20 Most Recent Edirol PCR-30 EDRPCR30 Keyboard Questions & Answers


try this
get the manufacturers web page up for that key board, find the down load for that model and your operating system and down load the software and driver
to make sure go to control panel > keyboard , right click to get properties and click on compatibility tab
click box and high light your operating system and apply
regardless if usb ( plug and play -PNP) or wifi it still needs drivers and you cannot rely on Microsoft for having the latest drivers

Edirol PCR-30... | Answered on Dec 05, 2017


These are notoriously unreliable - the contact pads age whether they are played or not.

Roland/Edirol should be able to supply a set of replacements if you can track down a service agent.

In my experience ( in the UK ) their service sucks.

They have an ex-employee who does the warranty repairs from shed at home and that's it!

They won't deal direct with the public and their sales chain can't be bothered to order parts.

Good luck.

Edirol PCR-30... | Answered on Jun 25, 2011


Hi,
You can download the installation driver and software from manufacturer's support website by clicking this link

http://www.roland.com/products/en/_support/dld.cfm?PRODUCT=PCR%2D30

Hope this solves your problem. Thanks for using FixYa

Edirol PCR-30... | Answered on Feb 17, 2011


I have a PCR-30 here that has developed several dead keys over the years.  I took the thing apart to clean the contacts and see if I could improve things -- unfortunately, it had the opposite effect, and I was left with only a few keys that *did* work.
I have since found a solution though, and now have a fully-functioning keyboard once again!
You'll need a tube of pure, dry graphite powder (only a couple of bucks from your local auto-supply shop), a tiny craft paintbrush, and a willingness to take your toy apart :)
Open the PCR up, and remove the springs holding the keys on.  I used a slotted screwdriver to jam into each spring, and lift it off the hooks.  I'd suggest keeping the keys in order to make it easier to put back together.
Now pull off the grey rubber contact sheets.  Clean out any dust that's under there, but don't be too abrasive or use chemicals.  We want to keep the existing contact material intact.
Put a little graphite powder in a small dish.  You won't need much.  It may seem a little clumpy, but it's actually extremely fine.  So fine, in fact, that if you smear it on your fingers it feels greasy, despite being completely dry.
Dab your brush in there to break it up, and get the brush well-impregnated.  Paint some powder on each of the contact surfaces both on the board side, and on the back of the grey rubber sheet.  Be careful not to connect the spaces between the contacts on the board... graphite is highly conductive, and you don't want an always-on key.
As you smear each contact with graphite, you'll notice it become a little shinier if you look at an angle.  You'll also get powder spattered around places, but don't worry.  Just blow off the excess.
Once you've done all of the contacts, place the rubber sheets back on (this can be kind of a pain, getting all the pegs back in the holes.  Hook it up and give it a test (just use your fingers to push the rubber pads), and repeat the process for any keys that still aren't working.
Once they're all back to 100%, replace the keys and reassemble.  You're good to go!
-Ben

Edirol PCR-30... | Answered on Jun 27, 2010


Electronic keyboards use capacitors, for the individual notes, when you press the key's on the keyboard.

(There are other electronic components used in conjunction with the capacitors, but capacitor failure is the most common)
There may be more than one capacitor used for an individual note.

Electrolytic Capacitors.
Electrolytic capacitors can break down over time, and fail.

An Electrolytic Capacitor is essentially a small aluminum 'can' with the components inside.

There are three strips that are rolled up together, and inserted into the can.

1)One strip is a metal conducting strip. Thin as tinfoil.
2)One strip is a non-conducting strip. Made of thin metal also, and has a non-conducting coating applied to it.
3) One strip is a paper, and is soaked with Electrolytic Paste.

The paper strip is laid in-between the metal conducting strip, and the non-conducting strip, and all three are rolled up together.

The conducting strip has a lead connected to it. It's the Positive lead
The non-conducting strip has a lead connected to it.
It's the Negative lead.

The 'Can' has a rubber seal on the bottom. Envision a round rubber plug, that resembles a small plate, if you will.

The Electrolytic paste breaks down. When it does it forms a gas. This gas expands, and compromises the seal. Pushes an edge of the seal out of the can.

The 'Can' also has a shape etched part way, into the top of the can. Usually a X or lK shape. The gas can expand, and break this shape open.
(Example: The X shape pops open like fingers standing up. The areas in-between the X)

When this happens paste oozes out.
So much paste loss, and the capacitor operates at a lessor degree.
Too much paste loss, and the capacitor fails. Doesn't work at all.
Sometimes the paste just dries up.

To explain further about Electrolytic Capacitors, and their construction,

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrolytic_capacitor

[The Electrolytic Capacitors used in computers, and electronic keyboards, are shown in the second photo down, on the right side. The capacitor on the bottom of the second photo, is what I'm referencing to.

