20 Most Recent Kenwood VR-507 Receiver - Page 2 Questions & Answers

These codes may work:

Depending on the comcast model remote you have: Some require the full 5 digit code while others only use the last four digits.

Codes for Kenwood receivers:

31313 31571 30027 31007

Most Direct, Comcast and COX remotes use the same basic codes either with or without the first digit which is always a 0,1, 2, or 3. (0 for cable boxes, 1 for TVs, 2 for DVDs, 3 for audio amps and receivers)

Hope this helps.

hi,
First of all remove all the speaker connections from the amplifier. After that power the amplifier and check the protect show or not . if not, then any of the speaker is damaged. If then also it shows protect you have to check the amplifiers hardware.

AV receivers shows protect mode , when there is a hardware fault in side it. Its a warning that some thing is wrong.
Normally AV receivers show this when any of the output amplifier get some problem. there are six amplifiers in this AV receiver. May occur when the output diver transistors of any of the amplifier become shorted. if the output transistor get shorted this will lead to flow of current through the speakers. To prevent this there is a protection circuit for each channels. One combined output of this protection circuit is connected to the system control. when the any of the output amplifier fails, the protection circuit detects it and switch of the speaker and sent data to the system control. when the system control get this data it will give a warning to the customer through display that PROTECT.
You have to check the amplifier.
for that you need digital multimeter,soledring iron screwdrivers etc
open the amplifier , then power it on. connect the negative terminal of the multimeter any where in the chase( metal body of the amplifer). then connect the positive terminal to all the output transistors emitter pin one by one . the voltage should be bellow 0.5V. If any of the emitter of the transistor shows voltage more than 0.5V., then that amplifier stage is faulty. Remove the transistors and check it. if it is shot then replace with a new one.
after replacing the transistors do not power up the amplifier directly from the main. You have to put a bulb of 60 watts in serial.
You can do this easily remove the mains fuse. put the bulb in a holder. now you have to wire from the holder. connect one of it to the one end of the fuse holder and the other wire to the other end of the fuse holder. Why using a bulb is, if there is any further problem in the amplifier stage on which the transistors replaced, there is a possibility of the new transistor get damage. if we use a bulb in serial with its mains supply ,when any overload in the amplifier occur the bulb will drop the current, by lighting itself.
After connecting the bulb in serious power on the amplifier. watch the bulb. It should light for one or two second and go dim . if so check the display, is there is protect mode is on or not . if not and come back to normal operation ,then remove the power , remove the bulb insert fuse and check
connect the power and check.
If the bulb shows bright light then there is some component also faulty in the same amplifier. after removing the power you have to check again the amplifier stage of which the transistor is replaced, for any other faulty components.
ok

Mine used to work but I recently moved and think I connected everything the same way, but I'm having the same problem you are now and I'm just curious if you ever solved the issue? For whatever reason, I'm simply not seeing the Dolby Pro Logic, PL Movie, etc. modes. Just the standard Stereo, Arena, Theater, etc. modes. I'm connected to the receiver's optical audio inputs both directly from my cable box and from the TV itself, so I feel like I must just be overlooking something simple.

Mine used to work but I recently moved and think I connected everything the same way, but I'm having the same problem you are now and I'm just curious if you ever solved the issue? For whatever reason, I'm simply not seeing the Dolby Pro Logic, PL Movie, etc. modes. Just the standard Stereo, Arena, Theater, etc. modes. I'm connected to the receiver's optical audio inputs both directly from my cable box and from the TV itself, so I feel like I must just be overlooking something simple.

As for the numbers going up, it's not actually a problem... It's just something about the way DB (decibels) work I think.

Mine used to work but I recently moved and think I connected everything the same way, but I'm having the same problem you are now and I'm just curious if you ever solved the issue? For whatever reason, I'm simply not seeing the Dolby Pro Logic, PL Movie, etc. modes. Just the standard Stereo, Arena, Theater, etc. modes. I'm connected to the receiver's optical audio inputs both directly from my cable box and from the TV itself, so I feel like I must just be overlooking something simple.

Hi WilliamAssuming that you have tried changing the batteries in the remote (and put the batteries in the right way round) then the chances are that your remote control unit has failed.Original Kenwood remotes can be bought here http://kenwoodremote.com/Universal remote controls are widely available in electrical stores and on the internet. You will need to find the right set up code - you should be able to find the code on the same site.

Yes BUT...

The following is some boilerplate I made up that should explain some usage limitations.

Be advised that the engagement of any device in a Tape Monitor loop on a late-model Audio/Video Receiver will effectively tie the receiver down to stereo-only analog sound reproduction. I'll explain.

