20 Most Recent Philips DVP642 DVD Player Questions & Answers


Try searching the net for 'region code hack' for your model number. You can try on Fixya too, this time just put the above. If anyone knows it you should get a reply.

Philips DVP642... | Answered on Nov 12, 2018


Those blinks [flashes] are fault indication (Error Codes). From the number of blinks occur at one time switch ON, you can get an idea about the faulty circuit section inside it. This will make repair easy. These are called blinking codes. Make sure about the exact number of blinking of the standby/power LED, by switching On & OFF the set, for at least two times. Count it carefully. If you wish to get some details, check the site linked here. It has details about blinking codes, and fault locating procedure, to many popular brand TVs and other devices.
http://electro-medical.blogspot.com/
http://homenol.blogspot.com/
http://electronicshelponline.blogspot.com/
If blinks continue without any pause, the main board is faulty.

Philips DVP642... | Answered on Apr 21, 2017


my dvd player is stand on the red light when i insert the dvd the dvd will hand after few seconds what is the problem please solved my problem

Philips DVP642... | Answered on Jan 10, 2016


Hi, you should use a capacitor with same capacitance of 1000uF, but you don't have to stick to the original voltage spec. 1000uF 10V means it can withstand 10V load. 1000uF 50V means it can hold 50V for the same capacitance. Today I fixed my friend's and for that I used 1000uF 35V from RadioShack. It perfectly works - and it's better. But you shouldn't use 1000uF 5V - by now you already know that :)

Philips DVP642... | Answered on Mar 09, 2015


have you tried to record in sp then playback on same machine if this works then your drum for recording in lp or if yours has ep mode may need replacing as pre recordings are ok you need to get it serviced. hope this goes well

Philips DVP642... | Answered on Jan 14, 2014


Check that you have the right input on DVD

Philips DVP642... | Answered on Nov 07, 2013


Sounds like the laser head to me.

Philips DVP642... | Answered on Jun 21, 2013


Here is the solution. This is a common problem with this player.

Common DVP 642 problem (only problem with a great player): They die,
and you have a blinking red power button.

This is actually surprisingly easy to fix. It's really easier than I
make it look, but I'm just being really clear in case anyone reading
this has never seen a soldering iron before. Here are the steps I did
(and note that, if you're still under warranty, this will void your
warranty). The decision to try this is up to your own discretion
and may be a last ditch effort before throwing the player away.

Short version: Check the board to see if capacitor C316 is bulging. If
so, get a 1000u capacitor >=16V and replace it.

Long version:

1. Unplug everything
2. Unscrew the side and rear screws to remove the top cover.
3. On the board where the power cable goes in, look for a capacitor
(looks like a little drum with a '+' on the
top) that is bulging upward either a little or a lot. It may be
leaking some brown fluid as well.
4. I'm betting that the writing on the board at this location says
'C316'. If you google 'dvp642' and 'c316', you'll get hundreds of hits...
5. If that's the case, you'll need to find a capacitor and a soldering
iron. Visit radio shack or similar electronics
place and buy an elecrolytic capacitor that says 1000u (the 'u' is
actually a lower case greek 'mu') with a
voltage greater than or equal to 16v (this is not calculated: it's
simply what others have reported success with.
I couldn't find one and used a 35V one instead). You should be able to
find one that looks somewhat similar to
the damaged one (it might be a little bigger or smaller, but you'll
want the same basic shape). This should cost less than $2.
6. Borrow or buy a cheap soldering iron and some solder. I borrowed
one from a friend at work...this is NOT
my area of expertise, so don't worry about the difficulty!
7. Now the tricky part: back on your DVD player, you need to get that
board out. Unplug the two cables
connecting to the board we're working on, unscrew the screws holding
it down, and, using some pliers, hold
down the wings of the little plastic piece that is still holding the
board down and slide the board up. I flipped
this around to get at the bottom while leaving the power cord in
place.
8. Heat up the soldering iron. Locate the spot on the bottom of the
board where the C316 capacitor is attached.
Remove your new capacitor from the package. There should be one
shorter leg which is the negative side. It
will likely be marked this way as well.
9. One side of the capacitor should have a ' -' on it. Note which side
this is. You may not be able to see it until it
is removed, so be aware of needing to know this as you remove it.
10. After it is warm enough to melt solder, lay the soldering iron
across the joints you identified as belonging to
C316. Tug gently on C316 as you do this and it should soon come free.
This is a little tricky to hold the iron,
the board, and the capacitor all at once, so please don't burn
yourself! Again, note which side is negative and
which hole it came from. This is the negative hole, and the other is
positive. There will likely be some solder
left over around each hole. Just try not to let it run between the two
holes or you will short out the connection.
11. Grab your new capacitor and line up the longer leg with the
positive hole. Lay the soldering iron against
that hole on the other side and push the leg through. Line up the
negative leg/hole and repeat. Lay the iron
across both to heat up enough to push the capacitor legs through and
the capacitor down to the board.
12. Check the connections for each leg. There should be a small *****
of solder joining each leg to the metal
of the board, but not running to any other point of the board. If it's
run to some other points, you'll need to do
some searching to see how to clean up it up a little bit as I'm not an
expert at this. If you need a little more
solder, lay the iron across the joint for a few seconds, then feed
your solder into the hot spot until a small
amount flows over the joint. Remove the iron, wait a moment, then
remove the solder. Look at the other
solder joints on the board for a rough idea of how it should look.
13. Use some wire cutters to trim the legs down to the solder.
14. Pop the board back over the plastic piece and reconnect the cables.
15. At this point, you're on your own. Personally, I made sure I
wasn't touching any metal and plugged it in.
Since I didn't blow any fuses and the player seemed to work, I
unplugged it, reassembled it, and went to watch a movie.

