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Whirlpool range door locked
I have had a similar problem(locked after self clean and NO display.) After much research we found the solution through telephonic advice from a master appliance repairman. Mind you that I did NOT get any help from the Whirlpool Customer Service number. Customer Service said it was probably VERY costly to repair and probably a blown circuit board. We were convinced our 2.5 yr old oven was about to cost more to repair than it was potentially worth. Then our telephonic advice from a friend, the master appliance repairman came to our rescue. It was explained to us that whenever an oven in most ANY brand locks and remains locked, it is usually due to a blown out thermal overload protector. This is the thermostatic fuse that will burn out during a self clean cycle and it's designed to help protect your oven from overheating. It is a VERY quick fix but does require a replacement part. But rest assured if I can do this fix, you too can. I am a 46 yr old female nurse without ANY electronics experience and was coached through this by my brother. Here's what to do. Move your oven away from the wall and remove the back panel (simple screws holding it in place.) Unplug your range for safety reasons. If yours is gas (and mine is) be mindful of the gas feed (mine had plenty of slack and presented no problem but worthy of mentioning.) You are looking for a part that's sort of in the 10 oclock position, it's round about the size of a quarter and held in by 2 screws. There are two wires coming into it. My part has the actual part number written on it and was the very part number I was advised to find based off the model number. You can call any appliance parts house (mine is Fox Appliance Parts in Atlanta) and give them your model number of your oven. Ask them for the part number for a "thermal fuse." They will provide the number, ship it to you or if you're local, you can pick it up. It should be around $30. Here's the cool part...you can diagnose this FIRST to see if it will fix your problem by doing this one simple thing. Remove your actual fuse by unscrewing the two screws and then slide off the two wires attached (it will slip out.) Now take the two wires still on the back of your oven and patch the two contacts together. Now plug in your oven....relax...you are merely bypassing the fuse and it will not explode or anything crazy! If the thermal fuse is your problem, your oven display will now magically reappear and the door will unlock! Now you know definitively that this is indeed your problem. Replace the part and you're back in business. You MUST replace the part though as I've been explained that it is a key safety fuse to help prevent overheating, $30 fix, even a GIRL can do it, and it takes about 10 minutes. Try it....You most likely do NOT need a new oven and do NOT need a repairman. And I was ready to replace my 2.5 yr old oven! Totally not necessary and this is something you can do!
on Feb 17, 2015
I am getting an F5E0 messaging when trying to do
it means that your switch on the lock is stuck in the wrong postion literally just fixed mine....lift up the heating elements of top and remove the 8 or so screws that are around the perimeter of the and it reveals the lock switch, myself i just kind of pushed on it to get it to go back haha...i pushed the lock part towards the left side and it slowly moved back on its own....
Hope This Helps you!!!
on Feb 14, 2013
What does the code PF mean?
Code PF means at some point the stove lost electrical power, PF=Power failure detected, this can be the wall plug lost power or it can be the control board inside the range failing.
on Sep 25, 2011
My whirlpool gold accubake made
below are some reasons to this problem;
1) Failed controller board (unlikely if you are getting a clock readout
and you can get the various functions to work, just no heat)
2) Failed door switch
3) Failed thermal fuse, when used
4) Blown power fuse that is dedicated to the microwave circuit
5) Bad diode
6) Bad capacitor
7) Bad magnetron
8) Bad transformer
Door switches insure the microwave circuit will not engage when the
door is open. Slamming the door of the microwave is hard on the switch.
The thermal due is wired into the microwave harness, and is a melting
allow type, based on heat buildup within the oven. Always replace with
a fuse of the same thermal rating.
The power fuse is a special type and should only be replaced with that same type and rating. It is easily tested.
The diode is a relatively inexpensive part, and is not easily tested.
If a grumble is heard coming from electrical area of the unit, then the
diode could be shorted.
A shorted capacitor will blow the fuse immediately. And open capacitor will cause a "no heat" condition.
A bad magnetron will also cause a low level hum or grumble from the
transformer. But is may also cause no other identifiable symptom of
A bad transformer will exhibit a grumble or hum, and may or may not
blow the fuse. But be careful here, the secondary of the transformer
produces very high voltages, up to 2.5Kv. Few people own a meter
capable of measuring such voltages.
Service and repair of microwave ovens is dangerous work. If you don't
know what your doing, DO NOT ATTEMPT TO SERVICE A UNIT WITHOUT
I hope this helps.
on Dec 06, 2010
Why does E1 F5 appear when I'm trying to start the
The E1- F5 error is a door lock error.
The control (TIMER) has likely failed in this instance - BUT...
Sometimes when you disconnect power to a range and reconnect it the electronic range control gets confused.
You should disconnect power again for 15 seconds and reconnect and see if that helps.
If it doesn't cure the E1- F5 error hold the bake button in until E0- F2 appears in the display.
This is the error for a stuck button on the keypad and is the way to clear the memory of the electronic range control.
Sometimes these work, but if the control has failed it won't make any difference.
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on Oct 15, 2010
We have a Whirlpool Gold
The F3 E2 error code indicates that the electronic oven control board in the range senses an over-temperature condition in the oven.
This can be caused by a failed temperature sensor probe, a wiring problem between the sensor and the control board, or a failed electronic oven control board.
If the oven is apparently not overheating when this error code appears, then your likely failure is the temperature sensor probe.
If the oven is overheating, then you likely have a failed electronic oven control board due to a stuck relay not cycling the oven heating element off properly.
For replacement parts - head on over to PartSelect.com or RepairClinic.com and enter in your full model number for a full parts listing.
I recommend both sites because ...
FixYa has no affiliation with either site - I have been using and recommending them for years - trouble free.
PartSelect has a great schematic database for locating the part on your unit and great "testimonials" for each part that often times includes HOW-TO information.
RepairClinic has pictures of each part they sell and also a great how-to and troubleshooting for basic repairs.
If your unit has never been serviced - there should still be an original service manual enclosed in plastic taped to the inside of the shell.
In the service manual are Error codes, maintenance procedures, and troubleshooting steps you can follow.
Anything too complicated or beyond your scope should be handled by a professional.
If you think you want to tackle the repair - and have gotten stuck on a step - reply to your question and I will be glad to help you out.
Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question(*&&^YH
on Oct 01, 2010
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