20 Most Recent Malber WD1000 Front Load Washer/Dryer - Page 2 Questions & Answers

Your picture was a big help in figuring out your problem. The "secondary thermostat" (the little round one) has two terminals, both designated "T13". An orange wire connects the left terminal to the top of the "Working Thermostat" (nearer the front - with long sensor probe), and TWO gray wires connect to the right terminal. In your picture, one of the wires looks brown. It's not. That's just a gray wire that got hot. Connect your loose gray wire (it should be marked T13) to it, so both gray wires connect to the right terminal spade. So your hunch was correct. Funny, I've repaired 40-50 WD1000s over the last 8 years, and I've never seen or heard of a machine shaking these spade connectors off. They go on TIGHT, and stay on! So, your experience is a new one for me. Mike (Wash DC suburbs)

this could be normal, flushing the lint out of the drain hose. Mine does that as well. i find lint in the grey water tank. I live on my boatfull time. My heat has gone out now. cant determine if :its the thermostat or the heating element.

Hi. I''m assuming you are referring to a WD1000. To initiate the drain cycle: Rotate far right knob CLOCKWISE to Position 4. It may take 30-45 seconds to recognize the knob's new position, but then it will begin an 11 minute Slow Tumble/Pump Out cycle. During this cycle you'll see the internal drum slowly rotate CW for 60 seconds, pause, then rotate CCW for 5 secs - then repeat. All this time the pump will run and you'll hear water running down the drain. When you hear no more water you can rotate same knob to "straight up", and stop the machine. To turn power off, press the rightmost button.

Washing machines are not designed to condense moisture, they are designed to clean fabric. It is always advisable to use the correct appliance for the correct purpose. Please take it from personal experience that you cannot cook a turkey with a blender ;)

Simple. When in the Drying Cycle, does the water pump turn on and pump out a 4-8 ounces of water - about every 4-5 minutes? To check, pull the drain hose out of the wall (drain pipe) and hold it a few inches above the drain pipe, so you will be able to see when water comes out. Typically, the pump turns on for about 30 seconds every 4-5 minutes. It is important that the cold water is turned on, and is available all through the drying cycle, because a light spray is constantly used to cool the internal condenser. I'm assuming the Dryer is getting hot. If not, see previous posts about the Heating Element and Working Thermostat. I'm also assuming the little blower fan is working. It's at the very top, slightly to the back right. It should be on continuously, during drying. Remove top (2 torx screws at rear) to observe.

The Malber service center number in NYC is 718-767-7396. Try calling them to find out where you can get parts. Hope this helps

This problem is usually the front door latch "interlock" is not engaging. This is the safety device which keeps you from opening the door and pouring gallons of water on your feet. When you close the door, if the machine DOESN'T recognize it's closed - all electricity is cut off and the machine does nothing. If the machine DOES recognize the door is latched, the latch will lock and you can't open the door (for about 90 secs after you turn it off or unplug it). Does the door LOCK when it's closed? If not, just close it harder several times. A medium "slam" almost always takes care of a "sticky" interlock - and it doesn't hurt anything.

These European machines have "English" (Whitworth) threads on the hose connectors. They look like American standard (NPT/NPS) threads used on everything here in the States, but are slightly different. Consequently, your hook-up hoses are special, having American NPS threads at the faucet end, and Whitworth threads at the Washer end. Buy them from Malber. You can find Malber Distribution Corp online, or call them at 516-323-5299. Tell them Mike, in DC, says hi.

Sorry to see this 16 months too late. You can find Malber Distribution Corp online, or call them at 516-323-5299. Tell them Mike, in DC, says hi.

Absolutely! Cold water must be available during the Dry Cycle because it sprays a fine mist on the Condenser to keep it cool. This is how it removes moisture from the hot, damp air circulating through the Dryer.

I have the same problem but I am in New York.

Please see my response to "Washer Door Stuck"

Something is causing the drum to be way out of balance. Does it bang and make noise when it's spinning empty? Probably not. Is something stuck on the side (inside of course) of the drum, causing it to shake when spinning? If not, a spring or shock absorber (connecting drum to sides, bottom or top of machine) has broken or come loose.

If I understand your question correctly . . . Here are the wire colors connecting to the heater enclosure: From the front, on the right side of the heater assembly (wrapped in shiny foil): First, the "working thermostat" (which cycles heat on and off to maintain 155 deg) - red on bottom, gray on top. That gray wire goes over to the right, connecting to either side of little round "overtemp - klixon" sensor, at a double connector (two gray wires). A brown wire goes to other side of klixon sensor. At rear of heater assy is another klixon sensor and the ends of the heating element itself From L to R: Short black "jumper" wire goes from left connector (Klixon) over to far right connector (on heating element). Long black wire goes 2nd to L, and long red wire goes 2nd to R (again on heater).

I think your water pump has died, or its little impeller broke. The first thing to determine is: Can it pump out the water? When the dial turns (itself) to "4", it begins an 11 minute period where it alternately runs the drain pump, while slowly tumbling the clothes CW then CCW. Do you see water coming out the drain hose? If you do, the pump & impeller are fine. You might have a clogged "coin trap". That's the little basket behind the trap door on the front lower right corner. When this is opened, any water in the Washer will pour onto floor (or a catch pan), so be careful. Open the access door (pry it with a kitchen knife or screwdriver); slowly unscrew the "basket" (placing shallow pan or towel under it), and pull the basket out to remove any clogging buildup which could block the water from exiting. If the basket is not clogged, there could be a clog in the hoses. Pull the drain hose out of the drain pipe, and blow hard into the end. If the hose is not clogged, air will come out of the "basket" receptacle, which you can hear and feel. If nothing is clogged, you're back to testing the pump. It is at the back right, bottom, where the drain hose exits the Washer. Pull the machine out to access the back; remove back (ten 1.5mm Torx screws); listen to see if drain pump motor hums (it doesn't run all the time); There are two wires connecting to the little motor - they are simply 120 Volt A/C (like from a wall outlet). You could pull the 2 connectors off and temporarily connect your own extension cord - to see if motor runs when A/C is applied. Being A/C, it doesn't matter which wire goes where. If the pump is bad, I have one. Call me at 703-851-6536.

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