I was leaning towards a bad contactor. Either sticking sometimes or not making good contact. I would inspect the contactor for pits or burn marks near the contacts. DO SO WITH POWER OFF of course...but, what's the reset button you are referring to?? I'm assuming this is a heat pump, please send model number!! If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/thomas_092728000e6acb79
Depending on what thermostat youhave and existing wires. Typically red and white are for heat and yellow andgreen are for cooling. On base of thermostat there should be initials stampedto identify wires by color. R. W. Y. G. Possible Rc. and Rh if so for most usesyou need to jumper these two together. You may have a blue wire instead ofyellow or green. If so just hook blue to y or g.
The thermostat has a timer on the on- cycle (5 min delay for the outside unit and blower inside) if you are not gonna call a service guy then ( for $25) you can go to homedepot (whatever you got out there) and buy a honeywell vertical digital heat and ac t'stat.
this one doesnt require you to set it up for a particular application. this may solve your problem. but as for warm air out of the registers you need a service guy to check that
flushing out water lines do you mean condensate line coming off the furnace that drain to the outside. is the condensing unit outside running when u have it in cooling mode. by condensing unit I mean the unit outside that has lines that run to the inside. does that turn on when u have it in cooling. the unit outside have two components that should turn on the outdoor condenser fan and a compressor.
Hi there. I assume the indoor fan runs continuously until the house has cooled down. Clean the condenser. (outside unit) Another possibility is that the system is getting low on freon. Check for leaks with soapy water at all joints and fix them. Thanks Paul
If your indoor unit is electric and not gas or oil, then your problem is either in the control wiring or a relay. With your circuit breaker OFF: Start by removing the wire on "G" at your control board. If you have an older model, there might be a wire nut connection for your thermostat wires.......disconnect the wire nut with the green wire which is the most commonly colored wire used to control the fan. Tape off the end of the wire to prevent it from shorting......turn the breaker on. If the blower continues to run, you have a problem with a relay. If the unit is heating while the fan is running, you most likely have a stuck heating sequencer. If there is no heat, you most likely have a stuck fan relay.
Here is a video to help you identify heat relays/sequencers and fan relays. Having a stuck fan/blower relay is a fairly common problem. Often, you can gently tap the relay to "free" it and stop the fan. However, once they start "sticking", they will continue to do so.
I hope you find this information to be very helpful to you, moving forward. :-)
It sounds like one of the start or run relays are jamming. Have a look for them , usually 1 or 2 where the electrical box is. The relays may have a clear covering over them. if it looks burnt or discolored , then thats the failed one. It is possible it may also be the contactor sticking which is a larger box with wires going in at the top and bottom. Usually, there is a button in the middle which pulls in when the compressor starts and pops out when turned off. The smaller relays, usually only control the fans. You will need to determine, is it the fans not turning off or is it the compressor??
Short of going direct to the manufacturer and getting the genuine part off them using the model number, it would be very difficult. Compressor size and machine size very often have no bearing on what capacitance the capacitor has... Have a very close look at the capacitor for a uf rating.. this is the value you need. sometimes, it is listed on the wiring diagram which is usually behind the panel which covers the main wiring terminal box on the outdoor unit.
The only standard location of the drain line is at the point of origination.....which is the Air Handling Unit. Air Handling Units are typically installed in the Garage, Under the House, in a Closet, or in the Attic. You will have to locate the drain at the Air Handler and follow it to the end. Typically, the end of the drain will be somewhere near your condensing unit. In time, they can get broken off or buried which could make them very difficult to locate. In rare instances, I have seen them terminate into a sewage vent line (NOT recommended and against code in most places). They could terminate just about anywhere; hence, why the best thing to do is to find it at the air handler and follow it to where it leaves your house.
Without being on-site, toolbox in hand, I hope you find this helpful. :-)
Sounds like the breaker is doing it's job. Stopping an over amping condition. You need to find out what the breaker is feeding power to. If it is the outdoor unit or the indoor unit. Also, the wire used has to be sized to the breaker otherwise, it will burn inside the walls and start a fire! Both the indoor and outdoor units should have tags or lables stating what the required amount of power is required. Better not let them do anything else untill you get more info. Sounds very dangerous to me but, I'm not there seeing what's going on.
Hope this helps!
Hi, thermostats is not problem , it's asking for cooling when it should, it's your condensing unit outside, if mechanics said, system is o/k. then it's location of condensing unit, check location of your condensing unit, in relation to direct sunlight, condensing unit best location is always a cool place, preferable away from direct sunlight, check to see, when unit is doing that, if it's expose to direct sunlight, that could be your problem, direct sunlight for long periods could cause the high pressure & temp. controls malfunction. or maybe system is not fully charge with freon, double check freon charge. if direct sunlight is your problem, build a shade or change location of condensing unit, good luck.
