Question edited for clarity.
It could be many things, failed pump motor, failed mainboard and as you say, the door switch. There are some ideas in the link, but you would be advised to call your local Indesit Service Agent. Try a power cycle reset.
https://www.google.com/search?q=indesit+dishwasher+won%27t+start+but+has+power
..
If your Indesit 6165 washing machine is not responding to the reset button and is only turning off when you unplug it, there could be a problem with the control panel or a fault with one of the internal components. Here are a few steps you can try to troubleshoot the issue:
Unplug the washing machine and leave it unplugged for a few minutes. This will allow any internal components to cool down and reset.
Check the filter to make sure it is not clogged. A clogged filter can cause the washing machine to malfunction.
Check the inlet hose and make sure it is not kinked or bent. A bent or kinked hose can restrict the flow of water and cause problems with the washing machine.
Check the control panel for any loose or damaged wires. If you find any loose or damaged wires, try to secure them or repair them as needed.
Check for any error codes displayed on the control panel. Error codes can help identify the problem with the washing machine and suggest a solution.
You've verified that water is available at the inlet. The owner's manual suggests checking and cleaning the filters (Troubleshooting, page 33). The instructions for doing this are on page 32, linked below. Perhaps the dishwasher loaded up the filters when it didn't have incoming water to flush out the debris at the end of the wash cycle.
If after cleaning everything it still doesn't work, we're back to a burned-out inlet solenoid valve. If you're familiar with electrical equipment, you can disconnect power to the dishwasher, disconnect one or both terminals from the solenoid coil (so other connections in the dishwasher don't interfere with the measurement) and measure the resistance of the coil. If it reads infinite on any range, or more than a million ohms, the electromagnet coil is burned out and the coil or valve assembly will have to be replaced.
Turn off the water to the dishwasher and unplug it. Disconnect the water line to the dishwasher and place it in a bucket. Have somebody turn the water back on until water goes into the bucket (it may spit, then spray hard), then immediately turn the water off. (If there is a shutoff right at the dishwasher, this is a one-person job. If not, you'll have to holler to the person standing by at the main valve.) Reconnect the water line.
This should take care of any vacuum/air lock issues at the inlet; if the dishwasher doesn't see water flow right away, it may be tripping the error signal.
The worst case I can imagine is that the inlet water solenoid valve overheated because it was on for a long time with no water flowing through it. It may be stuck or burned out.
Try cutting the power to the dishwasher (remove the fuse) for about 30 seconds, then when you put the fuse back in, do it quickly and smoothly so you get a clean power-on without a lot of sparking. This may get the dishwasher controller to do a proper hard power-on reset.
If the problem persists, you may have a hardware failure in the controller. The first thing I'd look for is a failing electrolytic capacitor. Sometimes a power on-off cycle finishes them off. Fortunately, the parts are cheap and readily available from online suppliers such as Digi-Key or Mouser. Unfortunately, you have to have electronic component soldering skills to change them. Often, bad capacitors can be visually identified because the top of the capacitor is domed instead of flat, or for smaller units the aluminum casing is partly pushed off of the rubber or plastic base.
Contrast the bad capacitor on the right with the good one next to it on the left.
Contrast the bad capacitor on the right with the good one next to it on the left.