Philips DVP642... | Answered on Jan 30, 2013


Here is the solution. This is a common problem with this player.

Common DVP 642 problem (only problem with a great player): They die,
and you have a blinking red power button.

This is actually surprisingly easy to fix. It's really easier than I
make it look, but I'm just being really clear in case anyone reading
this has never seen a soldering iron before. Here are the steps I did
(and note that, if you're still under warranty, this will void your
warranty). The decision to try this is up to your own discretion
and may be a last ditch effort before throwing the player away.

Short version: Check the board to see if capacitor C316 is bulging. If
so, get a 1000u capacitor >=16V and replace it.

Long version:

1. Unplug everything
2. Unscrew the side and rear screws to remove the top cover.
3. On the board where the power cable goes in, look for a capacitor
(looks like a little drum with a '+' on the
top) that is bulging upward either a little or a lot. It may be
leaking some brown fluid as well.
4. I'm betting that the writing on the board at this location says
'C316'. If you google 'dvp642' and 'c316', you'll get hundreds of hits...
5. If that's the case, you'll need to find a capacitor and a soldering
iron. Visit radio shack or similar electronics
place and buy an elecrolytic capacitor that says 1000u (the 'u' is
actually a lower case greek 'mu') with a
voltage greater than or equal to 16v (this is not calculated: it's
simply what others have reported success with.
I couldn't find one and used a 35V one instead). You should be able to
find one that looks somewhat similar to
the damaged one (it might be a little bigger or smaller, but you'll
want the same basic shape). This should cost less than $2.
6. Borrow or buy a cheap soldering iron and some solder. I borrowed
one from a friend at work...this is NOT
my area of expertise, so don't worry about the difficulty!
7. Now the tricky part: back on your DVD player, you need to get that
board out. Unplug the two cables
connecting to the board we're working on, unscrew the screws holding
it down, and, using some pliers, hold
down the wings of the little plastic piece that is still holding the
board down and slide the board up. I flipped
this around to get at the bottom while leaving the power cord in
place.
8. Heat up the soldering iron. Locate the spot on the bottom of the
board where the C316 capacitor is attached.
Remove your new capacitor from the package. There should be one
shorter leg which is the negative side. It
will likely be marked this way as well.
9. One side of the capacitor should have a ' -' on it. Note which side
this is. You may not be able to see it until it
is removed, so be aware of needing to know this as you remove it.
10. After it is warm enough to melt solder, lay the soldering iron
across the joints you identified as belonging to
C316. Tug gently on C316 as you do this and it should soon come free.
This is a little tricky to hold the iron,
the board, and the capacitor all at once, so please don't burn
yourself! Again, note which side is negative and
which hole it came from. This is the negative hole, and the other is
positive. There will likely be some solder
left over around each hole. Just try not to let it run between the two
holes or you will short out the connection.
11. Grab your new capacitor and line up the longer leg with the
positive hole. Lay the soldering iron against
that hole on the other side and push the leg through. Line up the
negative leg/hole and repeat. Lay the iron
across both to heat up enough to push the capacitor legs through and
the capacitor down to the board.
12. Check the connections for each leg. There should be a small *****
of solder joining each leg to the metal
of the board, but not running to any other point of the board. If it's
run to some other points, you'll need to do
some searching to see how to clean up it up a little bit as I'm not an
expert at this. If you need a little more
solder, lay the iron across the joint for a few seconds, then feed
your solder into the hot spot until a small
amount flows over the joint. Remove the iron, wait a moment, then
remove the solder. Look at the other
solder joints on the board for a rough idea of how it should look.
13. Use some wire cutters to trim the legs down to the solder.
14. Pop the board back over the plastic piece and reconnect the cables.
15. At this point, you're on your own. Personally, I made sure I
wasn't touching any metal and plugged it in.
Since I didn't blow any fuses and the player seemed to work, I
unplugged it, reassembled it, and went to watch a movie.

Philips DVP642... | Answered on Dec 27, 2012


Hi,
It sounds optical laser lens is dirty and need cleaning.
Put lens cleaning disc in player and press play, disc will spin and might clean lens to solve the issue.
If that does not fix the problem, unplug player from wall socket, take off top cover and clean lens with good quality cotton bud gently and then check does it play disc. If problem still exist then optical lens got defective and need to be replaced. Local tv repair shop will replace it but replacement would cost you much.
Hope these info will help you.
Thanks.

Philips DVP642... | Answered on Apr 28, 2012

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