Top 20 Hotpoint WMA64 Front Load Washer Questions & Answers

Could be either,

What do you need to know? do you need a board or just have a ?

Try to get the repair manual for your machine, it's worth the cost. Meanwhile, with the power unplugged, undo any wire connectors that just plug in and check for corrosion. Check the capacitor, a dent will ruin it.

Besides visually looking at the capacity, what are you looking for?

Is there a self cleaning function? Use that if machine needs cleaning.

Nothing is mentioned in the manual about a filter and I can't find one so I assume there isn't one...

Possible that the SPIN Speed is too low, check the drive, the RPM of the motor. Check for friction of the spindle , check for free movement of the drum. If you notice a change then you will need to reset the mechanism. If the motor speed is low check the capacitor.

see the causes and fix it. God bless youoor Switch This can cause the washer to agitate but not go into the spin cycle. You will need to remove the door switch to check it. You will perform an ohm reading on the bottom terminals. The reading varies from manufacturers most Frigidaires is around 1500 ohms others like the whirlpool duet is checked at the main control board with the door closed should be around zero ohms. You will need to refer to the tech sheet or service manual for the proper reading. Main Control Module / CCU The main control unit is the circuit board located behind the console. If the door switch tests good the main control is usually the problem. Check all connections for a goood tight fit. You will need to refer to the tech sheet or service manual to check this further. The main control is easy to replace. Motor Control Module The motor Control Module is located inside the cabinet down near the motor. This recieves the signals from the main control module then relays this information to the motor. Check all connections sometimes a communcation problem is just a loose connection. The Motor Control Module is easy to replace. To check this further you will need to refer to your tech sheet or service manual.

Thermistor is resistance which changes in value when it is hot. So this acts as a thermocouple.In this case it is possible that the power control has failed from the board, it can be due to damaged connectors or links. Use a meter to test the continuity.

DOES THIS MACHINE HAVE WEIGHT MESSURING DEVICE OR A BALANCING DEVICE, IF SO IT IS IN THE CIRCUIT BOARD WHERE THE PROBLEM IS ,PULL THE BOARD AN HAVE IT CHECK OR SIMPLE REPLACE IT.

Check out the carbon brushes in the motor. Theyre graphite blocks which transfer mains power to the copper segments of the motor - located at the other end of the motor from the drive pulley. Theyre probably worn down. They're quite cheap parts and easy to replace - the holders are plastic or bakelite and are generally held in with screws or plastic clips. Also, look at the copper segments they run on to check for burning or pitting. If the segments are burnt or damaged you need a replacement motor or a replacement armature (motor part) if you can source one. Occasionally may be a fault in the motor drive circuit board - in which case replacement of board only real option. Other possible causes of spin problems: Faulty pressure switch - machine "thinks" the drum is still full of water so wont enter the spin cycle. Spin problems may also be caused if the machine reckons the load is out of balance, rearrange the load. If problem persists could possibly be a fault in the out of balance detector switch or the suspension and damping system.

its not a number,, its a round circle symbol.. there are 2,, 1 is a half spin,, and the other is a full spin

If the machine didnt finish the cycle due to the pump being clogged the door will remained locked also if the lock mechanism went bad, the machine will stay locked. Remove the top of the machine by taking the screws from the top back out. Once removed look down the right hand side and you'll see the lock mechanism, usually with a plastic tab you pull to manually release the lock. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3

This means that the door switch is faulty or that the main controller board or connectors are loose or have a poor connection.
So the best way is to check the door switch, use a good degreasing spray like WD40 to clean tteh contacts, remove the connections of the board, clean spary and reset.
Make sure when the door is shut the switch contact is closed and contacting.

You have a mildly confused machine, probably the result of the fact that there is a moment where the door lock can activate, but the sensor that tells if it's shut cant because the door isn't QUITE pushed home hard enough.

First try, just give the door a whack with the heel of your hand in line with where the door catch is. It may be that simple to relocate the door and the sensor properly

Failing that, unplug at the wall and wait 20 minutes. This will, without doubt reset the machine and allow you to open it (While it is still powered off!). Open the door and shut it firmly.... I hesitate to say SLAM the door.... But slam-ish won't hurt, just don't be stupid about it!

All should be OK going forward

Maximum load 5.5Kg

Wash Load Examples:

Two examples

of maximum

wash loads for

different types

of fabric.

COTTON

2 Bath Towels

5 Shirts

6 Blouses

1 pair of

Pyjamas

4 items of

Underwear

= 5.5kg

SYNTHETIC

2 Children's

Dresses

4 Shirts

4 Blouses

1 pair of

Pyjamas

4 items of

Underwear
= 3kg

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,

It does sound as if the motor requires replacement. It is not uncommon to find that the brushes are worn sufficiently for them to not make perfect contact with the commutator.

Now, a word or two of advice from this old hand- it might be suggested that just the brushes on the motor want changing; experience (of others) suggests that they may only last months rather than many years UNLESS the motor itself is refurbished. Refurbishment includes skimming the commutator on which the brushes run. Without skimming the brushes do not sit cleanly on the commutator (like the worn ones!), often causing excessive sparking and excessive wear on BOTH. Alternately a new motor! I changed the motor on our 19+ year-old Bosch at a cost of GBP250 ;-0(
The choice of course is entirely up to you- but do not forget that it is not an uncommon fault, especially if the washer is not exactly new. Others I have given this advice to have chosen new brushes and I don't blame them!
If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
'....wont drain the water....'

I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor/pump lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to rinse or spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Following are my complete and hopefully 'coverall' pre-typed guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor ;-0)
REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT (alternatively use a wet vac as sensibly suggested by VinnyB1234!)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play.
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

Thanks for choosing FixYa and welcome. If you have a washer that has a weak agitation or no agitation at all, here are some possible solutions. You need to check your belts. Most washers have one or two belts. Check your lid switch. If a lid switch is bad, it can cause the washer to not work properly. Sometimes, they will not work at all. Make sure you check your drive motor. The drive motor controls the spinning, draining, and agitation. Most washers have the reverse motor, meaning the shaft rotates in both directions, clockwise and counterclockwise. It is possible to lose one direction and not the other. Some washers have a clutch that controls the agitation. If it is bad or worn, it may prevent the agitator to work. Most of these washers come from General Electric. You could have a bad motor coupler. They are located on the side of the motor drive inside the washer. It is also possible that you have a bad transmission. Check the agitator itself. You could have a bad spline or two. The splin accompanies the shaft and allows the movement of the agitator. If you rule out all the parts above, you may have an electrical issue or an issue with the control board. It is very important to test each part and make sure it is getting power. If a part is not working and not getting any power, the power loss may be the reason that it doesn't work. You can test the current in the wires with a voltage meter. Thank you very much for reading this tip and thank you for using Fixya