The connections themselves are fairly simple but it pays to understand what happens in the loop.

In general, any Line-Level external processor (EQ, dynamic range expander, etc) will go into a Tape Monitor loop on a receiver. A Tape Monitor, when engaged, sends the stereo analog signal Out to the Processor, massages it and returns it to the receiver via the Tape Monitor IN connectors to be passed on to the receiver's internal processes (volume, tone, whatever).

Old school analog stereo-only receivers consistently work this way. Newer digital and audio/video receivers introduce a couple of problems: 1) digital sound processing to simulate a variety of soundfields; 2) multiple output channels, either discrete or digitally-generated.

The latter requires that whatever signal is being processed experiences a maximum of one analog-digital-analog conversion.

EVERYTHING analog coming into the modern digital receiver is automatically converted to a digital signal for internal processing unless you choose a STEREO-only or STEREO-Direct setting. Consequently, no further external analog-digital conversions would be allowed if, say, a Tape Monitor circuit was activated, and a possible feedback loop could otherwise be created in a digital-sourced selection (output to its own input), so the unit is wired to treat the Tape Monitor as the first analog step in the process and defeats any pure digital sources.

In a multichannel unit, what would happen to the other channels if you sent ONLY the Front Left & Right out for processing? They would NOT be processed. That logical problem also plays into the decision to defeat digital sources if the Tape Monitor is activated. I don't totally agree with the engineers but that's the way it is. Nature of the digital beast.

Okay, back to the hook-up:

Receiver Tape Out (Rec) - to the External Processor (EQ, whatever) Preamp-, Rec, Line-In;

Receiver Tape In (Play) - from the External Processor (EQ, whatever) Preamp-, Play , Line-Out.

So, to sum up, you can only use the EQ or any outboard processor for analog stereo sources. If you actually want to use an analog recording deck you could place it within the typical Equalizer

Hello,
The answer is yes. The best way to connect it is with a digital audio cable. It can be optical or coaxial, depending on what your source outputs. I wold still recommend running the HDMI to your tv for best video quality.
Good Luck

some of the output transistors providing the power output to the speakers are probably blown

Hi,

You can download and print the instruction manual in PDF format by clicking this link.

Adobe PDF Reader is required to view this manual. Download Adobe Reader

Hope this helps. Kindly let me know if you have any difficulty in downloading the manual.
Thanks for using FixYa.

You can download the user manual for this unit from this link, just click HERE.

If you have tried the reset of the receiver in the owners manual (Holding the Power/Standby switch while simultaneously plugging the receiver power cord in the wall outlet) and that doesn't fix the problem then you are probably discovering that the receiver has a welding problem with the IR sensor pins to the circuit board. Go to this website http://mysite.verizon.net/amp68/ to find the 3 pins that need to be welded. I just did this last night and it works. You can count me as one 5 people that have had success with this fix.

Hi.

If the problem was the fuse, the amp will not power up at all.

You have probably blown the amp final section. The amp final section is located right before the speakers, and it is the circuit that performs the proper amp function.

The most common fault after pumping up the volume too much for a prolonged time is given by the transistors or the ICs in the final failing.

Ifn this situation the amp will not turn on. It will perform the initial checkup in about five or ten seconds, and then it will shut down and go in standby as soon as the fault in the final is detected.

To ensure that the amp is faulty, disconnect the power cord for ten minutes. Check speaker connections, and disconnect speakers and inputs.
Turn volume wheel to the minimum and try turning amp on, do not operate the amp in this state.
If the amp does not go to standby, turn off completely and connect the speakers, ensuring that the speakers wiring is OK.

If the amp is faulty, the repair job is done testing and replacing the components in the final section. Repair must be done by a technician.

You can contact repair service by ringing the phone number listed on the owners manual.

you can find the codes on your universal remote manual

Since this issue is happening with both the original remote and the Harmony remote, it is more then likely a problem with the IR receiver on your device. If I were you I would call the manufacturer if it is still under warranty. Otherwise, someone on here may know how to fix it.

It would be the rare TV that originated anything approaching the sound quality of any other audio source in your home or could process digital multichannel audio anywhere near as well as the Kenwood. What model TV did you say this was? Its internal audio controls could also be part of the problem.

TV-related audio is best derived from as close to its source as possible. Your cable, satellite DVD, BD all have superior digital multichannel audio outputs. Why would you want to filter them through the TV first?

Those sources may also have HDMI which would be great for the TV; they also have standard RCA stereo outputs, each of which could be suitable to run to the TV's RCA inputs if you only want to watch news or weather with lo-fi sound.

Bottom line recommendation: BEST video to the TV; best audio to the Kenwood.