Magic Chef CER3760 Electric Kitchen Range - Page 2 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Have u looked up the error codes online to find out what F3 is? Could be your thermal regulater, a cheap and really easy novice fix.

The oven probably has an igniter to light the pilot, and when not in use, shuts the gas off. Unplug the stove to replace the igniter. Enter your stove info and "how to replace oven igniter" on you tube for videos and detailed instructions.

Get an oven temperature thermometer and place in your oven. You can then check the temperature at all three settings.

Yellow is sign of incomplete combustion. You need to give it more oxygen and yes, there is an adjustment for high altitude conditions. Your manual will advise. Go to web site for manual if you cannot find it.

Yes, there is an LP conversion kit for the CPR1100ADW. Sears Parts Direct lists it here: http://www.searspartsdirect.com/model-number/cpr1100adw/1429/0124002.html . Select the Gas Control drawing. The direct link to the LP orifice kit, part number 74009923, is http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part-number/74009923/0022/464.html?modelNumber=CPR1100ADW&categoryName=Free%20Standing,%20Gas&brandName=MAGIC%20CHEF . Note: the Magic Chef range uses the same parts as a Whirlpool or Maytag range. The gas regulator also has to be adjusted. Most ranges with converter kits available just require the regulator to be removed and turned 180 degrees before replacing it. It's recommended that a LP service person do the work. The air flow may need to be adjusted and any mistakes could be dangerous. I hope this helps. Cindy Wells

changing from natural gas to lp gas requires different jet sizes and air shroud adjustments the information to get a professional gas fitter to do the conversion is valid as gas in is not in the domain of DIY A n accredited gas fitter will have the correct jet sizes available, will be able to set the air shrouds correctly and adjust the gas regulator correctly to the gas flow required Gas is more lethal than electricity with a much more destructive force .

Since all installs are unique I have no way to advise you.

Have you checked the internal temp with an oven thermometer? The thermostat might need calibrating or replacing, or, (if electric) the oven might be seeing an "overload" condition and shutting off.

As long as the new element has the same wattage rating and you performed the receptacle installation correctly, there is no reason why this cannot work. Using the wrong wattage rating element can have impact on the control regulator knob for the element.

F3 is a bad oven sensor

Separate igniter for oven. If bad activates gas safety valve. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/howard_977676954994c5b2

Hi, I'm assuming you have a gas oven. You may have a sensitivity to combustion by products like CO2 (carbon dioxide) or CO (Carbon Monoxide) that are produced when the oven operates or there could be a malfunction with the oven. You didn't specify a make or model, but it's important to keep the oven clean as well. In either case, crack a nearby window when using the oven if you have one and see if that helps. Some newer homes are so tight that the oven may not have enough fresh air and the by product gasses are building up. If the condition persists, you may want to call a repair service to check the appliance. Also, all homes should be equipped with combination smoke and carbon monoxide detectors. The CO detector will alarm if the gas concentration starts to build up, signaling a potentially dangerous situation.

Hey Lisa, Go to this link and download the manual for your oven or call customer Support. You did not provide the Model Number so I cannot further assist you. Best of Luck! JP MC Appliance Product Manuals

Model? Try these https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=how+to+open+top+to+replace+burner+magic+chef&qpvt=How+to+open+top+to+replace+burner+magic+chef&FORM=VDRE

The thermocouple or thermal capillary is not the only cause of failure; a burned-out or broken heating element is more likely the problem in an electric range. You can check the element by unplugging the range, disconnecting one of the wires to the element, then testing the element for continuity using an ohmmeter. Access to the burner connections varies by model. If you see a couple of screw heads inside the oven where the ends of the element meet the back wall of the oven, you may be able to get at the connections by removing those screws, then gently pulling on the element to bring the connecting wires inside the oven, then undoing one of the screws attaching the wires to the element (avoid excess force on the element; you don't want to crack the ceramic inside it). If you can't get at the connections this way, you'll have to remove the back of the oven. This may actually be easier than crawling around inside the oven anyway. In a gas range with a gas pilot or an electronically fired gas pilot ignitor, a common problem is clogging in the flame orifice(s); this is visible as a white buildup in the orifice hole(s). Low gas pressure in the pilot can also cause ignition failure if it can't sustain the pilot flame long enough for the flame sensor to enable the main gas valve. I'm sorry I can't give you more than a generic answer; the model number or part number you provided doesn't come up on any searches. Perhaps it is actually the stock number from one particular supplier, or there is a typo in it.

I'm not and expert in "self-cleaning" but I unserstand that it is a property of the interior COATING of your kitchen. It burns any "adherence" keeping your kitchen clean, just wash it with milg water when colds down.

Did you turn on propane and are tanks full

Hit the SOB with a 12lb sledge like I did. Put out the alarm & then some! Id never own another Magic Chef product!

Answer: It is a 12v DC motor (the same voltage as a normal car) so you can fairly easily test it once you remove it (horribly painstaking process). It should be straightforward on the test method, but basically just put the positive (red) to the positive, and negative (black) to negative. If the motor does not turn, it's bad. I am in the midst of this right now also, I pulled my $500+ electric fireplace apart (like 50 or more screws) and found out that the motor casing had melted a little bit, causing the motor inside to seize up that usually turns the artificial flame deal. I have searched everywhere to try to find the part for under $30, but I cannot. It is a very simple part, a 12v geared motor with about 15-20rpm. This motor should be about $10, but since it's a special item, it's $30 plus shipping... it took me about 30 minutes to take my stove apart to figure out what the issue was, then I have had the issue of having no part numbers on the product I was trying to find, leading me to attempt to describe it via google. This may be a product that I will send to china to replicate and sell here for the correct price. There is no need for the $35 price tag.

sounds like you're having a problem with your thermocouple that's what regulates the temperature of the oven you can either try to clean it off or replace it