Greetings:
I just bought one of these at a 'Goodwill" store near me yesterday. It
came with nothing, no cables or adapters of any kind. And, of course,
the battery was dead as a doornail. First item on my to-do list was,
read the voltage/amperage ratings. 9 Volts DC at 2 amps. (or 2000ma, if
you like) OK, I have a lot of wall warts and such around, and know how
to change the tips. No problem. RIGHT! The tip is a very obscure and
hard to find type, but I did find a type that will work. (Radio Shack
sells replacment tips, and a type "H" would be the closest I've found
thus far) The center of the tip is Positive, and the outside negative.
There are two ports for power... One on the battery, and one on the
body of the player. (In the rear of left side, clearly marked) I
couldn't find any 9 volt adapters that had anywhere near the amprage
needed, so I went with my next best adapter, one rated at 10.6 volts
DC. This happens to be an old HP adapter for a printer or scanner, I
forget which. (I have many) So, I know that there will be a voltage
drop when the power adapter is under load, as very few are regulated.
Close enough. The amp output on this one is a bit less than 2 amps, but
I figure that a fully charged battery can help 'fill in' the rest. (I
charget the batt overnight, until I got a green light on it) Batt is
rated as 7.6 volts DC at 2.8 amps. (Lithium ion type)
OK, so we should be in business. But, as I have read elsewhere, after a
few minutes of play, the screen looses synch. Goes all sideways and
rolling at sametime. This CAN be a sign of insufficent power supply. I
next go to a power supply I made just for this project, using two small
old computer power supplies, giving me exactly 9.2 volts DC (Regulated)
at upto 12 amps. Plenty! (If anyone wants to know how to use computer
PS units to get custome voltages, write and I'll provide source of
tutorial)
I never did get around to making any adapter cords for the A/V stuff...
No point. This unit, like all the others I've read about, has a really
bad design flaw. I suspect it's a defective run of, or impoperly
selected type of, or improperly heatsinked horz output transistor. It's
either the wrong type, (Not rated high enough, aka: too cheap!) or it
was not designed in rightly, (IE: No allowance for heat buildup) or the
company bought a bad run of these. I could be wrong, of course, I
haven't done a post mortum on it yet. But thaqt's my best guess at this
point. I've had this thing less than 24 hours. Paid $20.00 USD, a steal
if it worked at all. Robbery if not. If I come up with a real solution,
I'll post it. If I discover the actual cause of the much reported loss
of synch, ditto.
Junkman
[email protected]
