerator do not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...there are also many other things that can go wrong.

If you are hearing a clicking or buzzing then check out the last two tips.

If your refrigerator is running but warm, then...

Check out these tips that I wrote about that... it is a great place to start trouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then calling a repair person to do a simple thing for you...

Refrigerator Condenser Coil Cleaning Refrigerator Repair

Refrigerator Troubleshooting Refrigerator Compressor

Refrigerator Compressor Start Capacitor and Start Relay

Refrigerator or Freezer not Cooling or Getting Cold

heatman101

Ah... where is that manual when you need it! Actually, the internet is WONDERFUL for such emergencies! I found a manual on the FixYa site for you in pdf format. It will be easier to find on your computer!
Now to the soluiton...
Generally with the top freezer designs the main thermostat controls the temperature of the freezer (which should be about -18°C or 0°F and the there is a slide control that allows a metered amount of cold air to drop down into the "fresh food" compartment.
As an immediate adjustment, turn the "Fresh Food" slider down 1 number LOWER that what it is set to at the moment. Is fresh food still freezing? Then put it down another number lower.
But you should also check the temperature of the freezer compartment with some appliance thermometer... leave it in for several hours or overnight for a proper reading if you've just added food to the freezer. It should be around -18°C or 0°F If you adjust the freezer, you may have to go back and readjust the fresh food setting.
I hope this helps! Don't forget to download the digital manual!
/denis

NEVER TRY YOUR SELF ASK MECHANIC TO SORT THE PROBLEM OUT

Set both dials to midddle and not on max colder setting, that starves the reefer box, colder means colder freezer.

Hi,

Check out these tips...they can help you figure out what is going wrong withyour refrigerator and why it is not cooling

Refrigerator not Cooling or Fridge not Cooling

How to Defrost Refrigerator Defrost Timer Problem

Water Running in refrigerator from Freezer

Refrigerator or Freezer not Cooling or Getting Cold
heatman101

Pull the veg. bin draws out and you'll see a hole that could be clogged with food or frozen water. First, clear away food if there is any. Then, pour boiling water into the drain and watch the bottom of the unit where it should be draining into a pan which will evaporate from the heat of the compressor.

Get behind it and clean out the cobwebs. A clean coil is a more efficient coil. You don't need to call anybody to clean it up. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Good day,
There are only 2 items that turn the machine off. The thermostat which is what you described and the defrost timer. Based on what you said, it sounds as if the thermostat is hanging up and not allowing the machine to run.
You access the tstat by removing the top console to access it.
I doubt a meter test will work since just the act of removing it will allow the contacts to close.
The part should be available at any decent sized appliance parts house.

Usually yes thats how it works. Take the fridge side and move it all the way left and see if it clicks off. Wait a few minutes than put it back in the middle. If it clicks off than you are correct so place both knobs near the middle.