Scroll down to the Construction heading also)

Solution to fixing this problem?
Replace the capacitors that have failed with the same capacitance.
(Same Microfarad rating, same voltage)

Problem is, you need to diagnose what circuit the capacitor, or capacitors are in.

The circuit that has the capacitors, that the notes do not play.

You may be able to do a simple visual diagnoses, for obvious signs of capacitor failure. If the paste has dried up inside the capacitor, there are no outside visual signs.

This link gives you info about Visual Signs of Capacitor failure. It is related to computer motherboards, but will crossover to all Electrolytic Capacitors of this style,

http://www.capacitorlab.com/visible-failures/index.htm

This is an example, of an electronic keyboard's circuit schematic,

http://www.musicfromouterspace.com/analogsynth/keybrdcontroller.html

This is information stated to give you a brief explanation, as to why certain notes do not play on your keyboard.
It is Not advice to repair it yourself.
I want you to be SAFE.
I just wanted to give you information to your problem.

HOWEVER, if you have soldering skills, and a decent background in electronics, you MAY feel comfortable in trying to fix the problem yourself.

If you Do Not see obvious visual signs of capacitor failure, you will need a circuit diagram to find what, or which, capacitors have failed.

To my knowledge, only the manufacturer of the keyboard has this info.
I have seen a few schematics on the internet, listed for various electronic keyboards. They are not free, however.

Other than this, you would have to remove capacitor after capacitor, and replace them one at a time, until the bad capacitor is found.

NOTE*
1) Power HAS to be removed from the electronic device FIRST!

2) Electrolytic Capacitors can hold a charge for weeks, sometimes months, after the power source has been removed!

As you can see by the photo reference I gave, there are two leads, or terminals, coming out of the bottom of the capacitor.

If your finger/s touch both of these leads at the same time, the charge stored in the capacitor will be released to YOU!

IF, your fingers touch a circuit that a capacitor is in, and your finger/s complete the circuit, the charge can be released to YOU!

Bad shock to fatal! Depends on the size, and voltage of the capacitor.

A tech will discharge the capacitors before working on the electronic device. I will not state here how to do this. One wrong move, and the capacitor could blow up.
(Using a metal screwdriver to discharge is NOT the way to proceed! NEVER do this!)



Edirol PCR-30... | Answered on Jan 03, 2010


I had the exact same problem with my Casio keyboard and a Yamaha sustain pedal I bought.

I'm not an electrical genius, but I was able to get it to work by opening it up and doing a little modification. Of course I first just tried switching the white wire with the black one but that didn't change anything at all when I tried it. It turns out the Casio wants the circuit completed to sustain, and broken for no sustain, which is the opposite of what the Yamaha pedal does.

I opened it up and mine had three three flat metal strips let's call them Top, Middle and Bottom. The Middle and Bottom ones were joined together on the right side, and the Middle and Top ones were touching on the left side when the pedal was not pressed. These seperated when the pedal was pressed, thereby breaking the circuit because the wires were on the top plate and on the joined Middle/Bottom plate.

So to flip it I:
1. Unsoldered the Bottom wire
2. Cut apart the Bottom and Middle plates on the right.
3. Bent the Middle plate on the right to touch the Top plate instead and soldered those together.
4. Soldered the Bottom wire back on.

That's it! Once I figured it out, it took only a few minutes to fix.
Good luck!
Paul

Edirol PCR-30... | Answered on Aug 15, 2009


pour milk on it... they say that fixes. mostly

Edirol PCR-30... | Answered on Jun 30, 2009


I have done some research on this and It would seem that there were never any windows 7 drivers for this Edirol product, However further research has discoverd the information below for a work round

also have the same audio card, bought from ebay this year but have recently upgraded to Win7 64bit from XP home. Luckily after tons of googling I found a forum post on another site by a Spanish guy confirming there is a way to use it on Win 7 both 32/64bit version. You need to download M-Audio drivers (as the original Edirol drivers were also made my M-Audio at the time) for their Delta 1010 soundcard (not the LT version) and point win7 to those drivers as they ARE Win7 compatible, I'm using the 'Windows 7 64bit SP1' v6.0.8 drivers. It does actually work, however the guy reckons that the MIDI functions don't but thats no biggy to me.

Only other way is to buy a Roland RPC 1 PCI card and replace the original Edirol pci card with that but they are rare and expensive but you don't need to because of the 6.0.8 drivers! I get no audio dropouts and the sound is very nice just like on XP.

Edirol Computers... | Answered 2 days ago


Vista is dead, and good riddance. If you want a safe, free, modern operating system, download a nice distro of Linux like Ubuntu, Mint, ZorinOS, Elementary, Solus. Try it on a flash drive or DVD. If you have an old machine, try Lubuntu 32 bit, Puppy or Bodhi. Welcome to the new century.

Edirol Computers... | Answered on Apr 08, 2017


Can you describe the exact nature of problem?

Edirol Computers... | Answered on Sep 13, 2013

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