20 Most Recent GE XL1800 1100 Watts Microwave Oven - Page 4 Questions & Answers

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The vent fan may be defective or the voltage that drives it is missing.

If everything is normal, the magnetron is the likely issue "heats food" and is the heart of the system, I suggest having it checked.

So, you cleaned the burner per the manual (or the one you looked at when visiting the appliance store,) and it still flames out right after coming on? Sometimes things catch in the works and there are a few methods to clear them out (e.g. at the controls) depending on the model. Beyond that,in order to disconnect the stove and check the inlet filters, you might want to call the appliance or gas co for a technician. No use having leaks, searching forever for the main shutoff valve, etc.

F3 on a GE / Hotpoint microwave means you have a shorted membrane keypad. You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.

It may be a weak VFD tube but more likely that the rear of the display window and front of the display glass are very dusty. Sometimes you can clean it inside to brighten it up. At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes. Then you can detach the keypad connector (as per attached photo) then remove the control panel screws. Be careful not to crack the glass display when handling it, or it's a goner. Then you can use a soft cloth (not a paper towel) and a mild cleaner (not ammonia-based) to clean the front surface of the VFD display glass and the rear side of the clear bezel (display window) that's attached to the keypad. Direct spraying of cleaners on the keypad and steam from the cooktop can damage the controls. I always recommend that you spray non-ammonia cleaner on a soft cloth (not a paper towel which can scratch) and gently wipe the keypad. Some connectors have a lock. If that cleaning didn't help, then you have a weak VFD. On this model, the VFD is not available separately, so you would have to order a new control circuit board for it. It is part number WB27X10437. You can find links to helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts from the Pros here. I'd recommend that your bookmark this link to your favorites. We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

You probably just have a bad humidity sensor (aka gas sensor).Also be sure the internal cooling fan is running. That's critical. We have a sound clip of what a microwave should sound like when the cooling fan and high voltage section are working. To access and replace the sensor, you may need to remove the oven from the wall. If so, the installation instructions are very handy, and it's best to have two people since the microwave can be heavy and awkward. You can find handy exploded views and order parts by model number here. At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes. We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

In a case like this, one should first try to determine if the high voltage transformer is getting 110VAC on its primary terminals when you try to cook. Please be careful if you decide to check this, and do not attach your meter leads to the high voltage side of the transformer. Testing the high voltage will require a proper high voltage probe (not a simple multimeter) and I would not recommend it to anyone without experience. The high voltage can be instantly lethal. It's easier to tell by ear if the high voltage section is getting power. You'll hear a slight thump and hear a slight humming. We have a sound clip of what a microwave should sound like when the cooling fan and high voltage section are working. If it's quieter than usual, then it may be as simple as a bad door switch or switch mount, very common issues. See this help file on door switches. If it's louder than usual, it may be a failed magnetron or a shorted high voltage diode. See these test links: http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/diode.html (if it is NOT shorted or burned looking, it's probably fine) http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/mag_test.html (continuity can be good even though mag is bad!) Once you look all this over, if you're still not sure, or you tend to suspect the magnetron, note that some GE models have a 9-year warranty on the magnetron, some as little as one year. But it depends on the full model number on the tag in the cooking cavity. That tag will also tell you the manufacture date. Your owner's manual will tell you what the warranty is. If for some reason you don't still have your owner's manual, you can download GE owner's manuals and installation instructions here. You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here. If it's still under the magnetron warranty, GE will send you the magnetron free to do it yourself. Call them at 888-239-6832. If it's not under the magnetron warranty, you would have to purchase it yourself. You can find handy exploded views and order parts by model number here. If it's a door switch or mount issue, you would not have to remove the oven from the wall. At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes. Once you have the controller off, the switches are accessible, and the magnetron should be, too. If you need to replace the magnetron, you will need to remove the oven from the wall. If so, the installation instructions are very handy, and it's best to have two people since the microwave can be heavy and awkward. We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

On this model, the power to the turntable motor ("drive motor") is supplied by a tap (outlet terminal) on the internal cooling fan motor. The other side of the turntable motor's power is switched on and off by a relay on the control circuit board. We have a sound clip of what a microwave should sound like when the cooling fan and high voltage section are operating here. It is vital that the cooling fan runs, or the magnetron will be destroyed. When I say internal cooling fan, I do not mean the hood vent exhaust fan which you can turn on and off manually. I'm instead talking about the internal fan which comes on automatically whenever you microwave. If the cooling fan is running, but the turntable is not, then it's probably a relay issue or connection which we can repair. There should be a "mini-manual" (tech sheet) hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting, testing, and locating components. At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes. You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here. We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

On this model, the power to the turntable motor ("drive motor") is supplied by a tap (outlet terminal) on the internal cooling fan motor.The other side of the turntable motor's power is switched on and off by a relay on the control circuit board.We have a sound clip of what a microwave should sound like when the cooling fan and high voltage section are operating here.It is vital that the cooling fan runs, or the magnetron will be destroyed.When I say internal cooling fan, I do not mean the hood vent exhaust fan which you can turn on and off manually. I'm instead talking about the internal fan which comes on automatically whenever you microwave.If the cooling fan is running, but the turntable is not, then it's probably a relay issue or connection which we can repair.There should be a "mini-manual" (tech sheet) hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting, testing, and locating components. At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes. You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here. We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

