20 Most Recent Vulcan 36L Gas Kitchen Range Questions & Answers

https://my.vulcanfeg.com/resourcecenter/vulcanwolfberkel/ProductDocumentation/F31056.pdf I think the above link may assist you with your question. Some ovens have difficult access to the thermocouple which is pretty much always right next to the pilot burner. Hope this helps.

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Hello,

The problem is from the spark ignitor. Ignitors are wired to an ignition module that produces high voltage required for a spark. It is going bad and need to be replaced.

The wiring for most range ignitors is accessed underneath the oven by removing the pots drawer. Why do you need to access the wiring? so you can measure the current draw and it's part of replacing the ignitor since the new one has to be wired in the same way as the existing one. Take note of where the wires go. The ignitor wires are not polarity-sensitive so don't worry about "reversing" them.

Remove the covering panel to expose all the wires. Clamp-on ammeter on one of the ignitor wires to make a current draw measurement. the minimum acceptable current draw is 3.4 amps, well above what I'm measuring here. Obviously, in order to make this measurement, the oven has to be turned on and the ignitor getting voltage.

you'll need to remove the back panel to get to wiring for one or both ignitors (there's one each for bake and broil). Yes, this means the range needs to be pulled out from the wall. In the case of a wall oven where the engineers didn't bother to make it service-friendly, you'll need to remove the entire wall oven from the cavity. If this is the case with yours, you'll quickly understand why I abhor wall ovens. Sometimes, the head breaks off one of the ignitor retaining screws or, worse yet, the retaining screws are phillips screws and they wallow out on you.

Loose the screw loose using the little channel lock pliers on the threaded of the screw. Then replace the screw with a slightly bigger diameter machine screw with a pointed end and course threads so it cuts itself into the bracket. It ain't gotta be perfect or purdy, all it's gotta do it securely hold the ignitor in position.

you'll need to remove the bake burner tube to allow enough room so you can run the wires for the new ignitor. You'll usually find two screws securing the burner tube: one in back and one in front.

so you just need to connect the new ignitor wires to this harness connector- no need to go all the way back down to the gas valve, like in the bake connector.

You can ask a repairman for assistance if the steps are quite difficult.

Hope this helped.
Goodluck
Elect_Comp

some are fitted with pilot control knobs on front of machine and some you turn the burner tap to low flame position then press it in and light pilot

If you live WAY out in the sticks, all you need is a tank of propane and the reqired fittings,BUT,if you live in the good old suburbs or the city you'd better have the gas company do the job. After all they have to shut off the gas feed to your house anyway. Good luck,Dana

Hi! I have the same problem with one of my burners (I have a morice range). I changed the thermocouple, but it didn´t help. I contacted Morice in France and was told that the problem most sertainly was the coil inside the gasvalve. I don´t know if it possible to dismantle the ovengasvalve to check the coil. As for a burner valve, one should open the valve at the end were the gas goes out to the burner to locate this coil. Best of luck Lars

You should check to be sure your pilot flame is strong and not wavy. This can be caused by the pilot itself being dirty and clogged. The pilot gas orifice is very small and it doesn't take much to disrupt the flame. If this is good and the pilot flame is heating the thermocouple correctly you will need to look at your safety valve. It could be the problem. Be sure not to over tighten thermocouples into the safety valve, they should only be hand tight plus a quarter turn. Any more than that can break the safety and the thermocouple. You should also check the gas pressure, if it is too low or a regulator is not working the pilot can go out when the main burner is turned on (pilot can get starved in low pressure situation). Another item to check is drafts and air movement that could blow the pilot out, since the oven has been there a while this is not likely the cause. I hope this helps. Please take a moment to rate me.

Looking for teh answer to the same problem

some people use stainless steel to insulate the surrounding areas of the ranges

The half inch tubing should be adequate under most circumstances. However, you may run into volume issues while using the oven and a few burners at the same time. If it bothers you, replace it. The door should be flush (or close to it) on the sides and the top. If you have an air gap, check the hinges.

Yes, I am a technician for Hobart, in Michigan. If your burners are uniformly low, and you know it is set up for the fuel you are using, swap out the regulator. You should be able to buy a pre-set regulator, just make sure it is for the correct gas. If you don't feel comfortable, call around. I'm sure someone needs the business.

First, you should make sure the unit is set up to run the type of gas you use. If you have natural gas and it is set up for lpg, or vice versa. If it is wrong, you can retrofit it by changing out the orifices. Other than that, check your pressure at the manifold that feeds the burners to see if it is adequate. A bad regulator could very easily cause this problem as well.

i service these ovens alot and my first guess the t-couple you already replaced.i wouldnt think its the valve.lp burns very dirty as you know,clean out the burner/pilot assmbely and see if this solves it.also take a look at it when its lit and see if the pilot is being pulled to the burner.let me know.also if the unit has a regulator on the back pull the vent plug and clean it up.