20 Most Recent Hoover HDC7FM Dryer Questions & Answers

Let me ask you one question. Are either of you having any problems as far as performance with your dryers? If not, do you still have your owner's manual that came with the dryer? There is a possibility that an extra was inside, all this time; and worked its way into the tumbler. I have known on occasion where there is a factory defect causing the wear to happen much more quickly so an extra part, in this instance an extra belt; would be given inside the owner's manual or the dryer cabinet itself. I'd check my manual first. Then, if I wasn't having any problems I wouldn't look for any. Neither of you mentioned any problems with the way the dryer worked or sounded. On the one with 2 wks. over warranty, I would at least contact the place where it was purchased if you ARE having a problem. If they are reputatable, Hoover is good about honoring their warranties within a few days. The store may take care of it, if they want your business again. Good luck to both of you. It'll be OK. Get back with me if there is a problem you didn't mention, OK? Keep smiling & have a Good One.

Hoover HDC7FM... | Answered on Jan 04, 2018

You Tube has videos to show you, make sure its unplugged.

Hoover HDC7FM... | Answered on Oct 11, 2014

clean the sensor beneath the lint trap, be careful as not to damage it

Hoover HDC7FM... | Answered on Aug 14, 2011


Hoover HDC7FM... | Answered on Dec 27, 2010

There can be many reasons why your dryer2_bing.gif will not turn...

This tip that I wrote will help you to figure out what is happening...

Dryer2_bing.gif Repair - The Dryer2_bing.gif is not Turning

Dryer2_bing.gif Repair ? The dryer2_bing.gif will not start


Hoover HDC7FM... | Answered on May 28, 2010

it may not be exactly what you are dealing with, but might give you a frame of reference:

As you can see, the timer switch control is defined by "Y", "R", and "Q" switches on the diagram, what these switched do and when they time out is illistrated on the table below.

Lets go with a simple timed tumble dry, set the timer and push the start switch, the start switch is pressed with time on the timer, switched Y,R, and Q close, the centrifugal switch in the moter closes, giving you a latching ciruit (hold the dryer on once you release the start button)

Voltage from L1 travels through R and into the high limit and tstat connected, then it will enter termal H3. This may be where you are seeing your "bridge".

From the looks of this diagram, the 1500W element is always on as long as there is voltage suplied at H3 and H2, the operator will have a switch that will determine whether the 3700W element will engergize at EX3. Currently, this drawing seems to illistrate both elements engergized.

So yes, one side of your element should always have 120 volts of electricity going to it. This 120 volts will be on potential L2. When the proper switches are closed (high limit/t-stat, etc) you will suply L1 potential of 120 volts to the other side of the element. This will give the element a 240 volt supply. If you were to take the other side of the element and ground it, or run it to a neutural, or ground it, it wont work, infact, it might short out, and throw sparks.

This will help. Thanks please keep updated.please do rate the solution positively .thank you for using fixya

Hoover HDC7FM... | Answered on Jan 03, 2010

Hi either the vents are clogged with lint and you will have to get those brushes to clean the lent traps. or it is the element. Probably the former and not the latter. But it depends on the age of the dryer.

Hoover HDC7FM... | Answered on Jul 19, 2009

what is it you need? you make no mention of that.

Hoover HDC7FM... | Answered on Jun 21, 2009

Thank you,
My machine problem was resolved by changing the heater element to one from an old machine.

Hoover HDC7FM... | Answered on Jun 19, 2009

Open the dryer door (right after the breaker trips) and check for a burned smell. If it smells in the dryer, you probably have a direct short in the dryer wiring. Check for a burn smell at the wall socket. There may be a short in the socket itself, but not likely unless a mouse is lying across the contacts in the wall.
If everything checks ok replace the circuit breaker if this is an older home. Circuit breakers weaken after years of use. A 30 amp circuit breaker will trip at a much lower amperage after a period of years especially if it has tripped often.

Hoover HDC7FM... | Answered on Mar 12, 2009

Hi, looks like there's 1 of 2 faults. Either the stats or the heating element. They are located at the back of the TD, covered bi a screwed panel. If you have a multimeter, turn it to buzz and check the connections. If the meter buzzes it's ok, if the meter doesn't buzz it's dead and needs replacing.

Hoover HDC7FM... | Answered on Feb 19, 2009

if its gas check the flame out switch
if its electric u may have a bad on/off switch

Hoover HDC7FM... | Answered on Jan 14, 2009

You might want to check to make sure that you bought the correct replacement belt. A new belt SHOULD fit correctly if the replacement belt is the right one? Did you buy an original belt or a generic one? I have ran into problems by trying to substitute for the original. If I were you, I'd double check the belt #. It sounds to me like the belt might actually be the wrong one & be a little shorter than the original. Let me know if that works for you? It should. Good luck and have a good day!

Hoover HDC7FM... | Answered on Jan 13, 2009

can you rotate the drum by hand? the humming noise is the motor trying to turn,you should be able to turn drum by hand, it could a faulty 'condensur' for motor start up,get back if you can't sort it.good luck eire

Hoover HDC7FM... | Answered on Aug 16, 2008

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