That would be hard to determine, but if you have a specific microwave oven problem, please post a new help request with your brand, full model number, and detailed symptoms and I'd be happy to help you.

i would imagine its a shield but iam not completely sure without a good look

Hello,Investigate these three areas if your microwave won't heatPower DiodeA diode is an electronic component that readily passes current in one direction only and blocks the flow of current in the opposing direction. If your microwave's diode has become defective, your microwave will not heat. Test the diode to determine if this is the cause of your problem. Replace it if it is defective.Testing a diodeNOTE: Before you test your diode, make sure your microwave is unplugged, and that you discharge the microwave's capacitor.Whether it is shorted or open, a defective diode will most likely show some sign of defect. Defective diodes will usually emit an electrical burning smell, signifying its defectiveness. Also, it may have split in two, or it may exhibit a burned crack, or possibly even a blistered spot.A shorted diode is indicated by a loud humming noise from the high voltage transformer, and no heat produced when a cook cycle is initiated. Whereas little or no heat produced in your microwave, with an absence of a humming noise is indicative of an open diode. In either case, the diode has to be replaced.With your microwave unplugged, and your capacitor discharged, use extreme caution to remove the lead that leads to the capacitor. You can leave the ground connection attached. The side of the diode that goes to the ground is usually marked with a dot, stripe, or arrow. Set your ohmmeter to R x 10,000 or higher. Touch the positive meter probe to the anode and the negative meter probe to the cathode to measure the resistance across the diode terminals. Remember that the cathode is on the side that goes to the ground, which is often marked by a dot, stripe, or an arrow.A normal diode, that is a non-defective diode, will read anywhere from 50,000 to 200,000 ohms. Differences in microwave make and model account for this large range in resistance readings.Reverse the meter probes and measure resistance while touching the positive probe to the cathode and the negative probe to the anode. Reversing the probes like this should result in a reading of infinity. Unless a bleeder resistor is present. The presence of a bleeder resistor would produce a reading of the value of the resistor.High Voltage CapacitorA capacitor is an electrical device which stores electricity. A defective capacitor may be why your microwave is not heating. The capacitor will have to be tested to determine if this is the cause of your problem. A defective capacitor will have to be replaced before your microwave will work again. Make sure you discharge the capacitor before you test it, though.MagnetronA defective magnetron is the third possible cause of why your microwave is not heating. Test your microwave's magnetron. Replace it if it is defective.Testing a magnetronNOTE: Before you test this component, make sure your microwave is unplugged, and that you have discharged the capacitor.There are two tests to conduct in order to determine whether or not a magnetron has become defective. If you receive results other than what are detailed below, you will have to replace your microwave's magnetron. Each test is described for you here:TEST 1: Locate your magnetron and label each of the wires attached to it so that you know which wires are to be replaced where. Set your ohmmeter to the lowest resistance scale. Take a resistance measurement between each of the magnetron's terminals by touching each probe to one terminal each. Reverse the probes and take a second resistance measurement. Each measurement should read less than one ohm.TEST 2: Set your ohmmeter to its highest resistance scale. Touch one of the meter's probes to a magnetron terminal. Touch the other probe to the metal magnetron housing. Take special caution to not touch the two probes together. This could result in an inaccurate reading. This test should produce a reading of infinity - indicating an open circuit.Read the tips on the below links on how to replace your microwave oven's diode and how to discharge the capacitor.http://www.fixya.com/support/r7088355-replace_microwave_ovens_diodehttp://www.fixya.com/support/r7088317-discharge_microwave_ovens_capacitorI hope the above is helpful.Regards.

Since you didn't mention the model number, I have to be kind of general.We have a sound clip of what a microwave should sound like when the cooling fan and high voltage section are operating here.If it's quieter than usual (like the fan is not coming on) then it's likely a bad door switch or door switch mount or possibly a bad relay or connection no the control board, which we repair.If it's louder than usual, that's usually a problem in one of the high voltage parts.A loud buzz, hum, or groan is usually a shorted high voltage rectifier diode, but a sound like gurgling into an empty coffee mug is one symptom of a failed magnetron, and yet the mag can be bad without that sound.There should be a "mini-manual" (tech sheet) hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting, testing, and locating components. At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes. You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number from the tag on the oven here. Here are some links you or someone you know can use for test help, but read their safety warnings first: http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/diode.html http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/mag_test.html http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/xformer.html We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

If the microwave is running but not heating then most likely the door switches are okay and the most likely cause is a bad transformer or magnetron tube.

The parts that could cause this problem are located behind the cabinet.

Microwaves are inherently dangerous to service. Internal capacitors can retain a lethal electrical charge even when the microwave is unplugged.

What is the model number listed inside the microwave?

To clear the child lock, press and hold Clear/Off for 3 or more seconds. (This also toggles on the lock.)

The manual for the GE XL1800 is available from GE on the product site: http://products.geappliances.com/ApplProducts/Dispatcher?REQUEST=SpecPage&Sku=JVM3670SK on the left side of the page. The direct link to the manual is http://products.geappliances.com/MarketingObjectRetrieval/Dispatcher?RequestType=PDF&Name=003679593.PDF .

I hope this helps.

Cindy Wells

Hi,
Here is a tip that will help you to figure out what is wrong with yourMicrowave Oven....

Microwave Oven Basic Troubleshooting Tips

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All you need to do is to reset . you can use the stop key to press for while or open the door. If not remove power or switch off main power for a minute.